Engine Mount Replacement

[bmw540san]

On the other hand here it shows no need to loosen the subframe:
https://www.pelicanparts.com/techart...eplacement.htm
I was going to attack mine today but I won't have time it seems. This procedure seems less involved but It looks a bit tight to get them out.

[Overboost]

Originally Posted by bmw540san

On the other hand here it shows no need to loosen the subframe:
https://www.pelicanparts.com/techart...eplacement.htm
I was going to attack mine today but I won't have time it seems. This procedure seems less involved but It looks a bit tight to get them out.

Well that looks a lot easier than it probably is but I am just trying to prepare for the worst. That article is also for a M62 so it may be different for a M54 but we will see.

My HF engine support bar came in and a test fit does show it will fit across the front if I only support the support bracket in the front by the vanos and PS reservoir. I looked for one in the rear but isn't very evident where it might be. I wonder if the transmission mounts would support the rear and allow me to simply support the front?

[Fifty150hs]

Originally Posted by Overboost

Well that looks a lot easier than it probably is but I am just trying to prepare for the worst. That article is also for a M62 so it may be different for a M54 but we will see.

My HF engine support bar came in and a test fit does show it will fit across the front if I only support the support bracket in the front by the vanos and PS reservoir. I looked for one in the rear but isn't very evident where it might be. I wonder if the transmission mounts would support the rear and allow me to simply support the front?

Nice. Good to know it fits. From my reading, I think only the front of the engine needs to be lifted, that support should work. The rear lifting point is back by the bell housing if I recall correctly.

[Auto Parts Guy]

Yeah i think the front lift point is enough for this job. But I'm with you, i would prepare to lower the subframe. Just read the comments in that Pelican article.

So, are you installing new bolts or just the mounts?

[Overboost]

And all in. So freaking easy I can't believe I was so nervous about replacing them. The HF support bar works perfect on the 3.0L on the single bracket up front only. In short once the engine is lifted, you need another .25"-.5" additional clearance to get the studs of the mounts clear from the brackets once the mounts are moved out of the pockets on the subframe.

On the right side I just loosened the bracket from the engine and that one came right out. Pull it out towards the front.

On the left side I just loosened the 3 subframe mounting bolts on the left and didn't even touch the 3 on the right side. I flexed the left side down a little with a pry bar and the mount came right out. Pull it out to the rear.

Since the job took 2 hours from raising the X to having it sitting back on new mounts, and the reinforcement plate is out I am going to replace the oil level sensor I ordered previously so off to the auto parts store to get some oil and a filter.

I'll edit the steps in this thread:

• Raise the X and remove front wheels
• Remove fresh air intake housing then air filter housing with MAF and upper intake hose together
• Loosen the fan shroud from the 3 plastic rivets at the top so the fan will not bind on the housing when the engine is lifted
• Remove front lower splash shield
• Remove reinforcement plate
• Remove the 2 bolts and one nut from the right side mount
• Remove the 2 bolts and one nut from the left side mount
• Place HF engine support as pictured
• Start raising engine slowly with a floorjack and wood or rubber pads on the front edge of the oil pan, paying close attention and following with the HF engine support bar. Raise it until axles are just touching the main frame rails
• Loosen the right side engine mount bracket from the engine (I took 3 of the 4 bolts all the way out and loosened the 4th to allow the bracket to pivot)
• Remove mount and replace mount and realign the bracket on to the engine and tighten the bolts back to the engine along with starting the engine mount torx bolts
• Loosen 3 main subframe bolts on the left side, pry the center mount point by the engine mount and remove mount. Replace new mount and get the engine mount torx bolts started
• Tighten subframe bolts back on the left side
• Lower engine back down 5mm at a time checking alignment on the main mount bolts through the brackets
• Engine is now sitting on new mounts
• Tighten the 4 engine mount torx bolts (2 each side) and the main mounting nuts on the mounts. (1 each side)
• Reinstall the lower reinforcement plate and front lower splash shield
• Reinstall fan shroud and air filter housing with MAF and upper intake boot
• Reinstall fresh air intake housing
• Lower X and start it up and have a beer

[Fifty150hs]

Thanks for the write up and photos Overboost. You made my work a lot easier. Just so I'm clear, you removed the engine mount brackets from the engine and subframe and made the engine mount swap on the bench? That's what Bentley and Newtis suggest. I was concerned reading that, that it was going to turn into a cluster. If I'm reading you right it's not a big deal?

I have a new oil level sensor to put in as well.

Now the controversial question, reuse or new stiffening plate bolts? =O

[Overboost]

Originally Posted by Fifty150hs

Thanks for the write up and photos Overboost. You made my work a lot easier. Just so I'm clear, you removed the engine mount brackets from the engine and subframe and made the engine mount swap on the bench? That's what Bentley and Newtis suggest. I was concerned reading that, that it was going to turn into a cluster. If I'm reading you right it's not a big deal?

I have a new oil level sensor to put in as well.

Now the controversial question, reuse or new stiffening plate bolts? =O

I loosened the bracket from engine only on right side. Easily accessible. I did not remove it totally from the engine, only removed 3 of the 4 bolts and loosened the 4th so that it would rotate and clear the stud on the mount to remove and install the mount itself.

Left side engine mount bracket is impossible to loosen or remove because of all the CCV and intake mainifold hoses in that area so lowering the subframe .5" got me what I needed to remove the mount.

It was very easy for me, I can't believe I was dreading this work but from all the other engines, it may not be this easy. 3.0L is a piece of cake, even easier than the E46.

[wpoll]

No vacuum lines on the engine mounts?

I guess that's a diesel thing then...

[Overboost]

Originally Posted by wpoll

No vacuum lines on the engine mounts?

I guess that's a diesel thing then...

Vacuum lines running to the engine mounts??? Post up a picture when you get a chance, I have never heard of that before, ever. What on earth do they do???

Anyway finished up the oil level sensor, oil change and oil filter and took it for a drive. The vibration at idle is completely gone. No more rattles from items in the console or items in the door panel pockets and the feel of the steering wheel is perfect.

And no, I reused the reinforcement plate hardware without a second thought.

[wpoll]

Originally Posted by Overboost

Vacuum lines running to the engine mounts??? Post up a picture when you get a chance, I have never heard of that before, ever. What on earth do they do???...

The engine mounts on the M57 engines (all models) are vacuum controlled - they can be "hard" or "soft" and are under the control of the DDE via pressure regulators.

From the TIS...

Engine mount control
The controllable engine mounts are switched to ”hard” or ”soft” corresponding to operating conditions.

Function
The pressure converter connects the engine mounts to the vacuum supply. When activated by the DDE master control unit, the pressure converter switches vacuum to the engine mounts which in turn switch to ”soft”.

The engine mounts are activated at:

- low speeds (under around 60 km/h) and
- below engine speeds that are dependent on the coolant temperature (the engine speeds are between 1000 rpm and 1200 rpm)

Troubleshooting
If a defect occurs in the activation of the pressure converter, a fault is stored.

The engine mount control is switched off if one of the following faults occurs:

- ”Driving speed signal”
- ”Coolant-temperature sensor”