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#11
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2006 Infiniti G35 2001 BMW 3.0I E53 X5 Build date 08/2000 SOLD Lotus Europa 1970 Destroyed by fire Lotus Europa 1970 S2 Renault Powered Lotus Type 52 1970 Twincam Webers Powered PORSCHE 911 Targa 1982 The Garage Queen Audi Avant donated to Kars for Kids BMW 525IT Sold Audi 4000CS Quattro Sold Jensen Healey Lotus Powered Sold Opel 1900 Sold Triumph Spitfire 1971 Sold Triumph Spitfire 1968 Sold Plymouth "Cuda" 340 Six pack SOLD |
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#12
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2006 Infiniti G35 2001 BMW 3.0I E53 X5 Build date 08/2000 SOLD Lotus Europa 1970 Destroyed by fire Lotus Europa 1970 S2 Renault Powered Lotus Type 52 1970 Twincam Webers Powered PORSCHE 911 Targa 1982 The Garage Queen Audi Avant donated to Kars for Kids BMW 525IT Sold Audi 4000CS Quattro Sold Jensen Healey Lotus Powered Sold Opel 1900 Sold Triumph Spitfire 1971 Sold Triumph Spitfire 1968 Sold Plymouth "Cuda" 340 Six pack SOLD |
#13
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Time. You will also need time. Every time i work on troubleshooting the X5 it takes 4 times longer that i expect it to take. Then shipping the parts time. Oops, I forgot that there will be a $5 absolutely required part or tool that is undoubtably on back order. Then time doing the actual repair. Maybe patience is a better word for this.
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#14
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With the multitude of issues you have with your X, I would approach each one methodically.
Start with the fail safe modes. This is usually a voltage problem within the system. I would connect a multimeter to the battery voltage where you can see it while driving. If it is around 12V or lower when driving instead of 14.5V, the system will throw the fail safe modes. If you do have a low voltage issue, check your power steering reservoir and make sure it is not leaking from the hoses beneath it, they will leak directly on the alternator on the 3.0L and cause problems with charging. Next, replace that broken MAF sensor and replace any obvious broken vacuum hoses, then clear all those codes and see what comes back. Take each problem and solve them one at a time, as others have mentioned, we have a plethora of knowledge here and can help.
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Digital Competition Systems The older I get... The faster I was... No Fear Last edited by Overboost; 01-29-2020 at 08:51 PM. |
#15
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#16
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So many things are wrong, I will try to go at them one by one. I did lots of testing today. After coming home from work connected the car to INPA and played around for a bit. Obviously the battery drained a bit with the key in the run position. I found.it weird that I could only scan the engine and transmission. Engine: Transmission: Somehow all the other modules were inaccessible: After scanning everything, I moved on to the voltage. INPA was showing the voltage around 11.7 and the instrument cluster 11.6. I checked with the multimeter and it showed 11.8 I think I trust the multimeter the most. I remember when I fully charged the battery 2 days ago, it showed 12.9v charged, and 13.9 with car running. 11.8 is kinda low, but if I turn the key off from "on" position, the voltage will go up. So next I mounted my multimeter to the rear seat and connected the probes to the battery. Whe I was driving the car, the voltage would be around 13.9 volts. With everything on (heat, high beams, radio, wipers, low beams etc.) the voltage was about 13.8v the whole time. The car glitched as always, but the voltage didn't jump around like on vehicles with a bad alternator. After I drove around for half an hour (city+highway), I came and and parked the car. While running, the voltage was 14v. When I turned it off, voltage was 12.68 So it doesn't look like I have an issue with either the battery or the alternator, does it? |
#17
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I went to the store and got a hose, the only one they had was a fuel hose. Because it was super ridig, I couldn't stretch it and used a good piece of the old hose to connect it to the back (there's suction at that port when the car is running).
I tried to take the best picture I could. Blue hose is the new one I installed. I'm not sure what that hose is exactly. I tried looking on realoem but couldn't find it In any case I've connected it back I found another hose, it has no suction when the car is running. I have no clue where it's supposed to.go either Did a test of the cluster panel. Don't E53 have check engine light at all? |
#18
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that last rigid pipe with the hook in it is your front differential breather. Just leave it alone, nothing connects to it. Yes, when you first turn the key on, the "check engine" light should come on. Very common for someone to take cluster apart and disable. If you have INPA, you need to clear ALL faults and start over. There could be years of stored codes in there, you need to start with a clean slate. Your hacked wiring could be stopping you from accessing modules. HENCE our advice to fix any wiring that you know of asap.
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Dave S. Northeast 2003 4.6is 2005 E53 4.4 2003 E39 Msport(a REAL ONE!) 1959 Fiat 600 |
#19
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(The DDE and AGS are on one K-Line connection; all the other modules are on the other K-Line connection)
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Wayne 2005 BMW X5 3.0d (b 02/05) 2001 BMW F650GS Dakar (b 06/01) |
#20
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Can a cracked OBD2 block like I had allow him a partial scan?
I only bring it up since I was getting intermittent readings then no communication messages at that time.. Sent from my SM-A730F using Tapatalk
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"When the Team Chief said.... You're trapped in a hole with nothing but a goat and a slinky, what do you do? Stubby said, I'm not sure but it won't end well for the goat...." ~(Overheard) Last day, Phase 3, Q Course |
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