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  #31  
Old 02-03-2020, 05:32 AM
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Yes things are moving along quite well
I didn't find any obvious problems with with the fuel lines by the rear wheel well


I guess I'll replace the fuel pump seal with a brand new one because the seller said he changed the fuel pump but used the old seal. There's no smell as long as I don't fill over 3/4 of the tank.
If the fuel pump seal doesn't fix the issue, I will fill it up all the way and start looking for a leak...I guess it's definitely not the fuel lines underneath the car, because the smell would be there regardless of how much I fill the tank.
Interestingly, the seller had told me that if I fill the car up until a "click", the gasoline will overflow from the filler neck...
That's a weird glitch

For now I rewired licence plate lights, they work excellent now, no error.

I also fixed the brake lining error by connecting together two wires on each brake wear indicator.
This thread shows pictures of what happens when the light goes off in the dashboard.
https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/...warning-3.html
Next time I do the brakes, I will put in new sensors.

So far I only have 3 errors left on the dashboard:
- Transmission prog fail (because of the MAF sensor, still looking for one)
- Rear brake and rear lights (those will be tricky to fix I suspect. The seller was way better with electricity than I am and he could not fix the issue so he wired the left tail lights directly from the right.

I also realized that my parking sensors don't work. Actually I didn't even know that this car had them.
Hopefully I just need to replace the 2 that don't make the humming noise.
I'm really impressed by the technology of this car from 18 years ago!
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  #32  
Old 02-03-2020, 08:35 AM
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Check to see if he just failed on the tank sender seal. Seal should be placed in the tank first and THEN slide the sender into the seal. Also, make sure he got the ring screwed down all the way.
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  #33  
Old 02-03-2020, 10:14 AM
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Picture #4 That zip tie looks like it will wear into the hose since there's no padded separator between lines.

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  #34  
Old 02-03-2020, 01:24 PM
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  #35  
Old 02-03-2020, 02:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bmwe5320023.0 View Post

- Rear brake and rear lights (those will be tricky to fix I suspect. The seller was way better with electricity than I am and he could not fix the issue so he wired the left tail lights directly from the right.
Look at the metal on back on bad rear light. Are there scorch marks on the metal board where the light bulbs attach/connect?

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  #36  
Old 02-03-2020, 03:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Clockwork View Post
Look at the metal on back on bad rear light. Are there scorch marks on the metal board where the light bulbs attach/connect?

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Yeah, this is a very common problem.



BMW issued a fix process for it over a decade ago... I repaired mine using solder on both parts, the metal frame and the lamp holders.

Have a read of this (old) thread - covers it pretty well. It's worth reading right through....

https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/...ation-fix.html
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  #37  
Old 02-04-2020, 11:44 PM
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I know the previous owner upgraded the tail lights, he said it solves the problem with them. Since I never had an X5, I didnt know exactly what he was talking about.
But looks like this is what you guys are referring to. I will show the wiring and tail lights once I resolve the fuel issue. I think he said he needed to change the connectors. He said that there was something with the wires going to the headlights, so he wasn't sure if it was the light control module or what.

I tackled the fuel seal today. There was some fuel on top, which I found weird, and I'm not sure where it came from. I didn't see anything obvious, but I replaced the seal and went for a drive. The old seal seemed fine and there were some connectors. I think the biggest one was maybe for a subwoofer and the other 2 I'm not sure.

My car had about 1/4 of the tank and just died while I was driving. Pushed on the Schrader valve, barely any fuel coming out.
I pulled to the side, luckily wasn't far from a fuel pump.
I went and bought a jerry can with 20l of fuel. Added the fuel to almost half tank and it started fine.
At this point I'm thinking maybe the syphon pump is toast. I scanned it roadside with a cheap scanner and got the MAF error (already ordered it) and P0455 EVAP Emission Control System Leak.
I drove to a store and parked for 2 minutes. Came back, won't start again, just cranking. If it starts, rpm is super low and dies fast.
Went to the pump again and got another 20l. Fueled up, and the car started fine. Now I'm 3/4 full.
Drove to the gas pump and added more fuel to see if the smell will come back. I think I miscalculated and didn't add it quite all the way full, so it was about 90-95%.
Started the car and put it in drive, the car's rpm went to almost 0, and it was driving like 1 km per hour but didn't die. The battery light also came on for some reason. After about 20 seconds of this the rpm went up and then worked fine.
I just parked on the parking lot and let it idle for half an hour.
Then turned off the car for a bit. Tried to start it again, no go. Well the fuel tank was full, so not much else to do...
It looks like the fuel pump died on me cuz I removed it to replace the seal...


Last edited by Bmwe5320023.0; 02-05-2020 at 12:42 AM.
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  #38  
Old 02-04-2020, 11:47 PM
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Originally Posted by EODguy View Post
Picture #4 That zip tie looks like it will wear into the hose since there's no padded separator between lines.

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Thanks I'll check that but it wasn't tight at all.
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  #39  
Old 02-05-2020, 02:08 AM
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Disregard the pump...took it apart, bench tested the hell out of it, turned out one of the contacts was bad!
Off to the pump to fill up all the way.
EVAP code is gone for now
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  #40  
Old 02-05-2020, 02:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bmwe5320023.0 View Post
Disregard the pump...took it apart, bench tested the hell out of it, turned out one of the contacts was bad!
Off to the pump to fill up all the way.
EVAP code is gone for now


You can see here either the previous owner or yourself has installed two incorrect clamps on the fuel lines. The fuel hose for sure now is damaged and deformed. Using a worm gear clamp is unsafe to use on fuel lines. Many accident investigations have traced fires and deaths due to these clamps because they deform and damage the hose and loosen over time.

You need to get the ear clamp style kit and use the correct sized clamp.
Last weekend I removed my fuel pump assembly and fuel level assembly to clean and test the resistance tracks on the float sensor. You can also get small fuel-hose clamps to press against the fuel hose about 2 inches from the end in order to keep the backed-up fuel from spilling onto the pump when removed. I would also see if you can cut the last inch of deformed hose from the line if there's slack available to install it on the hose nipple to the fuel sender assembly.

I believe the clamp size is 12.8-15.3 mm.
clamp kit https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
hose pliers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QKYBV8Q..._47LoEbWBQ670N

Once the clamps are installed they are semi-permanent, give the hose a twist and pull to make sure there's no movement of the hose after installation. The clamps have to be removed with a small air grinder cut-off wheel usually. The other removal method is to pry up the end of the open side of the clamp but takes longer.
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Last edited by aureliusmax; 02-05-2020 at 02:33 AM.
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