Just bought my first X5. New challenge to make it run:)

[upallnight]

Originally Posted by Bmwe5320023.0

Haha dude I think you're over reacting
The wiring at this point I don't really care about...
What I need to figure out is why it goes into limp mode.
ICV and throttle body were pretty clean and unobstructed!
There was one little wire broken on the MAF sensor (maybe I broke it while taking it out) and there is some small hose that's all brittle. Not sure what has hose is for.
So at this point I don't understand what the issue is.
I'm leaning toward replacing the throttle body because OBDII is giving me so many throttle body related errors and there's nothing that I can see visually.

For a Noob to come on this form with your attitude you'll be lucky if anyone offer to help you. Just saying, from someone who been on this forum for a really long time.

[upallnight]

Originally Posted by CapeX5

I have a feeling that I know how this is going to go end up. I will try to be nice. You have a plethora of talented people here who will attempt to guide you-but only to a certain extent. Many of us have been messing with these for a long time and are willing to share our experience. But, if you just want to go about this like fixing a 1978 camaro, I am out. You need specific tools for these cars, i.e. software/scanners. These are not expensive. And I will warn you, just throwing parts at this will empty your wallet quickly and you will not have accomplished anything. Enough said-carry on....

[///Monster123]

Time. You will also need time. Every time i work on troubleshooting the X5 it takes 4 times longer that i expect it to take. Then shipping the parts time. Oops, I forgot that there will be a $5 absolutely required part or tool that is undoubtably on back order. Then time doing the actual repair. Maybe patience is a better word for this.

[Overboost]

With the multitude of issues you have with your X, I would approach each one methodically.

Start with the fail safe modes. This is usually a voltage problem within the system. I would connect a multimeter to the battery voltage where you can see it while driving. If it is around 12V or lower when driving instead of 14.5V, the system will throw the fail safe modes. If you do have a low voltage issue, check your power steering reservoir and make sure it is not leaking from the hoses beneath it, they will leak directly on the alternator on the 3.0L and cause problems with charging.

Next, replace that broken MAF sensor and replace any obvious broken vacuum hoses, then clear all those codes and see what comes back. Take each problem and solve them one at a time, as others have mentioned, we have a plethora of knowledge here and can help.

[Bmwe5320023.0]

Originally Posted by ///Monster123

Time. You will also need time. Every time i work on troubleshooting the X5 it takes 4 times longer that i expect it to take. Then shipping the parts time. Oops, I forgot that there will be a $5 absolutely required part or tool that is undoubtably on back order. Then time doing the actual repair. Maybe patience is a better word for this.

Totally willing to spend the time needed and buy the tools / parts I'm more curious about all issues than anything else. Hopefully once I figure it all out it will help someone with similar issues. I've googled lots but didn't really find anything.

[Bmwe5320023.0]

Originally Posted by Overboost

With the multitude of issues you have with your X, I would approach each one methodically.

Start with the fail safe modes. This is usually a voltage problem within the system. I would connect a multimeter to the battery voltage where you can see it while driving. If it is around 12V or lower when driving instead of 14.5V, the system will throw the fail safe modes. If you do have a low voltage issue, check your power steering reservoir and make sure it is not leaking from the hoses beneath it, they will leak directly on the alternator on the 3.0L and cause problems with charging.

Next, replace that broken MAF sensor and replace any obvious broken vacuum hoses, then clear all those codes and see what comes back. Take each problem and solve them one at a time, as others have mentioned, we have a plethora of knowledge here and can help.

Exactly my thoughts!
So many things are wrong, I will try to go at them one by one.
I did lots of testing today.
After coming home from work connected the car to INPA and played around for a bit. Obviously the battery drained a bit with the key in the run position.

I found.it weird that I could only scan the engine and transmission.

Engine:


Transmission:


Somehow all the other modules were inaccessible:


After scanning everything, I moved on to the voltage. INPA was showing the voltage around 11.7 and the instrument cluster 11.6.
I checked with the multimeter and it showed 11.8
I think I trust the multimeter the most.
I remember when I fully charged the battery 2 days ago, it showed 12.9v charged, and 13.9 with car running.
11.8 is kinda low, but if I turn the key off from "on" position, the voltage will go up.

So next I mounted my multimeter to the rear seat and connected the probes to the battery.
Whe I was driving the car, the voltage would be around 13.9 volts. With everything on (heat, high beams, radio, wipers, low beams etc.) the voltage was about 13.8v the whole time. The car glitched as always, but the voltage didn't jump around like on vehicles with a bad alternator.
After I drove around for half an hour (city+highway), I came and and parked the car. While running, the voltage was 14v. When I turned it off, voltage was 12.68


So it doesn't look like I have an issue with either the battery or the alternator, does it?

[Bmwe5320023.0]

I went to the store and got a hose, the only one they had was a fuel hose. Because it was super ridig, I couldn't stretch it and used a good piece of the old hose to connect it to the back (there's suction at that port when the car is running).
I tried to take the best picture I could.
Blue hose is the new one I installed.
I'm not sure what that hose is exactly.
I tried looking on realoem but couldn't find it

In any case I've connected it back


I found another hose, it has no suction when the car is running. I have no clue where it's supposed to.go either


Did a test of the cluster panel.
Don't E53 have check engine light at all?

[CapeX5]

that last rigid pipe with the hook in it is your front differential breather. Just leave it alone, nothing connects to it. Yes, when you first turn the key on, the "check engine" light should come on. Very common for someone to take cluster apart and disable. If you have INPA, you need to clear ALL faults and start over. There could be years of stored codes in there, you need to start with a clean slate. Your hacked wiring could be stopping you from accessing modules. HENCE our advice to fix any wiring that you know of asap.

[wpoll]

Originally Posted by Bmwe5320023.0

... I found.it weird that I could only scan the engine and transmission. ...

This is usually caused by the lack of connection to the second diagnostic bus. The OBD adapater cable you use for INPA must have pin 7 & 8 connected together to read data from both K-Line buses - many cheap OBD cables don't have these pins connected together.

(The DDE and AGS are on one K-Line connection; all the other modules are on the other K-Line connection)

[EODguy]

Can a cracked OBD2 block like I had allow him a partial scan?

I only bring it up since I was getting intermittent readings then no communication messages at that time..

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