Locked out

[Jerd]

I know this has been mentioned a few times, and I can't find it for the life of me. My wife's 2002 X5 3.0 driver side door lock failed. The key rotates left and right but nothing happens. She called the tow company and his failure to get the car unlocked resulted her bashing in the rear door window. I have read many threads about how to get around this, but she had tons of food in the car that was thawing out, and it was raining outside. SHe wasnt waiting on a fix.



We have a new window and tumbler rebuild parts and all that jazz, but I now have questions.



The video we found on rebuilding the tumbler has us a tumbler that will now only turn in one direction. We've had it in and out of the car several times. Is there a writeup that clearly explains the process?


Also, for the future, how do I obtain entry into the car if this happens in the again? Ive seen lots of mention of this alternate method, and obviously I understand why it shouldn't be public due to security concerns, but this has turned into a frustrating adventure to say the least. Id much rather her not break a window in the event that she cannot unlock her car next time.

[e39_touring]

Insert key, pull door handle, and turn key ccw (I think) while still pulling door handle.

[cn90]

You probably need a new door actuator.

[Effduration]

It sounds like you're using a valet key without buttons? If so, get a key with the (fob) remote door opener. that way you could have opened any door and rear hatch? Am I missing something?

[Jerd]

Originally Posted by Effduration

It sounds like you're using a valet key without buttons? If so, get a key with the (fob) remote door opener. that way you could have opened any door and rear hatch? Am I missing something?

Oh yeah, crap. I didnt mention the fob battery is dead, and I havent gotten around to replacing that. Looking forward to it actually.


So she was using the regular key, but it was dead.

[Effduration]

Originally Posted by Jerd

Oh yeah, crap. I didnt mention the fob battery is dead, and I havent gotten around to replacing that. Looking forward to it actually.
So she was using the regular key, but it was dead.

You don't usually change the battery in these fobs. They are continually charged in the ignition. You will likely need to buy a new one from the dealer.

Most dealers charge $225-275. The best price from an online dealer is:

https://www.thebmwminipartstore.com/

$168 delivered. You will need to send them proof of ownership.

[cn90]

- Battery for BMW Fob: search ebay for "BMW Varta battery".
About $7.

- Video is below:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sU6uHDV3-mI

[upallnight]

If you never replace the battery in a BMW FOB better to send it in to a guy that can replace it without damaging the circuit board. If you have the original key I believe the EWS chip is solder to the board and if you damage the board you may not be able to start your car. After market key use a chip that is not soldered to the board.

Just my 2₵ advise and it's only worth 2₵.

Next time tell her to break the passenger side window or a rear door window. They are a lot easier to fix compare with the fix window that she broke.

[Jerd]

She did break the rear door window.



Thank you all! The tumbler has been rebuilt and all is working as it should now.



Now, onward to changing that battery.....

[oldskewel]

Glad you got it fixed.

I now find myself in a similar predicament. I know it is bad practice. When I first got the car, I was paranoid about getting locked out, took what I thought were sufficient precautions, and now am stuck.

Briefly, I have read what seem like every thread on this forum about this problem. Nothing non-destructive works so far. Several times there is a mention of some secret method given out selectively when people are stuck. I have PM'ed the people who claim to have used this method, and have no answer after a couple of days of waiting.

So if anyone knows the method (e.g., from user UCrewX5), please let me know.

I know there are many different variations on the lockout, e.g., summarized in the threads listed here:
https://xoutpost.com/1105705-post2.html

My specific situation is:

• Car battery is just fine.
• I have plenty of keys.
• Door handle carriers are all good.
• Windows all up, locked out, hood closed, alarm set, car in my driveway.

Just about 10 days ago, I tried to re-initialize my key fobs, since they had not been working for a while. After doing that, I found that only one of the 4 was working. I figured I should recharge all their batteries, so (as I have done a few times before, over the years) I put them all near the ignition key cylinder, turned the key to ON, hooked up a battery charger, and left it overnight to charge the key fobs. Yes, I know, there are easier ways, but I have too many projects. Following that charging and a few programming attempts, unfortunately ZERO fobs worked. But perhaps useful to note that prior to the failed recharging, one of them did work, suggesting the car-side of things are OK. And for the current situation, I think it mean there is zero hope of getting them to work before getting a door open some other way.

Then as bad luck would have it, my door key cylinder failed. I know all about how to fix it, and in fact, as part of my paranoia about this situation, I had replaced a cracked component in the mechanism that I had noticed a few years ago.

So now, the key fobs are all non-functioning, and the mechanical unlock does not work.

Some extra stuff I have tried and failed at:

• holding in the unlock button on a key fob to roll down windows - does not work
• repeated wiggling, attempts to see if anything in the key mechanism will catch and turn - does not work
• pried open the top of the front passenger (right) door, reached in with a rod, pressed multiple times on the door unlocking button on the central console - does not work (although there may be a chance I just need to press a lot harder on that button)
• reached down with a rod to try to actuate the passenger window. Does not work, of course, because the key is not in the ignition. But when I did that, I expected the alarm to go off. It did not, which may point to why the central unlock button does not work as I believe it should.
• Also reached down with a rod to try to actuate the passenger door inner door handle. I know it is double locked, and my understanding is that once the central button is pressed, they should be openable with a double-pull. No luck.

At this point, I'm hoping to hear of the secret method. If I don't, I will probably, in this order:

1. Try again to press the central locking button, being sure to adjust my technique so I am surely pressing down fully.
2. See if I can reach in with a rod through the same pried passenger door access point, put a key into the ignition, turn it to ON, and then roll down a window.
3. Remove the plastic cap over the door key cylinder. Drill out the screw holding the cylinder in place, and actuate the door lock actuator using a screwdriver once it is exposed.
4. Check price and availability of windows.

Any advice, corrections to my failed attempts, etc. will be greatly appreciated.