After Trans oil Change/harsh downshift now

[crystalworks]

Good info Rockit. Thanks for the update. I'll add that I just used liquid moly's substitute for the zf lifeguard 6 that these trans call for. It is also very thin. If I hadn't changed the bridge seal and the 4 rubber sleeve seals I'd be very worried.

This was on a 186000 mile 6hp19 in a 5 series wagon. I am still in the process of the fluid fill (got 3.5 liters in so far) as I was waiting for a guibo, exhaust gaskets, and csb to come in before continuing on the trans. Will update with results here to add to the knowledge base. The vehicle had no real shifting issues before the work.

[Rockit]

Originally Posted by crystalworks

If I hadn't changed the bridge seal and the 4 rubber sleeve seals I'd be very worried.

Crystalworks, can you please document this procedure if not in pictures can you explain in detail what you changed and the part numbers. This may cure my problem.

[Rockit]

This is the link to the Youtuber Crystalworks mentioned, states why he uses that Valvoline oil. There are many ads but worth hearing.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vqQxnICNJxA

[Purplefade]

Originally Posted by Rockit

Crystalworks, can you please document this procedure if not in pictures can you explain in detail what you changed and the part numbers. This may cure my problem.

Hey Rockit

I'm sure one of the guys will keep me honest, but I don't think the 5 speeds in the 02 use the same bridge seal and pickup tube setup as the 6 speed in CWs so that probably wouldn't help you too much.

[Rockit]

So an update....the problem with the trans was NOT in the trans, it was the rubber damper on the drive shaft.

So my car was shifting fine, I changed the trans oil at 125k on a 2002 and it started to down shift harsh. I'm a very good diagnostician and this got me. The rubber damper on the drive shaft was cracked
/worn and aloud to wobble and created play, very hard to spot bolted together. When the car was put on the lift it most have torn the worn part further. as the suspension went to full rebound. Every time I would put it on the lift to change the trans fluid it would change the position or align or misaligned the rubber cupler. I don't know the BMW name for it.

If you have a Hugo E53 and I would change every piece of plastic and rubber you can find. I had 2 E38's with 150k and 10 years old and never had any of these issues except for the Bear radiator top house cracking as the all did because they could not taken the heat. Bear F'ed that up and took zero responsibility.

Anyway if you have an 2002-2005 or so change them now, its age rather than mileage. You will never find this until the bolts break off eventually, I had zero drive line vibration.

[bhennrich]

Originally Posted by Rockit

So an update....the problem with the trans was NOT in the trans, it was the rubber damper on the drive shaft.

So my car was shifting fine, I changed the trans oil at 125k on a 2002 and it started to down shift harsh. I'm a very good diagnostician and this got me. The rubber damper on the drive shaft was cracked
/worn and aloud to wobble and created play, very hard to spot bolted together. When the car was put on the lift it most have torn the worn part further. as the suspension went to full rebound. Every time I would put it on the lift to change the trans fluid it would change the position or align or misaligned the rubber cupler. I don't know the BMW name for it.

If you have a Hugo E53 and I would change every piece of plastic and rubber you can find. I had 2 E38's with 150k and 10 years old and never had any of these issues expect for the bear radiator top house cracking as the all did.

Anyway if you have an 2002-2005 or so change them now, its age rather than mileage. You will never find this until the bolts break off eventually, I had zero drive line vibration.

It sounds like you are talking about the "guibo" and there are two of them on the X5. One for front and one for rear