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I got Delphi branded ball joints. Got them from rockauto. I can't remember how much I paid...def not the cheapest and decided to go with something name brand.
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2003 BMW X5 3.0i -- MT5, 3.64s final gears, H&R lowering springs, K-Mac bushing kit 2007 BMW X3 3.0Si -- MT6 |
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Control Arm Ball Joint Replacement
Freeze old to remove could help also.
Steel changes size 1% per 100°F approximately so heat the outer part to 250F or so and cool the inner part to -15°F (use R134a aka canned duster). I've measured 0.003" (0.08mm) difference in my front bearings. Don't make the goof of freezing rear bearings on X5: oops they are bolt on but press over the hub: cold makes them tighter. I made a kit from an R134a can valve and a shop air duster to apply cold to things. Originally so I could freeze a water pipe to change a valve downstream. I've done that a couple times. I've used dry ice to cool a hub to remove from my front bearing but now I just needed up my bearing press to 31T capability no longer need to use heat and cold.
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2011 E70 • N55 (me) 2012 E70 • N63 (wife) Last edited by andrewwynn; 05-05-2020 at 11:55 PM. |
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This will make the conversation MUCH easier as everyone will actually know what the hell they are specifically discussing.
![]() FRONT Suspension Parts REAR Suspension Parts The Front Suspension has multiple "Ball Joints" some are attached to the arms, others are separate parts. The front also has BUSHINGS that are part of two arms. The REAR Suspension has a BIG Ball Joint on the LOWER part of the hub/wheel Carrier that attaches to the lower swing arm and all X5s has few little ones in the UPPER arms that are part of the control arms (entire arm is REPLACEABLE) See Images below for details. Now that we are shop class 101, point to the image and give us the number of said part that you are all replacing.... ![]()
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![]() 2005 X5 4.8IS The Blue ones are always FASTER.... Current Garage: 2005 X5 4.8is 2002 M5 TiSilver 2003 525iT 1998 528i Former Garage Stable Highlights 2004 325XiT Sport 1973 De Tomaso Pantera, L Model 1970 Dodge Challenger T/A 4 sp Alpine White 1970 Dodge Challenger T/A 4 sp GoManGo Green 1971 Dart Sport, “Dart Light” package 1969 Road Runner 383 1968 Ply Barracuda 340S FB Sea-foam Green Last edited by StephenVA; 05-07-2020 at 07:50 AM. |
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My question is/was if anyone has replaced the ball joints that come IN the control arms. I hope that makes it clearer. Sorry for any confusion. |
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Item #6 in the rear suspension forward control arm (Upper Guide Link) has a small swivel joint (ball shaped) that only comes with the arm. Their average life span is 100K, so one replacement in 200K for the 3.0 applications, longer than most owners' ownership. In the large V8 they last approx 60K depending on driver and road conditions.
Unless your needs are such and you plan on HEAVY modifications, it works as designed. The next question just for curiosity, Why would you want to? What performance, adjustment advantage are you seeking? There was a company that made adjustable length units many years ago. Are they still around? Who knows. Use the search function on this site to find the postings.
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![]() 2005 X5 4.8IS The Blue ones are always FASTER.... Current Garage: 2005 X5 4.8is 2002 M5 TiSilver 2003 525iT 1998 528i Former Garage Stable Highlights 2004 325XiT Sport 1973 De Tomaso Pantera, L Model 1970 Dodge Challenger T/A 4 sp Alpine White 1970 Dodge Challenger T/A 4 sp GoManGo Green 1971 Dart Sport, “Dart Light” package 1969 Road Runner 383 1968 Ply Barracuda 340S FB Sea-foam Green Last edited by StephenVA; 05-07-2020 at 12:08 PM. |
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Adjustable are still available from Hardrace: https://hardraceusa.com/collections/x5-e53-2000-2006 |
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Thanks for speaking up for some clarification.
![]() BTW, everyone, please note that diagrams are great, part numbers great too (for google purposes so others can find your great info months or years down the road), and also that "rear suspension forward control arm" is far clearer than something like "rear front control arm" See the difference? Also many of these arms have their own special names, such as the "guide link" there. BTW, my guide links are still truckin' along at 192+k miles. Carry on.
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2001 X5 3.0i, 203k miles, AT, owned since 2014 |
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I think adjustable rear suspension upper control arms are way more costly and less permanent than just getting proper rear suspension control arm bushings. In addition, using the upper control arm adjustments changes the offset more than making the proper corrections on the lower control arm for the rear suspension. This might pose problems for wheel offset and fender alignment. This was my ultimate deciding factor for not choosing to go with the rear suspension upper control arm correction solution. Using a poly bushing type in the rear suspension lower control arm is more of a permanent solution as opposed to the upper control arms in my opinion. As a side note, I've always been curious if these have been compatible with E53 rear suspension control arms: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...ings-spc-72185 They are definitely more affordable if you're wanting the adjustability. And the E53 rear suspension is borrowed much of the other platforms that are listed in the compatibility tables for them. I dunno...but I wasn't willing to take the chance.
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2003 BMW X5 3.0i -- MT5, 3.64s final gears, H&R lowering springs, K-Mac bushing kit 2007 BMW X3 3.0Si -- MT6 |
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I will replace the rubber bushings with poly bushings. I will now have what amounts to a "lifetime" bushing. That bushing will be mounted in lifetime piece of metal, let's use the guide link. So the guide link and bushing are now lifetime, but the ball joint is not. I'm not aware of any ball joints being made that are "lifetime". If they do, I'd love to know about them. So, we have a lifetime bushing and lifetime link and ball joint that will wear out. My goal is to be able to keep a perfectly serviceable guide link and bushing and put a new ball joint into it instead of buy the alternative. The alternative being buying a new guide link assembly, pressing out the rubber bushing, installing my poly bushing from my old guide link which now has a failed ball joint and throwing away a perfectly serviceable guide link. If the ball joint can be replaced, then the only thing I will ever have to replace in the future is the ball joint. Is that making more sense? |
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