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  #11  
Old 05-12-2020, 05:48 PM
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It is mechanical and my DME has been programmed to eliminate the error and had the aux fan activation settings tweaked as well...
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  #12  
Old 05-13-2020, 11:17 AM
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What's your radiator outlet temp? If the outlet temp is high you have a flow problem it the radiator outlet temp is low you have a thermostat problem. (not opening at set point e g mis boxed part that opens at a higher set point than desired.

You can usually test the setpoint by monitoring the radiator out temp and the engine core temp/inlet temp.

ECT should be close to the set temp when you observe a quick change in the radiator outlet temp. Eg outlet temp not changing for the first five minutes when warming up then quickly jumps 10° when ECT is 105 means thermostat opened at 105. You can do the test in some coolant in a soup can on a stove (coolant so you can heat above 100).

It seems to me your tstat is opening close to normal temps not the desired lower temp.
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Old 05-13-2020, 11:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wpoll View Post
I was going to ask if the thermostat is electrically controlled, as that would require some coding or wiring change to alter the set-point, wouldn't it?



And wow - a 100watt resistor? That gonna be rather large. :-)





12 ohm at 14v is about 16w.

16w will generate a lot of heat but the metal resistors like the one in the photo are designed to take it you just need to have enough air moving past so it doesn't heat to 600F.
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  #14  
Old 05-13-2020, 11:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewwynn View Post
What's your radiator outlet temp? If the outlet temp is high you have a flow problem it the radiator outlet temp is low you have a thermostat problem. (not opening at set point e g mis boxed part that opens at a higher set point than desired.

You can usually test the setpoint by monitoring the radiator out temp and the engine core temp/inlet temp.

ECT should be close to the set temp when you observe a quick change in the radiator outlet temp. Eg outlet temp not changing for the first five minutes when warming up then quickly jumps 10° when ECT is 105 means thermostat opened at 105. You can do the test in some coolant in a soup can on a stove (coolant so you can heat above 100).

It seems to me your tstat is opening close to normal temps not the desired lower temp.
When I briefly checked the outlet radiator temp with INPA it was around 58-60c. I would buy a new tstat but they have trippled in price...
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Old 05-13-2020, 01:40 PM
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That's plenty cool to get desired results. Check when starting and see if your can catch the moment the outlet temp jumps.

At cold start outlet should be close to ambient. It will climb a bit from convection but it should jump 10-20° pretty quickly when tstat first opens. the ect when that happens will be a good approximation of the tstat temp.

It's pretty strange for a tstat to change opening temp so I'm quite curious about this case. If it sticks close the temp will get very high I suppose it could fail where it closes completely but won't open fully in this case it will run hot but not at a stable temp.

I can't recall if you said the temp ranges more than usual. If it is say ranging from 100-105 I would suspect a failure where it won't open completely. Usually a tstat can keep ECT within 2-3C.
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Old 05-13-2020, 02:25 PM
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Its been mainly around 99-101 and on occasion 96-98. My e38 with the same mechanical 88c tstat get an avg of 93c and once in a while will get to 99c but will get back down to 93c pretty quickly...
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Old 05-13-2020, 03:18 PM
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The difference you see between the two cars might simply be from the coolant path through the engine and the place the ECT is measured.

If you are seeing very temps that stick within 3c that's usually a clear indication of the tstat working properly. If it can't open full or there's a flow restriction usually you will see temps range 5+c

Do you have an IR thermometer you can measure the actual temp of the tstat?


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Old 05-13-2020, 03:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewwynn View Post
The difference you see between the two cars might simply be from the coolant path through the engine and the place the ECT is measured.

If you are seeing very temps that stick within 3c that's usually a clear indication of the tstat working properly. If it can't open full or there's a flow restriction usually you will see temps range 5+c

Do you have an IR thermometer you can measure the actual temp of the tstat? Thinking more into this the e38 4.4 and e53 4.6 have the tstat and coolant temperature sensors in the same location. I would assume that means the ktemp reported should be the same?


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I may have access to an IR temp gun. Where on the tstat should I shoot it at?
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Last edited by Purplecty; 05-13-2020 at 05:30 PM.
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  #19  
Old 05-13-2020, 11:05 PM
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Shouldn't matter too much but as close to the center as possible or if metal definitely aim for the metal (caveat: if it's shiny IR will be measuring the temp of whatever is reflected off the metal).

Temp of the hose going in or out should be very close to the fluid temp in the hose. Compare at the outlet vs the OBC value for radiator outlet
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