Can not communicate with EWS module when trying to get a new key

[Jakal702]

Originally Posted by oldskewel

I agree with all this. I bought my 3x valet keys (discussing in the other thread now) from that site, thebmwminipartstore.com, back in the day. Relatively cheap and convenient. Same as from a local dealer, minus the drive and free coffee.

But it is a real mystery regarding why it does not work. I would discount everything the dealer is telling you.

Could it be that a previous owner swapped in a different EWS system in your car, and that is causing the confusion with the new key as well as your being unable to communicate with the EWS? Like maybe one of these services where you send them your EWS box (or whatever it is) and they program some keys and send it all back to you - and that's what one of the previous owners did, and somehow the repair/programming service left the EWS in this state? Unable to communicate and accept new keys, yet still working with the keys programmed back then?

Also, common knowledge, but I'll bring it up ... the EWS is limited to 10 keys over the lifetime of the system. At some point, if you reach the limit, you're done ... unless you do the workaround .

I was told this is the fifth key on this EWS, which also doesn’t make any sense to me because again, they said they were unable to read it. Everything they are saying is inconsistent

[Jakal702]

Originally Posted by Effduration

You have one, fully functioning key right? I agree with you, I don't see how it can be a problem with the EWS if the orig key starts the car and the new key doesn't.

Getting keys from a dealer that don't work (start car) is relatively rare, though I think it does happen.

You can't simply return the key as non-working for a refund? If you can, I would return the key and IMMEDIATELY place a new key order with https://www.thebmwminipartstore.com/.. I would try to avoid having the same key sent back to you (all come from BMW New Jersey)

I don't like the idea of digging out your EWS, struggling with INPA (although you should get it to work), looking at fuse boxes, chasing Zebras, etc. just because you bought a key that doesn't work in this situation. Return it..speak to the manager.

Dealer won’t allow me to return the key for a refund or make a warranty claim on it. I’m really just frustrated because nothing they are saying is making sense to me

[Jakal702]

Originally Posted by Clavurion

If you have INPA can you communicate normally with every other module (modules on the K-bus) except EWS?

Edit: On other thread you say that you can only communicate with DME and TCM. Do you have pins 7 and 8 bridged on the diagnostic interface like they should? You can also measure the voltage on OBD connector pins 7 and 8, it should be above 2 V against ground when ignition on.

I am unsure if I have 7 and 8 bridged... will have to check in the AM. I will also check the voltage of both. I’m starting to think this is just a wiring issue because what are the chances that every module could fail due to corrosion in all different parts of the car

[Jakal702]

Originally Posted by aureliusmax

Sorry to hear OP is in the process of getting jerked with an incompetent dealer that clearly has no idea what they're doing.

You need some ebay keys, and the AK90 coder system. The 10 key limit is just not an issue anymore.

With the AK90, you remove the EWS module inside the drivers footwell panel.
Put the socket over the memory chip.
Load the app, delete all the old programmed keys. Use the tool to read and program your blank keys. You can even use it to read and program the quote 'dealer coded key' . You can get the programming plus get ebay keys for less than $150 all in.

I bought my E53 without any working keys, I made them myself.

This is most likely the route I’m going to have to take. I appreciate you giving me the steps for the procedure!

I previously wrote that the dealer told me this is the fifth key... again this doesn’t add up to me. How would they know this is the fifth key if they can’t communicate with the EWS?

[aureliusmax]

Originally Posted by Jakal702

This is most likely the route I’m going to have to take. I appreciate you giving me the steps for the procedure!

I previously wrote that the dealer told me this is the fifth key... again this doesn’t add up to me. How would they know this is the fifth key if they can’t communicate with the EWS?

It's not even worth the time to chase after the dealer. Just leave them a 1/5 star review on google maps and go a route that is certain to work if in fact your EWS communicates on the canbus with the DME.

[EODguy]

Depending on the state, county, city the cost amount to leave Small-Claims court AKA do it yourself court can be quite low and may possible to file a charge of "Theft by Deception" with the local DA. You paid for object 1 that would perform task 1,2,3 but instead they gave you similar object 1a that does only a minor percentage of what you paid the full price for.

I would try to get as much in writing from them as possible even if you aren't trying to make a legal case against them as they may try to bring a case against you for leaving an honest review and unless it's "Giuseppe Motors llc." they probably will fix the key issue instead of the bad publicity of yelp or whatever.

Sent from my SM-A730F using Tapatalk

[Effduration]

Originally Posted by Jakal702

This is most likely the route I’m going to have to take. I appreciate you giving me the steps for the procedure!

I previously wrote that the dealer told me this is the fifth key... again this doesn’t add up to me. How would they know this is the fifth key if they can’t communicate with the EWS?

I am hearing about big problems getting the AK90 to work over on the E46 board. I haven't tried using one, and there are those who seem to use it no problem, but there are many stories of people really struggling with it (like more than half the people give up) and it may have something to do with how the AK90 is manufactured ?

If you do buy one, buy a known-good one, or buy it from somebody with good ratings who will help you if you run into problems.

oh, and by the way, parts from a dealer should be warrantied for 2 years, so if you DO want to fight the dealer (might not be worth it), you have time.

[Clavurion]

Originally Posted by Effduration

I am hearing about big problems getting the AK90 to work over on the E46 board. I haven't tried using one, and there are those who seem to use it no problem, but there are many stories of people really struggling with it (like more than half the people give up) and it may havre something to do with how the AK90 is manufactured ?

With AK90+ there is a real risk that it corrupts the EEPROM on EWS module and the key information is permanently lost so that you have to order a new module from dealer.

[Effduration]

Originally Posted by Clavurion

With AK90+ there is a real risk that it corrupts the EEPROM on EWS module and the key information is permanently lost so that you have to order a new module from dealer.

Wow that's good to know. I have a new, never-used AK90+ unit I loaned to a tech savvy (elec engineer) on E46fanatics...he is struggling to get it to work, and discovered a major manufacturing flaw in the plug that attaches to the EEPROM resulting in most people attaching it 90 degrees off from the correct position.

So maybe we should avoid all AK90+'s?

See post #26
https://forum.e46fanatics.com/showth...1106419&page=2

[oldskewel]

Originally Posted by Jakal702

I was told this is the fifth key on this EWS, which also doesn’t make any sense to me because again, they said they were unable to read it. Everything they are saying is inconsistent

My understanding is that there are 10 codes that will work with the EWS system in your car. You get 3 (?) of them in the keys that come with the car. The remaining 7 codes are just information securely stored back at the mothership. No keys or chips are pre-made. No communication is needed with your car each time a new key is issued.

You ask for a new one, provide your VIN and proof of ownership, and they burn and cut the next key in whatever physical form you order (valet vs. diamond, etc.). And they know you just used code #5 out of 10, so you have 5 left. They do all this with no idea of what EWS box you actually still have in your car, or what other 3rd parties may have already done. They know it is #5 because 1,2,3 and 4 all already came from there, they know what they are, they know about 6,7,8,9,10 and that they have not been released yet, etc.

Separately from your situation, I believe there is an option for them to access your car and turn off some previously issued codes, but that would not be needed when just buying a new key.

So basically, to me, this does make sense, although the stuff you were originally told at the dealership is clearly wrong.