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  #1  
Old 05-13-2020, 11:23 PM
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Can not communicate with EWS module when trying to get a new key

Hello,
I recently posted on another forum about getting a new key at the dealer that will not start my car. Due to lack of responses, I知 posting here hoping someone can help me! To sum up my experience so far, I got a new key that will do all functions except start the car. The dealer tells me that the key was coded correctly but they also say they cannot read the EWS to code the key (is there anyone else who thinks this is inconsistent and doesn't make any sense?) and they also say that this is caused by water building up and shorting out my main fuse box in the car. They also told me that the EWS is located in the trunk, and the main fuse box is under my passenger seat, and the water there is blocking the communication to the EWS (which I know is incorrect because the EWS is located in the driver footwell under the steering wheel)

I went home and tried to use my copy of INPA/ and NCS expert to read the EWS and it also says no response from the EWS.

Dealer says they can't do anything else because -the key was "coded correctly" -they cannot access the EWS to see if the key was coded correctly (again inconsistent)
-they cannot tell if the key is faulty and warranty it because they don't know if it's the key being bad, or the car not accepting the key and the EWS not getting any power

Here's what doesn't make sense to me
-how could the dealer know if the key was coded correctly if they can't access the EWS?
-how could the EWS not be receiving any voltage, but the car still starts with the original key? (I tested this by removing the fuse for the immobilizer- car didn't start at all- when fuse was replaced, it started with the original key, and I was in the same situation)

This all confuses me because I also cannot communicate with the ews, but the car still starts

Can anyone offer any feedback? Anything will be much appreciated, as the dealer wants to charge me six hours of labor to clean out the water which is supposedly located under my front passenger seat and causing all of these problems

Thanks in advance!
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  #2  
Old 05-14-2020, 12:22 AM
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Going from memory having an aftermarket key coder guy do my key they had to pull the ews out of the white block under the dash to get the codes to load on to a new key so I would assume that a dealership would have to do something similar unless they have access to the code database by ViN.


As for the water it's either your roof drains ir the drain by control box at the firewall. I'm betting on roof drains and just pull the A-pillar cover and either reattach or un-kink the drain tube.


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Last edited by EODguy; 05-14-2020 at 12:28 AM.
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Old 05-14-2020, 12:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EODguy View Post
Going from memory having an aftermarket key coder guy do my key they had to pull the ews out of the white block under the dash to get the codes to load on to a new key so I would assume that a dealership would have to do something similar unless they have access to the code database by ViN.


As for the water it's either your roof drains ir the drain by control box at the firewall. I'm betting on roof drains and just pull the A-pillar cover and either reattach or un-kink the drain tube.


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Thanks for the information about the EWS... I知 assuming that痴 what will have to be done because I知 not gonna go the route of getting a new EWS and different keys, so that痴 much appreciated.

Is the main fuse box really under the passenger seat? Or is the dealer just trying to take me for a ride... reason I知 wondering is because this was a problem I had on a 5 series I previously owned and it screwed the electronics throughout the whole car, luckily it was repaired under warranty (3 times) but I知 not too familiar with the E53. Thanks again!
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Old 05-14-2020, 12:55 AM
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Fuse box is behind the glovebox and I only mentioned the process done by an aftermarket place so I really don't know if it's the same at the dealership but if it was the ews box is under the dash pretty much in line with the steering column and if it's been removed I would think you could see fresh scratches or whatever.

As for the drains it's easy and not 6 hours of work doing it yourself for the 1st time

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Old 05-14-2020, 05:20 AM
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If you have INPA can you communicate normally with every other module (modules on the K-bus) except EWS?

Edit: On other thread you say that you can only communicate with DME and TCM. Do you have pins 7 and 8 bridged on the diagnostic interface like they should? You can also measure the voltage on OBD connector pins 7 and 8, it should be above 2 V against ground when ignition on.
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Last edited by Clavurion; 05-14-2020 at 05:27 AM.
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Old 05-14-2020, 06:16 AM
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I think Andrew might be on to this - an early build car will have only DME and EGS on the 16-pin OBD - everything else is on the 20-pin connector under the hood.

It's possible to use jumpers on the cap pins of the 20-pin to route the other modules bus through to the 16-pin. Certainly simplifies things...

And you would think the dealers would know this....
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Old 05-14-2020, 06:36 AM
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Originally Posted by wpoll View Post
I think Andrew might be on to this - an early build car will have only DME and EGS on the 16-pin OBD - everything else is on the 20-pin connector under the hood.

It's possible to use jumpers on the cap pins of the 20-pin to route the other modules bus through to the 16-pin. Certainly simplifies things...

And you would think the dealers would know this....
I'm very familiar with this diagnostic port difference (on mainly E39 and E46 models) but still didn't cross my mind when talking about E53. Those early E53 models with round diagnostic port are mainly US versions.
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Old 05-14-2020, 06:49 AM
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You have one, fully functioning key right? I agree with you, I don't see how it can be a problem with the EWS if the orig key starts the car and the new key doesn't.

Getting keys from a dealer that don't work (start car) is relatively rare, though I think it does happen.

You can't simply return the key as non-working for a refund? If you can, I would return the key and IMMEDIATELY place a new key order with https://www.thebmwminipartstore.com/.. I would try to avoid having the same key sent back to you (all come from BMW New Jersey)

I don't like the idea of digging out your EWS, struggling with INPA (although you should get it to work), looking at fuse boxes, chasing Zebras, etc. just because you bought a key that doesn't work in this situation. Return it..speak to the manager.
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Old 05-14-2020, 04:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Effduration View Post
You have one, fully functioning key right? I agree with you, I don't see how it can be a problem with the EWS if the orig key starts the car and the new key doesn't.

Getting keys from a dealer that don't work (start car) is relatively rare, though I think it does happen.

You can't simply return the key as non-working for a refund? If you can, I would return the key and IMMEDIATELY place a new key order with https://www.thebmwminipartstore.com/.. I would try to avoid having the same key sent back to you (all come from BMW New Jersey)

I don't like the idea of digging out your EWS, struggling with INPA (although you should get it to work), looking at fuse boxes, chasing Zebras, etc. just because you bought a key that doesn't work in this situation. Return it..speak to the manager.
I agree with all this. I bought my 3x valet keys (discussing in the other thread now) from that site, thebmwminipartstore.com, back in the day. Relatively cheap and convenient. Same as from a local dealer, minus the drive and free coffee.

But it is a real mystery regarding why it does not work. I would discount everything the dealer is telling you.

Could it be that a previous owner swapped in a different EWS system in your car, and that is causing the confusion with the new key as well as your being unable to communicate with the EWS? Like maybe one of these services where you send them your EWS box (or whatever it is) and they program some keys and send it all back to you - and that's what one of the previous owners did, and somehow the repair/programming service left the EWS in this state? Unable to communicate and accept new keys, yet still working with the keys programmed back then?

Also, common knowledge, but I'll bring it up ... the EWS is limited to 10 keys over the lifetime of the system. At some point, if you reach the limit, you're done ... unless you do the workaround .
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Old 05-14-2020, 11:53 PM
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Sorry to hear OP is in the process of getting jerked with an incompetent dealer that clearly has no idea what they're doing.

You need some ebay keys, and the AK90 coder system. The 10 key limit is just not an issue anymore.

With the AK90, you remove the EWS module inside the drivers footwell panel.
Put the socket over the memory chip.
Load the app, delete all the old programmed keys. Use the tool to read and program your blank keys. You can even use it to read and program the quote 'dealer coded key' . You can get the programming plus get ebay keys for less than $150 all in.

I bought my E53 without any working keys, I made them myself.
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