Intermittent AC - out of ideas

[upallnight]

Originally Posted by andrewwynn

I wonder if you can trick it by spinning the fan but I don't know how the computer measures that it spins e g is it measuring induced voltage.

History shows if the aux fan fails startup test AC will.not operate

You will need to unsnap the gille in front of the aux fan in ordere to spin it. Just be careful, just incase the fan starts spinning. You don't want any fingers in the way of the fan if it start to spin.

[andrewwynn]

Yes definitely use a stick depending how long it takes to wind down you might be able to spin with scanner then quickly start the car. Then reset any code before trying to use ac.

[FellowsheepTech]

I did make a little progress finally, though doubt I'm done.

Ordered another aux fan thinking there may be something about this Amazon special the DME doesn't like. Put the other fan in, started vehicle:
- no fan twitch at all
- Hit "MAX" & no fan, but compressor activated...no real cooling
Might have cried a little at this point, but my wife was present.

Cleared code (fan activation from prior) & tested with tool
- fan activated on command from tool (like before)

Shut engine off & restarted; no new code. Activated A/C & clutch activated but no real cooling. Checked states with tool; all good.

Ran engine RPM up over 5k - BINGO, heard fan come on & felt the cold air. Left idling for a bit & cooling remained on. Checked codes, no fan activation code.

We'll see what happens when the bumper cover is back on & driving tomorrow.

BTW, A/C just died on my 2004 R53 Mini too. Was down to 7 of 14oz. but didn't work when recharged. Just replaced alternator last week, but compressor is original (233kmi).

[Auto Parts Guy]

Interesting AC issues. My money is on this variable compressor too. Maybe you also had a fan issue as well.. My compressor has this issue, as do many LCI e53s.

[upallnight]

Originally Posted by FellowsheepTech

I did make a little progress finally, though doubt I'm done.

Ordered another aux fan thinking there may be something about this Amazon special the DME doesn't like. Put the other fan in, started vehicle:
- no fan twitch at all
- Hit "MAX" & no fan, but compressor activated...no real cooling
Might have cried a little at this point, but my wife was present.

Cleared code (fan activation from prior) & tested with tool
- fan activated on command from tool (like before)

Shut engine off & restarted; no new code. Activated A/C & clutch activated but no real cooling. Checked states with tool; all good.

Ran engine RPM up over 5k - BINGO, heard fan come on & felt the cold air. Left idling for a bit & cooling remained on. Checked codes, no fan activation code.

We'll see what happens when the bumper cover is back on & driving tomorrow.

BTW, A/C just died on my 2004 R53 Mini too. Was down to 7 of 14oz. but didn't work when recharged. Just replaced alternator last week, but compressor is original (233kmi).

The 5000 rpm test is just to kick the variable compressor into action. If you had a bad aux fan, there will be a fault code in the DME module.

My opinion is that the variable valve for the compressor is not operating as designed. You can change the valve, or you can change the compressor. Both require the refrigerant to be evacuated.

If it was my X I would change the compressor, but hey, that's me. I don't like monkeying around with cars these days.

[EODguy]

This is your variable compressor (90%+) guaranteed. A single stage compressor is about 150 USD from Ebay (old search) but who knows now.

Now on your Mini you could have leaked oil into your condenser slugging it. Depending on prices it could be cheaper to replace the condenser vs cleaning it as it's not easy to remove the oil inside and leave it free from residue and some places won't do it because of warranty considerations.

Sent from my SM-A730F using Tapatalk

[FellowsheepTech]

Originally Posted by upallnight

The 5000 rpm test is just to kick the variable compressor into action. If you had a bad aux fan, there will be a fault code in the DME module.

Started with both...code for fan even though new (apparently incompatible) & RPM test didn't do squat. Replaced fan a second time...

Originally Posted by upallnight

My opinion is that the variable valve for the compressor is not operating as designed. You can change the valve, or you can change the compressor. Both require the refrigerant to be evacuated.

Agree now with current behavior...when I get around to it