Ultra Stealth iPod Project guide

[martinsnider]

This is a continuation of my Icelink (ice-link, ice link, and ice>link) install from this thread.

http://www.xoutpost.com/x5-e53-forum/...html#post97768

After getting the Icelink cable run all the way to the center console bottom bin, I undertook the goal of modifying my factory installed 6-disc cd holder into a secret compartment for my iPod. Partially because it was cool and stealth, but also because I needed the space in there. This part is an otherwise waste of space, IMHO.

FOR THOSE UNDERTAKING THE PROJECT, EQUIPMENT AND PARTS LIST IS AT THE BOTTOM.

First, here is what the finished product looks like, (Also, I forgot to take a complete before picture.), the item specs if you want to obtain it, and the relative size of the case to the ipod in cradle.



You can see in these pictures that the iPod in the cradle doesn't leave much room inside the holder for the soon-to-be modified tray holders.

I started by removing the disc-holder compartment from the rest of the unit. This is made easy by sliding 6 dimes into the respective tabs that hold it in there. Then pull it out from the back. This leaves you with separated holder.



The next step (4 following photos) turned out to be remarkably easy. Remove the 6 trays and the two 3-pronged metal springs on the bottom. Once the individual trays are removed, they can separated at their pivot point. (The tray is a 2 piece design with a swiveling head that allows for easier access to the CD). I used a dremel with the normal cutting disk (the cheap ones) and almost made it through the whole project on one disk. There are two little hinges on the sides that need to be cut through and then the bottom portion is completely disconnected. Do this for all 6 trays. Once the 6 pieces are separated your "TOP" is now ready for reassembly later on.



On each tray there now remains only one point that will fasten the "TOP" to the "BOTTOM" (The other half of the separated case.) This tab is released by pressing the bottom on the top of the tray. Eventually, you will want to remove some of these, but I suggest waiting until you have finished the reassembly of the top before carving out the tabs.

I went to work on modiying the bottom portion next mostly to allow a way for my fingers to get underneath from the inside and push up now that the springs have been removed. (Photos first, then description)



First, cut an access hole in the middle of one of the "FACES" (I will call them Faces and Sides. The Faces are the larger square sides, and the sides are the slotted rectangular sides of the case) At this point I thought it would be very important to make sure that I was keeping the different orientations correct, but as I discovered later, this is not as important as I thought it would be. In either event, I chose to cut the whole in the face that would be facing the rear of the car. You can determine this by close examination of the grooves that hold the case into the bin. They are slightly different styles.

The whole serves the dual purpose allowing you access to screw in the base plate for the cradle as well as get your fingers in there to push up the trays while test fitting and later manipulating the bases that will be epoxied into the case.


I determined that the cradle shouldn't be placed all the way at the bottom because of the way the cable comes out of the bottom. So, I left a small space for the cable. However, after several test fittings of the ipod once the cradle was attached, I noticed that I had a fair bit of flex that was being exerted on the back face of the case. I then decided that what needed to be done is to place a spacer at the bottom to hold the cradle up, without putting extra pressure on the cable. I found an eraser to be the easiest solution for me. It cuts easily, is firm but soft, and I had one handy. The only downside is that I couldn't really glue it down. But, taping it into place with electrical tape worked quite well.

Oh yes, you must also at some point cut out a space for the 8-pin cable end to come out the bottom. I just removed a few of the slots on the side of the case. And you will need to either drill out a whole in the bottom or reverse the cradle mount to allow some sort of access to the tiny allen bolt that allows you to fasten the cradle to the mount. There are many options for both of these.


Finally, the only thing that remained to complete the bottom, was to install a spring mechanism to push the tray back up. I decided on two fairly soft (as opposed to strong) 3" x 1/2" springs that they had at my local True Value. For a base, I found two PVC plumbing pieces. I don't know what they are called, but they look like caps. The size is listed as 3/4" x 1/2". The best thing was that there is a tiny lip inside the cap that catches the spring without it going all the way to the bottom. A liberal slathering of epoxy and gently placing them on opposite sides, and you are all done with the base. [The only thing I may add to this is a 1/2" wooden dowel to go inside the spring and hold it in place and keep it from warping over time. I also gave some thought to putting a cap on the dowel so that the spring isn't making direct contact with the underside of the top, partially for a finished look and partially for durability.]

With the bottom complete, you are now ready to put the top back together. The difficulty in this step lies in getting the proper spacing for the tray heads. Each tray has its own groove that it needs to fit into. Now, one option is to remove the protruding rails from the inside of the case. I didn't try it. If it works, let me know. Instead, I decided to use small pieces of electrical tape stacked on the flat side of the tray head to create the correct spacing. HERE IS WHERE I WILL SAVE YOU HOURS OF TROUBLE. If I was to do it over again, this is how I would do it, not how I originially did it.

First, take two at a time, keeping in mind which slots you used as your test, although it may not end up mattering. Use the electrical tape as a spacer and then use hot glue as a great temporary holder. [It takes longer to set, but is very removable from this type of plastic. Another adhesive I found VERY effective for this project was MINI GLUE DOTS. These are for photo albums and such, but I found them to be an easy to use and strong adhesive. May negate the need for hot glue, but I discovered it very late in the project]

After you have created the 3 pairs, then affix them into a single unit while testing, spacing and fitting them again as a whole unit. Eventually, you should be able to get all trays to slide in easily as one unit. NOTE: THESE ARE DESIGNED TO GO IN ONE WAY, THEY SEEM LIKE THEY WILL REVERSE, BUT ARE MUCH HARDER TO PUSH ALL THE WAY DOWN, AND HAVE MORE FRICTION HOLDING THEM IN. COULD DAMAGE THE TRACKS IF CONSISTENTLY FORCED INTO THE WRONG DIRECTION.



Once you are absolutely sure that you have them spaced correctly, then you can epoxy them together. Now, you will soon be carving out the middle section of the underside of the top, so you will want to epoxy only at the ends. If you put on a good amount down into the crevices, then you will be fine. Also, after you have carved out your middle for the iPod clearance, you can then reinforce that area with another layer of epoxy.

Your epoxy is set. You test your top again (and hope to god, it is right.) Now you have to carve out an area of clearance for the iPod. [I originally, thought this would be easier to do before setting the 6 trays together. I was wrong. I discovered this after realizing that I had placed the three modified trays on the wrong side. So, I had the clearance for the iPod OR the correct orientation for the track, but not both.] I started by taking a fine hacksaw and cutting the sides. I found this made the dremeling easier because I was focusing only on the one long cut on each tray. After getting one out, the next one was fully accesible. You may have better tools or experience in cutting flimsy plastic, I was just afraid of getting something like a jigsaw in there and shaking it apart or breaking through and damaging the the visible top and ruining the stealth. I would guess that if you had a bandsaw handy, this would be a very fast step.



Ultimately, you will need to make your own measurements, but this is what I found. The eraser spacer on the bottom was only 4mm thick. The cradle was also slightly angled to move it lower in the base. With it that far into the bottom, I was still only able to have less than 1cm of clearance for the center area of the top. The result is that when you have finished the cutting, you will need a lot of epoxy to ensure that it is not broken later by pressure to the middle.

The thing I didn't save for last, that you should is shaving off extra tabs. I wanted the lid to open by pressing the right combo of buttons. But, I also wanted to be able to open it with one hand, so I only left the two center tabs (of the six). The downside of this is that when you press either one of those two, the whole side pops up. It is much "stealthier" if you leave at least two tabs on each side. That way they would have to press both tabs on one side to get the hint that there was something going on.



All in all, I believe I spent about $230 or so (including tax) to get this done. But, I think I may be able to recoup $125 or so by selling my cd-changer on eBay. (I will never use it.) It probably took me easily 16 hours to do this, but mostly because of trial and error.

Installing Icelink and running to console - 6 hours (could be done in 2 or less)
Destroying and refabricating the case - 10 hours (could be done in 5)

TOTAL PARTS AND EQUIPMENT LIST:

ICELINK - $199 (Although I hear $179 is possible.)
DREMEL TOOL - $$ (Other solutions are possible. Dremel works well though.)
ELECTRICAL TAPE - $1
HOT GLUE GUN - $$ (OPTIONAL)
MINI GLUE DOTS - $3
ERASER - $1 (Or similar spacind device)
SPRINGS - $4 (I used two 3" x 1/2" springs)
SPRING BASES - $1 (I used two PVC plumbing caps 3/4" x 1/2"
EPOXY - $5 (1 tube was sufficient for me)

OTHER OBVIOUS WARNINGS:

- Cut the springs down to get just the right pressure. Too much pressure will probably break the tabs off.

- Because of the width needed to fit the ipod, you must cut into the area that has the little red/white indicator. You can choose to keep this intact in several ways. But, the easiest is probably separating the two pieces that comprise a single tray top and supergluing the piece into the desired position.

- When putting the completed case back into the bin, be careful to make sure that the four tracks on the two faces are properly aligned, you will need to push out from the inside to get them to go.

I hope this is a helpful and inspiring guide for someone. I think this thing rocks.

Good Luck,

Martin

[martinsnider]

Just trying to avoid that.

[X5 Sport]

Great idea with the cd holder!!

[Tom G.]

This is going to be interesting!

[Dblock2151]

Love the write-up. I can't wait to see it installed!

Originally Posted by Tom G.

This is going to be interesting!

Sorry to go OT...Hey Tom, I know you just had a group buy for the IceLink, but when do you think a new group buy will be held? I can't believe I missed out on it.

[Tom G.]

Originally Posted by Dblock2151

Love the write-up. I can't wait to see it installed!



Sorry to go OT...Hey Tom, I know you just had a group buy for the IceLink, but when do you think a new group buy will be held? I can't believe I missed out on it.

Not sure when a new GB will be offered - possibly after our website is up and running soon!

[SILENTx5]

great write-up. a good DIY article for others who plan to do it this way. love the creativity of this board...