Front Lower Control Arms

[andrewwynn]

Front *axle* not front arm. From the OP photo it's quite clear this thread is talking about the rear of axle control arm. #10 is the part this thread is talking about

[X5only]

Originally Posted by KalahariBX5

this is the part we are discussing - hopefully, we can get clear on what it's called.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1PAr...ew?usp=sharing

It's called control arm but BMW calls it "Wishbone". It's around US$61 (Meyle) at FCPEURO. OEM is like US$271. Just replace the entire arm as the bushing on the other end (in the subframe connection) may gone too or on it's way out.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...-31126760276my

Note the part numbers:
Left 31126760275
right 31126760276

[X5only]

.... and here're the DIY instructions. Note the torque values. Must be tightened when the vehicle is on the ground or improvise that e.g. jacking up the steering knuckle to mimic vehicle on the ground (careful here, can be dangerous). It is necessary after reinstallation to carry out a wheel/chassis alignment check.

[X5only]

Nice video DIY here from autodoc. I like their videos done by a pro mechanic. He improvises by just using a hammer to pound out the control arm from the steering knuckle! No need for the ball-joint removal tool! See how he lifts the knuckle to improvise ride height while tightening the bolts.

https://youtu.be/l5_AK5mhj3o

[andrewwynn]

That's the video where I learned the tuning fork trick. (hit the part sideways so it "rings"; you get 100-300 vibrations per second).

[carbob]

I've been searching this site for help with same issue, 105,000 on the clock, both front tension struts replaced 8 years ago. Now some play in the left control arm- according to the dealer that just replaced my rear brake lines due to a major leak. Appears there is some confusion with terminology, my understanding is the arm forward of the hub is the tension strut, it has a big curve to accommodate the axle, the control arm is rearward of the hub and is fairly straight. Both have bushings and appears when you buy either arm, the bushing is already pressed into the arm- addressing the issues with some of the other postings about using a press to replace the bushing. The only challenging part appears to be removing the bushing from the suspension knuckle, most postings and YouTube videos say a tap with a hammer and a prybar should free it. I've never done it before, would like to try it, and wondering if any of those experienced in doing this have any comments or corrections to what I've said?

[andrewwynn]

If there's play in the control arm/wishbone, you should feel a shudder in the steering wheel when you brake gently from about 40-50mph down to 5-10 less.

In addition if you are driving on the top of a crown (eg center freeway lane), and gently curve left/right, the steering wheel will tug against you 2-3x right as the wheel passes dead center.

If those both happen it's been 100% the wishbone.

One side ball joint is swaged in, don't try to hope the inboard bushing is the problem, it's usually the ball joint on the outboard side.

Not a difficult diy.

If the bolt holding the Morse taper into the knuckle was over torqued you'll have some trouble removing.

When I did mine; a few minutes pounding with 4# hammer on the left, fell out with one pry with prybar on right.

If the one you start on fights go to the other side, odds are it will be much easier.

Satisfaction instant and obvious. One the best and easiest fixes.

Alignment needed after.



FYI the aforementioned over torque was self inflicted. I temporarily removed the wishbones I fogot why but put the old ones back in for a week or so until exchanging them for new. Since I was replacing soon I didn't torque I just banged quick with the M18 big gun. Big mistake. Over torqued and turned one hit into dozens.

[EODguy]

+1

I change out front end parts more often than I change cabin filters.... (my roads are shit)

Take the time and change every single thing in your suspension if you're close to 100k or don't know how it was driven or when replaced. This way you'll have a completely fresh suspension (guibos, engine and transmission mounts too) the Bleed My Wallet makes are known for piling up problems when stuff has been deferred.

Now back to Dukes of Hamas...

Sent from my SM-A730F using Tapatalk

[Auto Parts Guy]

I just replaced my front lower control arms with Lemförder arms from FCP. Symptoms were exactly as AndrewWynn described, spot on. Super easy R&R and fixed the issue. Neither one of my ball joint separators were wide enough to work on the LCA so i had to use the ole trusty pickle fork. A few whacks and they were off. Don't forget to tighten the bushing side at the K0 Lage, or the normal ride height position.

I replaced the tension struts and ball joints a while back. Those were easy as well.

And for what it's worth, they are Querlenker und Zugstrebe, or Control Arm and Tension Strut. Sometimes the translation from German to english gets lost. Radius arm and trailing link are typically rear axle suspension components.

[oldskewel]

Originally Posted by Auto Parts Guy

I just replaced my front lower control arms with Lemförder arms from FCP...

Seen in the last pic there, I think the height sensor is installed wrong. The lower of the two links should be closer to pointing straight up, rather than pointing at ~2 o'clock as shown there. At least that's what makes sense to me, I did not check a reference on this.