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Old 06-21-2021, 12:47 PM
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AWR-Fix: Outer CV Joint tips

Just replaced an outer CV joint.

It's about $80 for OEM joint from Fcpeuro; crazy value to replace just the outer joint.

Engineered a couple tricks that should definitely help somebody out.

Main tips:

• remove the top shock tower bolt leave the bottom one loose to let you manipulate the axle end out when needed.

• leave the axle nut on (loose is ok), will make it easier to pry out the axle

• I used a tool meant to grab a tie rod to grab the axle to pry it out of the old joint.



The bolts beyond were spacers since the tie rod clamp was too big to grip axle by itself.

• be ready for a fight it took well over 1000-1500# of force to pull my axle out of the joint

• use floor jack under steering knuckle to hold up the weight Soo it won't pull on the brake line.

• installing, I used a vice grips on the axle, resting against the subframe to allow me to hammer the end of the new axle end



• I recommend having a spare or two circlip: I had two new and the original. All three for damaged I had to refurbish one to get it to install.

• it should only take 3-4 hits with a BFH to set the new joint. If it doesn't, pull off and check the clip

• I made a spline cleaning tool out of an old axle end; I pound it through the hub a few times to scrub out any rust

• test fit the joint both in the hub and on the axle without the circlip to make sure it fits all the way on

• a metal tool in the rotor vents works well too hold the hub when torquing on the axle nut.

• 310 ft·lb/ 420 N·m on the axle nut. Do some math with a big breaker bar and your body weight to figure that out (or use a torque multiplier or torque wrench extension to get high enough torque)



• Leave the strut tower loose until you get the axle back in the hub.

Post to this thread if you need to tackle this job. It was definitely effort to pull the axle out of the old joint and was tedious to get the new one on with the circlip jamming things up.

Took a few hours do to the fighting with stuck parts but it's a straightforward job. 6/10 difficulty.
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Last edited by andrewwynn; 06-21-2021 at 03:50 PM.
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Old 06-21-2021, 03:34 PM
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Is it part number Meyle 3144980005? Did you take more pics? Is the saddle portion under the boot?
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Old 06-21-2021, 03:46 PM
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AWR-Fix: Outer CV Joint tips

That is the part. I ordered as a kit from FCP Euro.

It turns out the joint may be ok the boot was shot and I'm rooting out a strange vibration that didn't go away with the new joint.

I have a boot repair kit I may sell the old joint with the boot if I can confirm the old joint is ok.

Not sure what you mean by saddle. If you mean the crimp for the hose clamp then yes it's just out of view it's the same type shown on the small side of boot
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Old 06-21-2021, 04:06 PM
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The saddle with two bolts on the shaft. Plus an inserted bolt and something else on the right side. Was that used to hammer out the old joint?

Can I call dibs on the reboot kit?
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Old 06-21-2021, 04:15 PM
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Oh u bolt saddle. Yes it's u-bolt around the back.

I used a steel crowbar to pry the axle against the inisde of the joint.
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Old 06-21-2021, 04:52 PM
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Andrew you have done a lot of work on E53 axles...and wrote up the very effective procedure earlier this year I used to free up an axle frozen in the hub.

But once you have the outer CV axle free from the hub, it's usually pretty easy to remove the inner CV axle, particularly on passenger front side - you don't have to remove the stiffening plate.

Why wouldn't you just remove the whole axle and replace the outer CV joint on a bench in a vise?
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Old 06-21-2021, 04:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewwynn View Post
... • be ready for a fight it took well over 1000-1500# of force to pull my axle out of the joint. ...
This seems to be a bit variable - i popped mine out with a couple of light taps with an alloy drift - dead easy.

BUT - I did have a second person, pre-loading the joint (pulling on it), so the c-clip was under tension. A couple of light taps and it just popped out.

Maybe I got lucky, but I'll take the win!
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Old 06-21-2021, 05:24 PM
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AWR-Fix: Outer CV Joint tips

It takes between 40 and 1300# to remove. Just depends if the c clip binds or properly pushes out of the way into the groove. Pushing a 40cm prybar with my feet wasn't enough force I had to slam it about half a dozen times.

I wish I took a pic of the jammed c clip it's a bit of a miracle it didn't permanently fuse the spline in a bad location.

I had the joint held in the hub with the axle nut so it was very much preloaded. Just bad luck with the c clip position. I just had a thought: I prob should have rotated axle and taped with a hammer to shift the clip around. I will definitely do that next time
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Old 06-21-2021, 06:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewwynn View Post
It takes between 40 and 1300# to remove. Just depends if the c clip binds or properly pushes out of the way into the groove. Pushing a 40cm prybar with my feet wasn't enough force I had to slam it about half a dozen times.

I wish I took a pic of the jammed c clip it's a bit of a miracle it didn't permanently fuse the spline in a bad location.

I had the joint held in the hub with the axle nut so it was very much preloaded. Just bad luck with the c clip position. I just had a thought: I prob should have rotated axle and taped with a hammer to shift the clip around. I will definitely do that next time
Yeah, once the c-clip is damaged and jammed, you're in serious trouble.

You have have to sneak up on them, all quiet like...
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Old 06-21-2021, 10:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Effduration View Post

Why wouldn't you just remove the whole axle and replace the outer CV joint on a bench in a vise?
I used the steering knuckle as my vice to hold the joint and pry it off. I was hoping it would be closer to the 40# of force vs 1300 but also didn't want to risk having the same pull from hell risk on the inner c clip which you also can introduce leak at the differential.
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