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#1
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rear window fell down, temp fix?
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#2
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I had to use a small wedge to hold the window up while I awaited delivery of a Dorman window regulator. I put the wedge between the window and the interior rubber gasket. The regulator was a fairly easy fix.
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2003 E53 4.6is, titanium silver, black Nappa interior |
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#3
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Use a body suction cup. A large suction cup will hold it better. Or use a few small cups. Cheap at Harbor Freight.
Small suction cup. https://www.harborfreight.com/2-14-i...-lb-57498.html
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'06 X5 3.0i - bought @143,123 miles (12/26/20) |
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#4
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rear window fell down, temp fix?
Before replacing window regulator on customer 328xi, I just used gorilla tape. Just avoid getting on the paint just three rubber. It will clean off with goo gone. Use a long strip full height of window.
On clients the plastic clip that holds the cable snapped. It could have been fixed with JB Weld but the tape held for a week or ten days waiting for OEM parts from FCP You can pull out the part while window is taped up to determine if you can repair it. I would have repaired for $5 vs. replace having to do again. The cable pulled though the plastic part which was largely intact. It just needed a new end (think: add washer). jB Weld on the end of the cable would have been a better than new repair. Also: window regulators break due to lack of lubrication on the slides. I've been working on what's the best. I've used some Teflon sprays that lasted two years but the recent ones haven't lasted very long I think wax (like you'd use on a ski) might be the best bet. I've measurrd 70% faster speed rolling up a window after one Teflon treatment. I've not had to replace any of my regulators on my 20 year X5 bought in 2015. The driver window was HALF speed when I got the car. I regularly "race" the windows up and down (driver/passenger). When the driver gets behind more than 2" going up or 1" going down it's time for another shot of silicone etc. I have to repair door lock actuator on passenger side so I will figure out the best way to apply some wax to the window edge or go inside the door and apply to the "carpet rail". I will also measure the before and after current draw to get an objective value of how much extra stress is on the parts that break. Any time a door is open for any reason I would look into adding a layer of JB Weld to the plastic clip that breaks. I bought a set of clips shortly after getting the car due to the half speed driver window and everybody saying that's just a warning the window regulator is about to break. Well six years later and my clip is still in the parts box. If you take out the regulator if it's the break i can help you figure out a $5 repair
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2011 E70 • N55 (me) 2012 E70 • N63 (wife) Last edited by andrewwynn; 07-18-2021 at 09:52 AM. |
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#5
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I learned this from the E39 5-series forum...
- If you decide to use a short piece of broomstick or wood, cut a small groove so the glass' bottom end sits on it. - Then zip tie the broomstick so it does not move around. - This is a temp fix, although for some people, it is a permanent fix (solo single people that never open the rear window)...
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1998 E39 528i 5sp MT 2006 E53 X5 3.0 6sp MT |
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#6
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Quote:
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#7
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++ on using wood to support from below. Of course the door panel needs to off to get access for this, but you'll probably want to get that panel off anyway to see what is wrong. Depending on what wood scraps you may have, just make sure nothing will shift once you put them in there and it will be as permanent as you want.
On what actually broke, the rear is similar to the front, except: - only one window clip and regulator clip per window on the rear, vs. 2 on each front window - rear window clip is slightly different vs. the front due to a slightly different spacing from the bottom edge of the window glass to the hole the window clip goes through. I have another post on here somewhere with details - something like a 4.5mm difference that can be shimmed if you really need to use a front window clip on a rear window. - the cable attaches differently to the regulator clip on the rears = two cable ends with spring loaded ferrules attach to the one regulator clip. But you really don't know what is broken in there until you open it up. Could be window clip, regulator clip, or the regulator itself (cable, plastic parts, ...). In my experience, even the Genuine BMW window clips will not survive removal and reinstall, so you'll definitely need a new one of those. If you have the window shades on the rear side windows, there is an extra step required to remove the vertical pillar thing. And there is a trick to it that I always have to look up to find - you need to pry a locking thing at the top of the pillar, and you either lever it up or down to get it free, and whatever I do is always wrong until I look it up. Possibly related to quantum mechanics, I'm sure.
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2001 X5 3.0i, 203k miles, AT, owned since 2014 |
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#8
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There is a hidden t20 I think at the bottom and a hidden spring clip that you locate by a tiny notch at the top.
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2011 E70 • N55 (me) 2012 E70 • N63 (wife) |
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#9
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pvc pipe cut to an appropriate length with a notch in it to hold glass also makes a nice, temporary prop
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#10
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![]() Which method was picked? With pictures?
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'06 X5 3.0i - bought @143,123 miles (12/26/20) |
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