Home Forums Articles How To's FAQ Register
Go Back   Xoutpost.com > BMW SAV Forums > X5 (E53) Forum
Arnott
User Name
Password
Member List Premier Membership Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Xoutpost server transfer and maintenance is occurring....
Xoutpost is currently undergoing a planned server migration.... stay tuned for new developments.... sincerely, the management


Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #11  
Old 08-03-2021, 07:28 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: New York
Posts: 23
Magister88 is on a distinguished road
@andrewwynn
Quote:
My rule for non OEM parts is when it's easy to access and not mission critical (you don't live where it's life threatening if heater valve breaks closed) and won't damage or prevent engine from operating it's fair game (bent my own rules a bit not realizing how hard it was to swap an aux fan geez BMW).
Yeah i have been following similar rules for OEM/aftermarket parts, mission critical must be OEM or OE but with BMW logo scraped off.

@80stech
Quote:
The coolant temp dropping at times is a function of the DME controlled thermostat heater and is normal and the reason why the dash guage is programmed to stay in the middle over that range.
@andrewwynn
Quote:
The reason for the non temp gauge on the dash pointing to noon from damaging levels of hot pot to damaging levels of cold is literally to prevent customers asking too many questions during warranty period. (as according to tech builtin). They don't think the average user can handle the truth (literally).
@Clavurion
Quote:
Coolant temp should drop when you accelerate and warming element on thermostat is activated. But the basic temp seems a little low.
Yeah i was under the impression it should stay fairly close to the set point temp. I think the stock t-stats is 95C for 3.0 and higher for the 4.4, 4.6 & 4.8. The one i got is 93C one. so the basic temp is inline i believe unless you are talking about drop to 81 not being normal. I know the idiot gauge does not change from 75 - 1?? hence why i was using the Test function in the cluster and the Ibus interface on the android unit. it is also more clear by reading the paper posted by Clavurion and it seems to be okay as far as operation goes unless i am misinterpreting what you are telling me


@andrewwynn
Quote:
When the tstat fails open it will take longer to get up to temp and won't even reach temp when ambient is low.
Yeah it gest their quickly with < 10 minutes to 93C. so i guess its not going bad yet.

Quote:
If your heater valve is stuck open you have an extra radiator running that is in the loop and cooling the engine even when tstat is closed. Logic dictates that will make the engine run a little cooler than the set point so your symptoms seem to match the conditions described.
Yeah this make sense, it would contribute to cooling the engine even more.

When it got stuck i believe (unless its electrical), the most noticeable is that the air of the driver vent starts to come in very hot when no other adj where made to climate controls and pass side is okay. connecting the scan tool:
Heat exchanger temp:
Left: 88 - 89C (190F) almost engine coolant temp.
Right: 22C (73f)

is that not enough evidence that the heater value is going bad?
__________________
2004 x5 3.0i AT.
Reply With Quote

Sponsored Links

  #12  
Old 08-03-2021, 07:32 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: New York
Posts: 23
Magister88 is on a distinguished road
Quote:
Originally Posted by workingonit View Post
The pointer of the coolant temperature gauge in the instrument cluster is located in the mid-position at coolant temperatures of 75oC - 113 o C in centre position.

I don't know much about the BMW M54 engine yet, but my experiences over 55 years with other
  • 1) aluminum block/aluminum head engines,
  • 2) iron block/aluminum head engines,
  • 3) iron block/iron head engines
tell me that 113C (235.4F) is too high. I'd want the dash gauge to warn me about that temperature approaching, long before it was reached.

Operating temps, & over-temp and/or overheat experiences:
1) aluminum block & heads:
  • a) '62 Olds F-85 with the 215c.i. V-8, that needed to be kept under 200F, or the head gaskets failed (2x),
  • b) '08 Cobalt & '09 HHR with Ecotec all-aluminum engines, both run around 180F-217F (when the fan automatically kicks in)...the HHR experienced 245F, with no damage (1x, thru hose clamp failure), but never again, I hope.

2) iron block with aluminum heads:
  • a) streetable engines always kept at gauge-displayed optimal running temps, no overheat experiences & no true temperatures known,
  • b) race engine (427/441 c.i. 635 rwhp, was always temp-monitored and kept cooler than 200F, due to large alum. radiator, dual fans, separate transmission cooler/fan system, no T-stat (flow restrictor used instead), and a 55 gpm electric water pump. Goal was to run as cool as possible for higher horsepower, less chance of head gasket failure (14.1:1 compression ratio)

3) iron block with iron heads: the bulk of my experience comes with this combination. There were only two overheating instances overall, one survived it, the other engine didn't.
  • a) '66 Chevelle had a mild 327-331c.i. (300hp) at first, and overheated badly (off scale), when its' first electric fan relay fried, far away from any parts store. I always carry a spare relay now, after electric fan conversions. I raced it later that day, and tore it down at home afterwards (decided to upgrade radiator, cam, lifters, manifold, carb), to check the head gaskets. They were OK. A survivor.
  • b) '86 S-10 extended cab pickup, while driving to work, the temp gauge went off-scale suddenly in freeway traffic, and I pulled off the road. Don't know what happened, it was so sudden, but the head gaskets both failed, and I had the engine (2.8L V-6) replaced.

I've read a lot about BMW cooling problems, long before I ever thought of owning one. That's why I specifically asked my friend that acquired the X5 that he traded to me (for the '66 Chevelle drag-car) to be sure to repair/replace/restore the cooling system, which he did (except for the viscous clutch & fan, inexplicably). I observed much of his work being done....

Of course, I immediately put in a hi-power electric fan (3000 cfm), and thought it was good, until I was advised not to trust the BMW temp gauge. Since then, I've added an unused spare smartphone to my unused center ashtray, just to display the REAL coolant temperature at all times (via Torque Pro android app). I have it set to alarm me if I become distracted, and the temperature rises past 220F (104C). I figure that if my two Ecotec engines are Ok at, or below, that temperature, then my X5 should be OK too.
I have the Ibus interface on my android head unit, it starts when the unit turns on and shows the temp of coolant. a bit slower than the cluster but quick enough. i don't use the 3 position gauge. also my temp never exceeded 97C when idle in traffic on hot day. I think i can setup an alert if temp goes above certain threshold.
__________________
2004 x5 3.0i AT.
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 08-03-2021, 07:32 PM
andrewwynn's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Racine, WI
Posts: 10,817
andrewwynn will become famous soon enough
That indicates the valve has failed but what was missed is that will for sure cool the engine somewhat. So if the temp is a little low that would be expected. The heater core is on the engine side of the thermostat.
__________________
2011 E70 • N55 (me)
2012 E70 • N63 (wife)
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 08-03-2021, 07:37 PM
andrewwynn's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Racine, WI
Posts: 10,817
andrewwynn will become famous soon enough
I would program an up to temp alert for something like 80c. The needle would go to noon before my car got to closed loop. I can't imagine how many miles I drove rich (my mpg was horrible for months)
__________________
2011 E70 • N55 (me)
2012 E70 • N63 (wife)
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 08-04-2021, 05:01 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: New York
Posts: 23
Magister88 is on a distinguished road
Smile

Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewwynn View Post
That indicates the valve has failed but what was missed is that will for sure cool the engine somewhat. So if the temp is a little low that would be expected. The heater core is on the engine side of the thermostat.
Yeah i will order the gates heater valve. and see how it holds up. I will see if i can have an alert for both low & high it would be great.

Thank you everyone for the feedback.
__________________
2004 x5 3.0i AT.
Reply With Quote
  #16  
Old 08-04-2021, 05:16 PM
andrewwynn's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Racine, WI
Posts: 10,817
andrewwynn will become famous soon enough
You can clamp hose shut to test.
__________________
2011 E70 • N55 (me)
2012 E70 • N63 (wife)
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On





All times are GMT -4. The time now is 06:10 AM.
vBulletin, Copyright 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd. SEO by vBSEO 3.6.0
© 2017 Xoutpost.com. All rights reserved. Xoutpost.com is a private enthusiast site not associated with BMW AG.
The BMW name, marks, M stripe logo, and Roundel logo as well as X3, X5 and X6 designations used in the pages of this Web Site are the property of BMW AG.
This web site is not sponsored or affiliated in any way with BMW AG or any of its subsidiaries.