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  #21  
Old 08-05-2021, 11:56 AM
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I recently replaced a rear axle with a Cardone rebuilt. Overall seems to be a good axle. One problem I had was that the holes in the metal part of the inner boot were the wrong size and I had to drill them out. It was a pain in the ass as I didn't want metal shaving falling into the CV joint. Other than that though, seemed like a good rebuild.
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  #22  
Old 08-05-2021, 02:24 PM
jac jac is offline
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I bought both axles from rockauto. One was the cardone part# 669255. This was 6 months ago, but with the pandemic I have not driven that much, but so far so good.
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  #23  
Old 08-06-2021, 12:34 AM
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Just got back from a test drive. Sound seems to be more frequent and can be repeated during straight acceleration. Next step is to drop the front driveshaft and check the splines.

Ops, camera man forgot to press record so no sound clip.

More good reviews for the Cardone axles, if it’s not the driveshaft then I’ll pick up some Cardone CV-axles!
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  #24  
Old 08-09-2021, 11:59 AM
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Removing the front driveshaft is rather easy. A couple diy's refer to removing the exhaust and sway bar, these steps are not necessary!
  1. Jack up the front end so both wheels are off the ground
  2. remove front wheels
  3. Remove aluminum reinforcement plate. Note: 6x16mm bolts with 16mm nuts on top. Use an open end wrench to counter hold top nuts
  4. With the front plate removed you will have easy access to the driveshaft bolts. Remove all 6x16mm bolts and counter hold the 3x16mm nuts. Note: A flathead screwdrivers dropped in the brake rotor cooling channel will prevent the rotor from spinning past the calliper. Do this on both sides to prevent the driveshaft from spinning, reposition for each bolt. Be careful not the strip the nuts! My 16mm wrench was loose and the 15mm wouldn't fit (I tried the imperial size without success). I used a decent amount of penetrating fluid and spun the bolt to loose any rust before holding the nut.
  5. With all 6 bolts removed, pull out the flex disc guibo.
  6. lightly tap the front driveshaft out of the splines using a 2x4 and hammer. Spin the driveshaft with every tap to ensure it's coming out evenly.
  7. Once out of the splines it will have plenty of room to come out near the transfer case.

Attached below is the splines on my driveshaft. Other then a slight amount of rust they look brand new and very dry. Any grease recommendations?
Name:  E53_Driveshaft_Spline.jpeg
Views: 121
Size:  134.7 KB

I'll be ordering new Cardone axles later today.
Left part#: 669255
Right part#: 669256

If anyone has any other ideas what could be causing the clunking let me know, Thanks!
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  #25  
Old 08-09-2021, 01:24 PM
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I put just cv-joint grease.
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  #26  
Old 08-09-2021, 02:34 PM
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Grease with moly is really good for sliding. Could just use anything really as to minimize rust would be the best bet.

But its really good you caught it early on. The splines looks to be really serviceable with only a little bit of rolling on the edges.
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  #27  
Old 11-07-2022, 02:03 AM
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20,000kms and the replacement Cardone axles still going strong.

Cheers, E53Envyy
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  #28  
Old 11-07-2022, 11:41 AM
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Cool. Mine has all four Cardone axles. 2,000+ miles and no issues so far.
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  #29  
Old 11-10-2022, 12:08 AM
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I replaced the front CV axles with TRQ parts from 1aauto.com. About 7500 miles so far. Working great. Around $110 US each side and I think they have a 10 year warranty.

I also have TRQ front wheel bearings replaced at the same time. I think they were made in Taiwan.
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  #30  
Old 11-10-2022, 12:10 AM
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http://https://www.1aauto.com/bmw-x5-front-driver-and-passenger-side-2-piece-cv-axle-assembly-set-trq-csa82468/i/1aacs00080

Set is on sale $180 for both sides
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