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  #11  
Old 10-04-2021, 07:09 AM
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My X5 had a water pump replaced before I bought it. If I need to replace it, I'm upgrading.
A Stewart pump is high dollar but worth it.
https://www.stewartcomponents.com/in...product_id=145

Does the diagram above show all the coolant system? Does the pic show all hoses that need replacing during an overhaul?
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  #12  
Old 10-04-2021, 08:23 AM
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looks like that's just for the 6-cylinder engines... no diagrams that I can see.

Hoses and other assorted bits haven been checked and/or replaced in the past 2 years since this is the 3rd mishap in the cooling system... I hope this will be the last for a while!
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  #13  
Old 10-05-2021, 04:19 AM
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OK had a look at the water pump (no picture). There was a lot of rust on the outside where the pulley connects, so I suspect a leaking seal. The pump rotor had actually grazed the sides of the housing and was utterly seized in the bearing. No brand to be seen... had it replaced with an OEM unit. Both belts replaced as well, purrs as a kitten!
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  #14  
Old 12-08-2021, 07:58 AM
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CEL is my eternal companion it seems, I guess it gives off a christmassy atmosphere?

I've had the camshaft code for a while as well as the O2 sensor, but the fuelling faults are new...




I'm suspecting the VANOS has an issue which causes both the camshaft error and the O2 sensor error, considering the sensor is new and has been swapped to check for faults.

Would an injector cleaner be a good idea as a first try? Or are there other suspects for these codes?
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  #15  
Old 12-08-2021, 11:38 AM
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Guntherrex's moneypit

I've had a car give similar symptoms when the oil fill cap broke. The cage and post up the middle no longer sealed correctly so check that, also easy to clean vanos solenoids.

Dirty injectors usually give you random misfire codes nothing on the valve train side of things.

If you have a code specific to CPS there is usually a fault in the device. Trade sides to see if the faulty moves. Else replace. New ≠ fixed it could be a defective from new situation.
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  #16  
Old 12-08-2021, 11:41 AM
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Cheers for the advice, I'll have a look at the oil filler. Solenoids is also something I wanted to try, it's just cold wet and miserable out at the moment
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  #17  
Old 12-08-2021, 10:49 PM
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I would investigate that camshaft code 21. That frequently pops up before a catastrophic timing chain guide failure on the M62.
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  #18  
Old 12-10-2021, 07:14 AM
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timing chain has been replaced about 40k km ago.... I'm going to assume it's going to last a bit longer than that

I was looking at the pelican parts site for the solenoid job, but it's clustered in with the timing cover removal... If I have to guess I'll have to remove the fan and shroud, but not sure if the vacuum system and cooling pump with plumbing need to be removed too to get to the solenoids?
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  #19  
Old 12-10-2021, 12:33 PM
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When timing chain was replaced did you install new OEM tensioner? It would be horrible if you suffer a quick failure if not. The tensioner is the root cause of chain guide failure.

I have a feeling the SAP pipe might be in the way but any soft piping should move out of the way.

The only trick is you need a special socket to remove them on m62.
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  #20  
Old 12-14-2021, 05:22 AM
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yeah I saw a thin walled socket is needed to get into the space of the solenoid.

I got a cheap headlight polishing kit while ordering some tools and decided to try it on the rear lights in the trunk, those seem to be of an inferior quality to the ones on the outside which are not faded at all. overall the process was pretty easy since I took out the units, the result is a big improvement though after 12 hours the UV coat was still sticky... hope it's dry when I get home today. Then to see if it holds up

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