Quote:
Originally Posted by Oldmactech
Ok, so I finally pulled the alternator and had it tested by a certified recycler. 100% good.
Oddly, as I was pulling the alternation I noticed the connector was good and tight but the push in locking clip was missing. I have a replacement clip not a perfect fit but if I bend it a bit should work. Don’t think it’s the problem but the rebuilder said the alternator had been worked on at some point so I assume whoever reinstalled lost the clip and didn’t say anything about it…..
I’ll put it back together and see if I can get the clip to work, then move on if it’s not the problem..
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I'm not sure what the locking clip is there, but if you found something wrong, that is a good thing to fix, of course. Every connection to the alternator of course needs to be tight, clean, torqued properly on the plastic coated nut. Connections to the starter and jump port too. On these 3.0i's, the alt cable goes from the B+ connection on the alternator to the starter, then from the starter to the engine bay jump port, then through the jump port nut to the back side, then from there to the battery positive terminal, after making it through the pyro fuse.
But I would not put much (any?) faith in the "certified recycler" saying it is 100% good. From the beginning, your description of the problem shows it is intermittent. Sometimes present, sometimes not. If the tester checked it out when the problem was not present, they could give you a clear diagnosis that is wrong.
I agree with AndrewWynn's previous advice on this, other than that I would rate the difficulty of slip ring replacement as much harder. Andrew and I seem to be maybe the only ones on here that have done that procedure so far. I'd rate it an 8 out of 10, where 10 is brain surgery or a blindfolded transmission rebuild. Maybe not super hard to do, but it's pretty easy to fail at = mess it up by having one of those copper wires break while surgically removing the epoxy coating.
09-23-2021, 01:27 PM
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