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  #21  
Old 09-30-2021, 04:25 PM
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What’s the current reading on your amount of camber. You can usually get a good estimate Using your smart phone but I can get a very accurate measurement if yousend a photo hi zoom from fire behind your car
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  #22  
Old 09-30-2021, 05:17 PM
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Double check what oldskewel is showing you. There is an adjuster at the bottom rear of the lower control arm (a-frame) and one at the upper front control arm which you can't see with the tire on (which is why I think the picture he posted is taken upside down of the upper one,) One of those has slipped (or turned) on you.
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  #23  
Old 09-30-2021, 05:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewwynn View Post
What’s the current reading on your amount of camber. You can usually get a good estimate Using your smart phone but I can get a very accurate measurement if yousend a photo hi zoom from fire behind your car
I have a magnetic tool I can place on the rotor with a bubble level. I'll also get a picture of the wheel kicking out for a good visual indicator.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 80stech View Post
Double check what oldskewel is showing you. There is an adjuster at the bottom rear of the lower control arm (a-frame) and one at the upper front control arm which you can't see with the tire on (which is why I think the picture he posted is taken upside down of the upper one,) One of those has slipped (or turned) on you.
Yes, the upper control arm adjustment controls nearly all the toe-adjustment. This one is such a pain because the wheel hides it pretty well. I'll check it too just to be certain.
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  #24  
Old 09-30-2021, 06:01 PM
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According to BMW toe is primarily the bolt on the inner bolt of the "swing part". Camber from the upper forward control arm. They both affect both. The wishbone affects both. (not adjustable).
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Old 09-30-2021, 06:08 PM
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[mention]RocketyMan [/mention] make sure to include both back wheels from directly behind so I can get a horizontal references from the bumper.


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  #26  
Old 09-30-2021, 06:19 PM
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Originally Posted by andrewwynn View Post
According to BMW toe is primarily the bolt on the inner bolt of the "swing part". Camber from the upper forward control arm. They both affect both. The wishbone affects both. (not adjustable).


Are you saying #6 does mostly camber? I thought that does toe since #11 is non-adjustable. Therefore, #6 would adjust the toe as it pivots about the same plane of #11.

I understand the swingarm that both bushes adjust a little of one or the other.
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Old 09-30-2021, 06:34 PM
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7 is the eccentric bolt for camber.


18 is the eccentric bolt for toe.

18 effectively moves the bottom of the wheel carrier fire/aft.

7 pushes the top front of the wheel carrier in/out

Since neither are on a horizonal plane, each will affect both.

It's largely why I didn't do my own rear alignment while I have no concerns doing toe alignment on the front.
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  #28  
Old 09-30-2021, 07:16 PM
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Originally Posted by RocketyMan View Post
The springs only dropped the rear 1" about. Maybe it's possible the springs are still settling in--but that's been since about over 10k miles ago.

I had an alignment soon after I changed the springs to H&R.
As mentioned in an earlier post I would take it to a shop to have it aligned. If something is wrong with the suspension a good shop will find it.

If the springs did any settling that would usually be in the first few miles after installation. That is, unless you have been way overloading the springs recently. I've had H&R springs for many years--no settling.
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  #29  
Old 09-30-2021, 08:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 80stech View Post
Double check what oldskewel is showing you. There is an adjuster at the bottom rear of the lower control arm (a-frame) and one at the upper front control arm which you can't see with the tire on (which is why I think the picture he posted is taken upside down of the upper one,) One of those has slipped (or turned) on you.
The pic I posted is not upside down as I see it. If the text in the pic is right-side up, the pic is as well. No guarantees what the site or your browser are doing. I think things are clearly labeled in the pic as far as swing arm, starboard, etc. The thread I link to above has that pic with more info and explanation.

Regarding toe vs camber alignment back there, the forward upper control arm is called the "guide link" and its eccentric bolt (#7) and washer (#8) are for primarily adjusting toe. The lower control arm is called a "swing arm" and the eccentric bolt (#18) + washer (#19) on there are for adjusting camber. I probably have bolt and nut sizes and torque specs in that thread. There is some cross-coupling of toe and camber, so you iterate between the two. Also toe has a much tighter spec than camber, so toe is the final one to be adjusted.

I have done both toe and camber on my car, probably reported details in that thread linked above.

Distance from the underside of the fender lip to the underside of the lower wheel rim will be only very slightly affected by camber change, so I believe the measurement will still be sufficiently reliable. Main purpose of that would be to see if the rear is still 1" lower as you modified it to be, or if it has dropped lower, which would explain some camber change.

To measure camber accurately, my method is to park it on flat and level ground (at least side-to-side), and use a straight edge on the wheel rim edges, measuring camber angle (relative to gravity, but since ground is confirmed level, it is a direct measurement) using the Klein Tools 935 DAGL, which easily gives better than 0.1* accuracy.

https://www.kleintools.com/catalog/l...ammable-angles
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  #30  
Old 09-30-2021, 09:31 PM
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Originally Posted by oldskewel View Post
The pic I posted is not upside down as I see it. If the text in the pic is right-side up, the pic is as well. No guarantees what the site or your browser are doing. I think things are clearly labeled in the pic as far as swing arm, starboard, etc. The thread I link to above has that pic with more info and explanation.

Regarding toe vs camber alignment back there, the forward upper control arm is called the "guide link" and its eccentric bolt (#7) and washer (#8) are for primarily adjusting toe. The lower control arm is called a "swing arm" and the eccentric bolt (#18) + washer (#19) on there are for adjusting camber. I probably have bolt and nut sizes and torque specs in that thread. There is some cross-coupling of toe and camber, so you iterate between the two. Also toe has a much tighter spec than camber, so toe is the final one to be adjusted.

I have done both toe and camber on my car, probably reported details in that thread linked above.

Distance from the underside of the fender lip to the underside of the lower wheel rim will be only very slightly affected by camber change, so I believe the measurement will still be sufficiently reliable. Main purpose of that would be to see if the rear is still 1" lower as you modified it to be, or if it has dropped lower, which would explain some camber change.

To measure camber accurately, my method is to park it on flat and level ground (at least side-to-side), and use a straight edge on the wheel rim edges, measuring camber angle (relative to gravity, but since ground is confirmed level, it is a direct measurement) using the Klein Tools 935 DAGL, which easily gives better than 0.1* accuracy.

https://www.kleintools.com/catalog/l...ammable-angles
Yes, this is what I originally thought to be true for that particular control arm.

As an update, I did find the #6 control arm bolt, (#7 & #8) to be a tiny bit loose. But not substantially. MAYBE the big bump would be harsh enough to jolt the eccentric bolt loose-ish.


More pictures to come.
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