Rear tire lean at the top

[andrewwynn]

Mine lasted about two years with worn ball joints and appreciable neg camber until one day the rear tires wore through the steel belts within two weeks. You won't notice when that transition happens so it is smarter to fix before it destroys your tires.

[bcredliner]

Originally Posted by Vanguard

It was measured on an alignment rack. The truck is from Michigan and has some rust on the hardware. Guy was hesitant to mess with it and I didn't want it turning into a bigger mess. The tires aren't wearing unevenly, so I agreed to having him align the front and leave the rear alone.

About 2 years ago I replaced the front subframe with a used part. Over the last couple of weeks, I changed out the entire front suspension - new struts, strut mounts, control arms (upper and lower), stabilizer bar end links and the inner and outer tie rods. The back just got new shocks and stabilzer bar end links.

I did a rough alignment using the string method and took it in to have it checked. The parts are now on order for the bac

Generally speaking, when the front needs rebuilding so does the back and that is often around 100,000 miles.

The rear could be within specs and still have more wear on the inside of the tires than the outside.

Good call to order the parts for the rear.

[andrewwynn]

Originally Posted by bcredliner

Generally speaking, when the front needs rebuilding so does the back and that is often around 100,000 miles.

The rear could be within specs and still have more wear on the inside of the tires than the outside.

Good call to order the parts for the rear.

Mine made it to 180,000 before the rear or front needed parts. Clearly the PO drove mostly highway miles.

The spec + inner wear is because it moves out of spec under load. The wheels toe out during braking causing very fast inside edge wear.

(Two weeks through the steel belts for me; the "redneck wear bars")


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[bcredliner]

Originally Posted by andrewwynn

Mine made it to 180,000 before the rear or front needed parts. Clearly the PO drove mostly highway miles.

The spec + inner wear is because it moves out of spec under load. The wheels toe out during braking causing very fast inside edge wear.

(Two weeks through the steel belts for me; the "redneck wear bars")


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The alignment specs take into account normal load.

[andrewwynn]

Originally Posted by bcredliner

The alignment specs take into account normal load.

Yes but not how much it steers under load. (because of course it's not supposed to)


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[bcredliner]

Originally Posted by andrewwynn

Yes but not how much it steers under load. (because of course it's not supposed to)


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I think I agree but am not sure what you mean by how much it steers.

[bcredliner]

Here's an easy read about alignment: https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiret...e.jsp?techid=4

[andrewwynn]

Originally Posted by bcredliner

I think I agree but am not sure what you mean by how much it steers.

When the ball joint wears it's not obvious under load but the suspension shifts and effectively "steers" while you brake.

In the case of e53, I've measured over 1° of toe out steering when the wishbone ball joint wears.

The ball that wears it's behind the hub and its job is to hold the wheel pointing forward and not let the wheel steer left: right.

Since the centerline of the tire/wheel is outbound of the centerline of the hub, the torque applied is toe out during braking, toe in during acceleration, but the effect from braking is clearly more significant since the inner edge of the tires always get shredded

[bcredliner]

In the case of worn suspension, I agree. In the case of a good suspension a proper alignment accommodates for normal braking and turning. The range of the specs will also provide for fairly aggressive driving styles.

[Fifty150hs]

Originally Posted by nick325xit 5spd

did the alignment specialist reference the alignment specs for the E53? they are designed to have significant rear camber.

that said, at 134k, all original bushings and balljoints are trash.

It seems most alignment guys, unless they are familiar with BMWs, don't understand what is normal BMW rear camber. Ball joints are the first thing I would replace.