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  #1  
Old 03-03-2022, 05:01 AM
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2001 4.4i Crank no start....yeah I know..its old

G'DAy everyone!!


So I am working on this freakin pile of...s.......for quite some time...
Had the engine and tranny out and replaced all the gaskets, O-Rings, Crush washers and the head gasket and heaps of coolant hoses, new vacuum hoses, too
Engine back in.....started up....cranks but does not want to start.
Check the usual suspects....fuel pump, fuel fuse (#47) fuel relay, fuel filter is less than 1000ks old and worked fine before I took engine out. Everthing mentioned before works fine and I checked it. There is no 12 Volt at the connector for the fuel pump and there is no spark.......
I had the tone wheel (I reckon you call it reluctor wheel) bend when I removed the jesus bolt and had that tone wheel replaced.......still no start....INPA keeps telling me 111 No crank sensor signal......Well I checked the wiring from the DME coming down to the sensor. That is all good. Sensor generates 2Volts when cranking and the resistance is 629 ohms so sensor itself is good, too. Now I start to think it could be the EWS.......Is that a typical EWS action?? It does not give power to the crank sensor when its damaged or so?? I also replaced the timing chain guides and had to retime the engine but I was told that it is not a timing issue when there is no signal at all?? Any ideas?? Please.....if you say now....."it could be this..." I will always ask why do you think so.......please give me a reason for you suggestion......very much appreciated. Cheers
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  #2  
Old 03-03-2022, 05:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tasmania68 View Post
G'DAy everyone!!


So I am working on this freakin pile of...s.......for quite some time...
Had the engine and tranny out and replaced all the gaskets, O-Rings, Crush washers and the head gasket and heaps of coolant hoses, new vacuum hoses, too
Engine back in.....started up....cranks but does not want to start.
Check the usual suspects....fuel pump, fuel fuse (#47) fuel relay, fuel filter is less than 1000ks old and worked fine before I took engine out. Everthing mentioned before works fine and I checked it. There is no 12 Volt at the connector for the fuel pump and there is no spark.......
I had the tone wheel (I reckon you call it reluctor wheel) bend when I removed the jesus bolt and had that tone wheel replaced.......still no start....INPA keeps telling me 111 No crank sensor signal......Well I checked the wiring from the DME coming down to the sensor. That is all good. Sensor generates 2Volts when cranking and the resistance is 629 ohms so sensor itself is good, too. Now I start to think it could be the EWS.......Is that a typical EWS action?? It does not give power to the crank sensor when its damaged or so?? I also replaced the timing chain guides and had to retime the engine but I was told that it is not a timing issue when there is no signal at all?? Any ideas?? Please.....if you say now....."it could be this..." I will always ask why do you think so.......please give me a reason for you suggestion......very much appreciated. Cheers
You want to check the open circuit voltage to the crank sensor, I recall that it's on the end of the engine as it takes signal from the flywheel. Should be about 2.5v. This will determine if your dme has a path to measure the signal generated.
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2003 4.6, esotril blue, over 215,000KM. Every previous owner failed to keep up the vehicle maintenance. Restoration project.
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Old 03-11-2022, 02:05 PM
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Hi Aurelius


Well I had this measured and the crankshaft sensor generates 2 Volts while cranking. I read it should generate between 1 and 2 Volts so that was with the slightly bend flexplate. I have a new flexplate in now because my local BMW dealer told me that it is the bend flexplate and this is why it does not start up and no crankshaft sensor signal in INPA. But even with the slightly bend flexplate it showed 2 Volts on the open circuit. So still now crankshaft sensor signal.

I will check if my keys that I have are still listed in my EWS but should be otherwise it would not be cranking.
And I will also check if the EWS actually communicates with the DME but the only error code I get is "no crankshaft sensor signal" in INPA.
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  #4  
Old 03-19-2022, 07:45 PM
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Hi everybody and G'Day from Tasmania!!

So I did some measuring yesterday regarding that CPS code in INPA (Said:" No crankshaft sensor signal" )

So I turned the key to pos 2 with 12 volts on to the DME, then I went under the car and measured if I can read something on the connector to the CPS. I unplugged the connector from the CPS and backprobed it: 0 Volts. Was not really convinced that my backprobes (needles from my beloved wife) would do the trick so I took them and stuck them in the front of the connector (the female terminals of the connector): 0 Volts. I expected 5 Volts but nothing
2) open the bonnet and backprobed the connector to the DME (the one coming from the cps up to the DME). I measured 12 Volt with pin 32 and 46 and I measured 12 Volts also with pins 32 and 45. I was really surprised because I expected 5 Volts according the Bentley wiring diagram (its attached). I must say that I know F..... all about car electrics but maybe someone here can explain why I am measuring 12 Volts here and not 5 Volts??????

So up top you ve got 3 wires (32,46,45) going into the DME but only 2 wires actually connect to the CPS (36 and 32) and there is no physical wire inside the cable hose of the CPS coming from the DME and going down. Inside its a "metallic insulation" and I assume that is for 45 ground. I cut that cable open (a small slot in it) and saw that ( I did the measurement down at the connector of the CPS before I cut it open.
Looking at all this I reckon that I ve got a torn wire or cable somewhere which prevents voltage from the DME going to the CPS and back.
I am wondering how to make your own cable connection because I have to use a physical cable coming from ground (45) and it just ends somewhere
What I also noticed was that the battery light in the dash was flashing very fast when I had the connectors of the DME out of there regular connector in order to be able to backprobe them so I reckon the connection was not 100% but enough to measure the voltage.

What I really dont understand is why I measured 12 Volts at the DME and not 5 Volts. Anybody got an idea??

Cheers boys
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