Fuel Filter replaced

[Spartan]

Hey all, After my saga with that intermittant running and gradual coughing and stalling out, I mentioned it was the actual fuel filter that was the very issue. I have now driven around 6000km without any more faults showing up on the dash. I learned so much from the many helpers here and for thst I am greatful.
So, since doing the filter change it has come with many words of wisdom and advice. The one that has me a little baffled is there were a frequent mentions of disconnecting the battery for 24 hours to reset the whole system and then the fuel metered out would be much better than stuck at the pressure it was for the old filter.
I think I understand their meaning, the pressure for the blockked filter would hae been set as high as it needed to be to push fuel through the blocked filter and now it is still pushing at the same pressure but in a clesn filter, there by using more fuel. This could explain why the L/100 it stuck on 8.9/100 when previously it would be as low as 7.8/100 on a road trip.


Does anyone know anything about this procedure or has heard about this at all?

Any info or help always appreciated.
Jeff

[andrewwynn]

To reset the fuel system you just use test 21 on the OBC "hidden menu"

FYI unless you drove like 400-500,000 miles you did not plug your filter any issue resolved was related to the pressure regulator.

[wpoll]

Originally Posted by andrewwynn

FYI unless you drove like 400-500,000 miles you did not plug your filter any issue resolved was related to the pressure regulator.

No pressure regulator in the fuel filter on the diesels, Andrew.

And Spartan - what you have heard about pressure sounds like nonsense, or at least doesn't apply to diesels. The fuel filter is under very low pressure compared to the output pressure of the HP fuel pump feeding the injectors (that's an understatement!!).

Is your fuel consumption reading long term or short term?

I use CONS1 to monitor each tank of fuel (short term) and CONS2 as a long term measure. If I remove the battery or reset CONS2 it then reads higher than normal for a very long time (months or years) - i have to have travelled tens of thousands of kms before it get back down to the low values once seen...

Currently (after replacing my battery a year or so ago, CONS2 reads 9.0l/100km - it used to read about 8.6l/100km. But I can easliy get 6.7l/100km on CONS1 during a road trip.

[Spartan]

Thank you both, When I got the car, it was always reading dependan on my driving habits in Cons1. ie: metro it would be a little higher at about 8.6 while hwy it settled at 7.4. It seemed to respond to the conditions reasonably quickly. As an aside thought I considered it may have been because of the condition of the old filter, being that it allowed poor flow.


Now since changing, it was on 9.0 for the first two weeks then I did some long road trips and saw 8.8 briefly now back to 8.9.

Both Cons1 and Cons2 read the same, I have much to learn about setting this computer up. I know how to access it and turn on the funcion to do so...but I fear it might be linked to the original radio from some of the reading I have done. Please correct me if I am wrong though. I cannot set the time or any other functions, let alone understand fully the Cons1 and Cons2 purposes.


I will reset the number 21 and see how that goes. Never anything to lose and the tank full distance gives me and indicated 971km range, which I think is the same as befoer the filter change.

I think I might look into finding the air filter and replace that as well if necessary.

Is there anything in the exhaust flow that could ease restrictions also?


One thing I have learnt is that there are three main points to follow with combustion engines for economy and performance. Clean unrestricted and even flow of fuel, correct clean cold unrestricted airflow and good evecuation of all exhaust gasses equal to the combustive amount of pressure produced. If any O2 sensors are inline they should be checked and Catalytic boxes examined for damage to flow considerations. Mufflers and pipe bends should also be considered as mitigating factors of restriction and back flow pressure. I


As this is my first privately owned diesel. I am not sure of what is actually involved in much of the areas I have mentioned. I drove a lot of diesel powered military vehicles, but other than routine checks we did not work on them. As mine is an extremely late built E53 it does inherit some issues on the parts from the E70, so far it seems to be in the suspension only. I still have the better E53d motor an trans. So having said that, is there anything in the air filter and exhaust I should be aware of? I have observed the rear mufflers are strange beasts as far as the pipe goes in but then comes out again at the same end and is extremely small running alongside the box!

[wpoll]

If you cannot reset the CONSUM1 or CONSUM2 values (since you have no MID) then effectively they are both long term consumption displays. You need to reset one of them at each tank fill etc. for it to be a short- term consumption display.

8.9l/100km is bang on where it should be reading... anything from 8.5l/100km to 9.1l/100km could be considered a normal long term consumption.

[Spartan]

Using the power of turning on all the settings, is there any way I can set the clock and any of the other functions in the Computer system?

One of the frustrating things is not being able to make changes in the computer itself when they are only simple things like the time etc.

[wpoll]

Originally Posted by Spartan

Using the power of turning on all the settings, is there any way I can set the clock and any of the other functions in the Computer system?

One of the frustrating things is not being able to make changes in the computer itself when they are only simple things like the time etc.

Not without: -

1. The MID unit, or
2. A factory NAV unit, or
3. An Android head unit, running the iBus app and connected to the iBus via a Resler interface.

This is one of the reason I would replace the MID or NAV units with anything other than an android head unit - anything else will end in frustration.

One thing you *could* do is get a hold of a MID unit (eBay, wreckers, borrow one!) and plug it in to the iBus loom in the trunk - you can then set the clock etc.

[Spartan]

Originally Posted by wpoll

Not without: -

3. An Android head unit, running the iBus app and connected to the iBus via a Resler interface.
One thing you *could* do is get a hold of a MID unit (eBay, wreckers, borrow one!) and plug it in to the iBus loom in the trunk - you can then set the clock etc.

Thanks for that info. If I said that I fully understood it all I would be lying, sorry
My current Android unit has a canbus that allows everything to work from the SW controls and there are no wiring at the back that is not connected, so what is iBus and Resler interface?


Then referring to the next line,...MID unit...iBus loom in trunk I know you kiwis speak a little different to us, but WTF is all that, (in the nicest way of course). This is like another language for computers or something.



I may still be cocussed a bit, and not reading it right. I was hit by some poor bugger on a motorbike, didn't see me as he avoided a car and went around the corner instead of straight like he wanted. Sort of run me over and crashed himself, but we got the bloody car driver for cutting him off. Stuff being a pedestrian, that's dangerous!