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Old 04-20-2022, 11:44 PM
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Replacing the Lens on Adaptive HIDs

Hi y'all, halfway through doing my second projector lens I decided to take some pictures to show how to tear down the adaptive projector assembly. I replaced the lens with a Morimoto 3" ZKW-R so I can get a clear cutoff. Also, the whole process described here is because of a plastic tab inside the projector housing that blocks removing the installed lens. If you are able to reach the two mounting screws for that tab, and do the top-down screws and bracket too, you may not need to do all these steps.

You need a few tools: T8, T10, T15, T20 bits and any kind of handle with at least a 3inch extension. I also had one of the bendable extensions (for the hard to reach areas). The extensions need to be skinny. I have an electronics set from Wiha that I use.

1) Assuming you've removed the xenon bulb, the headlight lens and chrome attachments, the projector is attached via four screws on the front of the housing (where the light projects). This will detach the projector.

(Attachment 1)

2) On the back of the headlight, you can find the power clip buried inside between the projector and flashers. It's attached with a cliip on the side and should be disconnected. This connector has wires for the projector motor (the adaptive functionality), I assume an orientation disc, and the flap for the high beams on the projector. The wires are held in place with plastic guide tabs. You can pull the wires around the plastic guide tabs which allows for more movement.
The power receptacle clip shown in the below picture is removable. To the left of the receptacle you can insert a small flat head screwdriver between the top barrier and the clip. Press downward on the clip and pull the receptacle towards you. There are other wires that connect so it doesn't move far, but it allows the projector to sit further outside, still attached to wires.

(Attachment 2)

3) Work the projector outside the housing. I recall spinning it 90 degrees helped when reinstalling it, I'm not sure I did that when removing it.
Once outside, look at the side with a motor on it. There are three screws attaching the motor and a fourth screw with a green washer that I believe is a block for the adaptive movement (the projectors adaptive housing hits the screw and doesn't move further). I'm not entirely sure if this is the correct location for this screw with a green washer, and the below picture was taken during reinstallation, so please when you do this yourself take note of which side this screw was on (both sides have the angled screw slot).

(Attachment 3)

4) Remove the housing screws on the side with the motor.

(Attachment 4)

5)
I think this is a picture of the opposite side without the motor. Make sure you remove any housing screws here. I think there's one, maybe two. Anything that attaches to the metal bracket.

(Attachment 5)

6) Now on the bottom of the projector, detach the power connector via raising the connector's receptacle housing above the plastic latch locker thing and pulling. With the motor detached and this power connector detached you can freely hold the projector housing.
Remove the four T8 screws. In the below picture, the top two screws hold a flap with a latch. The lower centered screws hold the cover for the orientation disc.
center disc flap removed. I can't remember if the screw separates from the pcb. It does unscrew and become free, though:

(Attachment 6)

7) I had some cracked wires, so I opted to snip them, install heatshrink tubing, resolder, and shrink the wrapping.

8) There are two big screws on the outer sides of the projectors. These are the only T20s I think.

(Attachment 7)

9) Almost there. This part is a bitch but easy to do. There's two top-down screws that have to be removed. Then the metal bracket that they were attached to comes out. The metal bracket is held to the bigger plastic housing (which is what attaches to the main headlight mounts in step 1) via a metal block that squeezes into the plastic housing. You gotta pull it hard .
After the metal bracket is removed, and all the housing screws that attach the plastic housing to the projector are removed, you have to fight to pull the plastic housing over the front of the projector. Seriously, I think if you start from the bottom and get it over a few humps, while shimmying the top part over the lens holder, it will come off. It's pretty sturdy plastic but still be careful.
Finally, you can remove the second plastic bracket (inside the lens bezel) that has two screws holding it in place. Bend the tabs out that hold the lens in place, with pliers or a flathead and you can get the lens out one of the side. There's a metal spacer in-between the lens and the metal, I left it out on my first headlight mod and it's not as sharp. This time I left it in and it's noticeably sharper, so keep it installed. Be careful bending the tabs back into place, I cracked my second lens in the corner thinking I needed to press it harder than necessary. It's not noticeable but might be an issue with vibrations later on.

(Attachment 8)

10) The finished product is actually the first picture.

ZKW-R lens installed:
(Attachment 9)

OEM lens comparison:
(Attachment 10)

11) I did test this after re-installation and it worked. The cutoff line is MUCH clearer than the OEM lens. Both were with the headlight lens removed. It's not ready yet; I'm currently waiting on my halos to come in. I wonder if you can polish the projector bowl and/or whether you can replace the projector itself with an aftermarket one and retain the adaptive functionality since it's held in place via a bracket. I wanted to do the BiLED 2.0 but I don't have enough $$ to buy it and test. If anyone does this and has a different projector housing it'd be worth a shot. The motor and disc are out of the way of the projector so it might fit.

Also, I tried to put the pictures inline but I got security token error, so they're attachments.
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Old 04-21-2022, 09:47 AM
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I was very glad that I didn't have adaptive headlights in my facelift X5. Just swap the whole projector assembly.

I was tickled by "step one remove the lens," though.
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Old 04-24-2022, 03:01 PM
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how difficult was the removal of the lens? I need to replace them on both my x's and would like to install halos on my 4.6.
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Old 04-24-2022, 06:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lowblock View Post
how difficult was the removal of the lens? I need to replace them on both my x's and would like to install halos on my 4.6.

Honestly with what I wrote here you’re in much better shape than I was. I think the first time was 7/10 and second time 5/10. The hardest part was getting the wires disconnected with the weird angle, the second time I discovered how to detach that plug and it was much more manageable.

The rest is just removing screws and some of them are at weird angles. If you’re afraid about the orientation platter pcb thing, it has notches so it installs only one way. And the motor that detaches only reattaches if the grooves line up. Those look to be the most intimidating aspects, they’re really not.
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Old 04-25-2022, 09:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lowblock View Post
how difficult was the removal of the lens? I need to replace them on both my x's and would like to install halos on my 4.6.
If you're talking about the plastic lens, the answer is fairly miserable.

What I found was that the best approach was to just cut off as much of the lens as possible, leaving the mounting flange in place in the light. Then, you can cut around the flange on both with a hobby razor. Once you have worked a piece free, get a knife under and work your way around.

Heat won't do shit.

DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES PRY AGAINST THE HOUSING. It WILL crack.

The first light I did before I figured all that out took about 10x longer.
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Old 04-25-2022, 09:55 AM
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Has anyone tried softening the polyurethane glue with for example acetone or CRC gasket remover? On the other hand what the solvent does to the plastic housing itself?
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Old 04-25-2022, 10:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clavurion View Post
Has anyone tried softening the polyurethane glue with for example acetone or CRC gasket remover? On the other hand what the solvent does to the plastic housing itself?
In all seriousness, cutting the lens off made the process pretty easy. You really need access to the inside of the mounting channel. Short of dunking the entire assembly, I don't really see how chemicals would soften that.

I have heard that ECE assemblies may not have been assembled with the hard glue that was used in the US, though. You *might* be able to bake off.
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Old 04-25-2022, 11:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nick325xit 5spd View Post
In all seriousness, cutting the lens off made the process pretty easy. You really need access to the inside of the mounting channel. Short of dunking the entire assembly, I don't really see how chemicals would soften that.

I have heard that ECE assemblies may not have been assembled with the hard glue that was used in the US, though. You *might* be able to bake off.


If you are replacing the lenses, cutting the old ones and then removing the part that mounts in the channel afterwards is by far the easiest way.

If you are not replacing the lenses, I posted a DIY on here at some point. Google to the rescue, here Permaseal Opening DIY. It is not a pleasant job, but it is doable and not difficult. More tedious than anything else.
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Old 04-25-2022, 12:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crystalworks View Post


If you are replacing the lenses, cutting the old ones and then removing the part that mounts in the channel afterwards is by far the easiest way.

If you are not replacing the lenses, I posted a DIY on here at some point. Google to the rescue, here Permaseal Opening DIY. It is not a pleasant job, but it is doable and not difficult. More tedious than anything else.
FWIW, I had your DIY open and failed.
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Old 04-25-2022, 01:09 PM
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Replacing the Lens on Adaptive HIDs

Quote:
Originally Posted by nick325xit 5spd View Post
FWIW, I had your DIY open and failed.

Just for more thoughts, I had a significantly easier time taking the lens off my second headlight by cutting the flat lens part next to the channel with my dremel and then using a hot knife. The hot knife seemed to easily cut through the seal and cause resistance when i touched the channel.

But make sure you buy a good knife. I bought a $15 one on amazon that had two screw attached chucks for the blade. Both of the chucks bent after 20 minutes, probably since I was using force. It survived long enough to get the lens out with minimal damage to the channel, but it was $15 down the drain.
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