Replacing the Lens on Adaptive HIDs

[miloh]

Hi y'all, halfway through doing my second projector lens I decided to take some pictures to show how to tear down the adaptive projector assembly. I replaced the lens with a Morimoto 3" ZKW-R so I can get a clear cutoff. Also, the whole process described here is because of a plastic tab inside the projector housing that blocks removing the installed lens. If you are able to reach the two mounting screws for that tab, and do the top-down screws and bracket too, you may not need to do all these steps.

You need a few tools: T8, T10, T15, T20 bits and any kind of handle with at least a 3inch extension. I also had one of the bendable extensions (for the hard to reach areas). The extensions need to be skinny. I have an electronics set from Wiha that I use.

1) Assuming you've removed the xenon bulb, the headlight lens and chrome attachments, the projector is attached via four screws on the front of the housing (where the light projects). This will detach the projector.

(Attachment 1)

2) On the back of the headlight, you can find the power clip buried inside between the projector and flashers. It's attached with a cliip on the side and should be disconnected. This connector has wires for the projector motor (the adaptive functionality), I assume an orientation disc, and the flap for the high beams on the projector. The wires are held in place with plastic guide tabs. You can pull the wires around the plastic guide tabs which allows for more movement.
The power receptacle clip shown in the below picture is removable. To the left of the receptacle you can insert a small flat head screwdriver between the top barrier and the clip. Press downward on the clip and pull the receptacle towards you. There are other wires that connect so it doesn't move far, but it allows the projector to sit further outside, still attached to wires.

(Attachment 2)

3) Work the projector outside the housing. I recall spinning it 90 degrees helped when reinstalling it, I'm not sure I did that when removing it.
Once outside, look at the side with a motor on it. There are three screws attaching the motor and a fourth screw with a green washer that I believe is a block for the adaptive movement (the projectors adaptive housing hits the screw and doesn't move further). I'm not entirely sure if this is the correct location for this screw with a green washer, and the below picture was taken during reinstallation, so please when you do this yourself take note of which side this screw was on (both sides have the angled screw slot).

(Attachment 3)

4) Remove the housing screws on the side with the motor.

(Attachment 4)

5) I think this is a picture of the opposite side without the motor. Make sure you remove any housing screws here. I think there's one, maybe two. Anything that attaches to the metal bracket.

(Attachment 5)

6) Now on the bottom of the projector, detach the power connector via raising the connector's receptacle housing above the plastic latch locker thing and pulling. With the motor detached and this power connector detached you can freely hold the projector housing.
Remove the four T8 screws. In the below picture, the top two screws hold a flap with a latch. The lower centered screws hold the cover for the orientation disc.
center disc flap removed. I can't remember if the screw separates from the pcb. It does unscrew and become free, though:

(Attachment 6)

7) I had some cracked wires, so I opted to snip them, install heatshrink tubing, resolder, and shrink the wrapping.

8) There are two big screws on the outer sides of the projectors. These are the only T20s I think.

(Attachment 7)

9) Almost there. This part is a bitch but easy to do. There's two top-down screws that have to be removed. Then the metal bracket that they were attached to comes out. The metal bracket is held to the bigger plastic housing (which is what attaches to the main headlight mounts in step 1) via a metal block that squeezes into the plastic housing. You gotta pull it hard .
After the metal bracket is removed, and all the housing screws that attach the plastic housing to the projector are removed, you have to fight to pull the plastic housing over the front of the projector. Seriously, I think if you start from the bottom and get it over a few humps, while shimmying the top part over the lens holder, it will come off. It's pretty sturdy plastic but still be careful.
Finally, you can remove the second plastic bracket (inside the lens bezel) that has two screws holding it in place. Bend the tabs out that hold the lens in place, with pliers or a flathead and you can get the lens out one of the side. There's a metal spacer in-between the lens and the metal, I left it out on my first headlight mod and it's not as sharp. This time I left it in and it's noticeably sharper, so keep it installed. Be careful bending the tabs back into place, I cracked my second lens in the corner thinking I needed to press it harder than necessary. It's not noticeable but might be an issue with vibrations later on.

(Attachment 8)

10) The finished product is actually the first picture.

ZKW-R lens installed:
(Attachment 9)

OEM lens comparison:
(Attachment 10)

11) I did test this after re-installation and it worked. The cutoff line is MUCH clearer than the OEM lens. Both were with the headlight lens removed. It's not ready yet; I'm currently waiting on my halos to come in. I wonder if you can polish the projector bowl and/or whether you can replace the projector itself with an aftermarket one and retain the adaptive functionality since it's held in place via a bracket. I wanted to do the BiLED 2.0 but I don't have enough $$ to buy it and test. If anyone does this and has a different projector housing it'd be worth a shot. The motor and disc are out of the way of the projector so it might fit.

Also, I tried to put the pictures inline but I got security token error, so they're attachments.