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  #11  
Old 10-11-2022, 04:44 PM
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what size suction hose is optimal?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Clavurion View Post
Not much larger hose fits the dipstick tube. And that suction tube is what's limiting the flow rate.
On the first oil extractor I posted, the extraction/suction hose has an 4mm ID/6mm OD, while the second one has 5.5mm ID/6mm OD.

What ID/OD hose does your extractor use? And what's the max OD hose that'll fit in the dipstick tube? I'll go measure my X5's dipstick tube in a minute.
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'01 BMW X5-E53 3.0i (born 7/13/01)
topas-blau, Leder-Montana grau,
my new favorite project car

Plus four GM vehicles, Daily Drivers, and modified trucks for hauling & camping:
3 Chevys:
'09 HHR Panel LS 2.2L,
'08 Cobalt Coupe LS 2.2L,
'04 Silverado 2500HD WT Reg. Cab
+ a '98 GMC Sierra 1500 Ext. Cab

- and 20 others, now gone, that I've had over the last 57 years (not counting the stillborn "1965 ChevyII altered/gasser project")
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  #12  
Old 10-11-2022, 04:47 PM
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I have used fluid evacuators (my first wsa MityVac fluid evacuator, but then bought another from Princess Auto - same as Harbour Freight stores) for decades. M54, M70, N62 & now N14 engines. having the oil hot is best when sucking out. and after sucked out, if your engine desigin allows, loosen the oil filter cap and then drain MORE out of that area (when filter sits on top/side access of engine, unlike the V8 N62)
I've changed my oil in my cars in dress pants, shirt and tie way more than ever in my mechanics coveralls. SOOO WORTH having a fluid evacuator.
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Last edited by Clockwork; 10-11-2022 at 05:12 PM.
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  #13  
Old 10-11-2022, 05:03 PM
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1/2" internal tube diameter should allow for a 6mm OD tube inside

Just measured my dipstick tube; the top is flared-out, but it appears to taper-down to 1/2" (12.7mm). Plenty of room for the 6.0 mm OD hose.

I'm sure that the unit I'm ordering hasn't got the suction of a good shop extractor, but if it works, it'll certainly be worth $25, if only for one oil change.

P.S. added later,
I always warm up my engines prior to changing the oil (getting scalded fingers as a result, sometimes).
I forgot to add this note earlier, but double-checked my oil level just now, and the X5 hasn't used a bit since I got it in May 2021, as the level is still near max like before (perhaps a tiny bit is gone).
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__________________
'01 BMW X5-E53 3.0i (born 7/13/01)
topas-blau, Leder-Montana grau,
my new favorite project car

Plus four GM vehicles, Daily Drivers, and modified trucks for hauling & camping:
3 Chevys:
'09 HHR Panel LS 2.2L,
'08 Cobalt Coupe LS 2.2L,
'04 Silverado 2500HD WT Reg. Cab
+ a '98 GMC Sierra 1500 Ext. Cab

- and 20 others, now gone, that I've had over the last 57 years (not counting the stillborn "1965 ChevyII altered/gasser project")

Last edited by workingonit; 10-11-2022 at 05:17 PM. Reason: added info
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  #14  
Old 11-02-2022, 04:16 PM
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worst oil change I ever did

As I posted last, I ordered a 80W 12v extraction pump from Amazon. I set it up, warmed the oil (ran the engine until the coolant was 190F, so perhaps the oil was warm enough???), and ran the extractor.

I started at 11am, and finally extracted about 3 quarts after an hour+ (you have to rest the pump for 15 minutes after 20 minutes of runtime), which left enough room for my 5-6 quart drainpan to catch. The I went underneath.

At first I thought to remove the plate under the oil pan, but I couldn't even get the nuts to turn, even using a 1/2" electric impact (corded), or a 4 ft breaker bar. I was wanting to inspect the hidden pieces as well as gaining clearance for oil drainage. Exasperated, I decided to just remove the oil pan plug, and found it to be almost as tight as the aforementioned bolts. At this point, two hours into a 15-minute oil change (my usual time), I gave the drain plug bolt all I could (just using my longet 17mm box wrench, fearing more power might strip it out), and it finally turned.

It fought me all the way out, getting finger-tight at the last two threads, and the oil drained into my drainpan (held up in my other hand). About 4.5 quarts came out, and made no mess, but I replaced the original drain plug with a new magnetic-tipped bolt from Amazon
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it went in much better than the other came out (I checked for leaks after filling with oil).

How hard is the underside plate to get off? If it would come off, then I could've used two pans (or a larger one), and been sure that oil wouldn't spurt on top of the plate, causing a mess. Extracting 3 quarts reduced the pressure enough to where the remainder just stayed vertical. Total time to change oil: 3.5 hours, including cleanup. Way too slow.
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'01 BMW X5-E53 3.0i (born 7/13/01)
topas-blau, Leder-Montana grau,
my new favorite project car

Plus four GM vehicles, Daily Drivers, and modified trucks for hauling & camping:
3 Chevys:
'09 HHR Panel LS 2.2L,
'08 Cobalt Coupe LS 2.2L,
'04 Silverado 2500HD WT Reg. Cab
+ a '98 GMC Sierra 1500 Ext. Cab

- and 20 others, now gone, that I've had over the last 57 years (not counting the stillborn "1965 ChevyII altered/gasser project")
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  #15  
Old 11-02-2022, 04:56 PM
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I feel like you're making this job really, really, really difficult for reasons that I don't understand. Why not buy a bigger drain pan?
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  #16  
Old 11-02-2022, 05:21 PM
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Did you overtighten at the last oil change or something? How do you do it in 15 minutes normally?



The pan takes a little bit of time to get off. The bolts are too big for my electric impact. The bolts are threaded into nuts on the top of the pan. Some of the bolts will spin and you will need a second wrench on the top to restrain the nuts on the top. It is actually pretty easy to take the pan off once you know how to access all six bolts.
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  #17  
Old 11-02-2022, 05:44 PM
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Special tool: manual impact!
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  #18  
Old 11-02-2022, 06:32 PM
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first-time oil change on X5

Quote:
Originally Posted by nick325xit 5spd View Post
I feel like you're making this job really, really, really difficult for reasons that I don't understand. Why not buy a bigger drain pan?
I have always used the same 5-6 quart drain pan; I wasn't used to draining more than it would hold, so I thought about extracting the extra 2-3 quarts from the topside before draining from below. Done that before at a friend's shop on a diesel pickup, but with a vacuum-powered extractor ($$$$). My cheap unit just doesn't have the power needed. I'm buying a bigger drainpan before the next oil change (and/or a Fumoto drain fitting). I'll save the electric extractor for master cylinders or power steering reservoir drainage.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bdc101
Did you overtighten at the last oil change or something? How do you do it in 15 minutes normally? The pan takes a little bit of time to get off. The bolts are too big for my electric impact. The bolts are threaded into nuts on the top of the pan. Some of the bolts will spin and you will need a second wrench on the top to restrain the nuts on the top. It is actually pretty easy to take the pan off once you know how to access all six bolts.
This is my first-time ever oil change on the X5; I've had it 17 months, but it only had 400 miles since the previous owner had the oil changed, and I'd only driven it 900 miles. Not sure which synthetic he used, though he said it was 5W-30, but surely it was good enough for that short time. I put in Castrol Euro 5W-40, with LL-01 specs. Next oil change will be next year.

About the protective plate: I tried using the tools I mentioned, and with a box end on the nut, but I didn't have the room to move (the X5 is only lifted six inches in front, on short ramps), nor the strength to muscle them loose (one arm is useless). I've never had the plate off, but my friend, the previous owner, had it off when he was rebuilding it, but he has a strong/new 1/2" impact that is obviously stronger than my 30-year-old electric/corded impact I bought at some tool sale. I'll have to improve my tool stock, because if he put the plate back on without proper torque values, then I might need a much stronger impact...example: I had my first flat a few months ago, and had to use a 4-ft breaker bar to loosen the lug bolts...I'm sure the previous owner used his big honking impact on it as well!
__________________
'01 BMW X5-E53 3.0i (born 7/13/01)
topas-blau, Leder-Montana grau,
my new favorite project car

Plus four GM vehicles, Daily Drivers, and modified trucks for hauling & camping:
3 Chevys:
'09 HHR Panel LS 2.2L,
'08 Cobalt Coupe LS 2.2L,
'04 Silverado 2500HD WT Reg. Cab
+ a '98 GMC Sierra 1500 Ext. Cab

- and 20 others, now gone, that I've had over the last 57 years (not counting the stillborn "1965 ChevyII altered/gasser project")
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  #19  
Old 11-03-2022, 02:20 PM
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You probably just need to loosen the bolts with a big ratchet (which you might be able to do without holding the nut in a second wrench) and then put the wrench on the nut and use a small electric impact to take the bolts out.



Honestly it is a job that is made greatly easier by having plenty of space to move around under the car.
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  #20  
Old 11-03-2022, 02:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clavurion View Post
Yes exactly. I usually first put the extractor doing it's job. Turn filler cap open but let it rest there. Open filter housing and lift it a bit so the drain on the bottom of the housing opens and let the filter drain there for a while. Then insert new filter and wait until the suction is complete. As a filter I prefer the rubber end types like Mahle/Hengst/Knecht opposed to hard ends like Mann. Also remember to check the condition of the two small o-rings on the filter cap stem (doesn't hurt to renew some times them if they are not included in the filter package).
I replaced those o rings with Viton ones so I would hopefully never have to change them again.
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