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  #1  
Old 08-04-2021, 09:28 AM
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Replacement CV-Axle options

Hi guys,

I'm about to replace both front CV-axles and I'm looking for advice on the best option/brand.

(pricing in CAD)

From RockAuto:
- Trakmotive Axles ($100)
- Cardone Axles ($120)
- remanufactured Cardone Axles ($130 excluding core charge)
- APWI Axles ($160)
- VAICO CV Axle joint ($160)

FCPEuro (Note: high shipping fees to Canada):
- Meyle CV axle joint ($180)
- GKN Axles ($630)

GermanParts.ca:
- Trakmotive Axles ($170)
- GKN Axles ($800)


A couple notes: I'm not looking to spend $800 on axles so GKN isn't an option. According to RockAuto the Trackmotive axles don't have the reluctor ring... sketchyyyy so I'll pass on those as well.

Anyone have experience with the rest? I usually pay the extra bucks for OEM quality and would get the GKNs but funds are a little low and after the valve and timing cover gaskets I'm not exactly thrilled with the X5

Oh, I'm also doing the kingpin balljoints and dif output seals while I'm in there.


Cheers
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  #2  
Old 08-04-2021, 09:56 AM
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New GKN complete axles on PartsGeek for around $255 for the front right. Left side a little less. I just put a new front right in my 02 E53.

I think GKN is the OEM mfr. Don’t forget a new nut and seal.

Have fun!

Quote:
Originally Posted by E53Envyy View Post
Hi guys,

I'm about to replace both front CV-axles and I'm looking for advice on the best option/brand.

(pricing in CAD)

From RockAuto:
- Trakmotive Axles ($100)
- Cardone Axles ($120)
- remanufactured Cardone Axles ($130 excluding core charge)
- APWI Axles ($160)
- VAICO CV Axle joint ($160)

FCPEuro (Note: high shipping fees to Canada):
- Meyle CV axle joint ($180)
- GKN Axles ($630)

GermanParts.ca:
- Trakmotive Axles ($170)
- GKN Axles ($800)


A couple notes: I'm not looking to spend $800 on axles so GKN isn't an option. According to RockAuto the Trackmotive axles don't have the reluctor ring... sketchyyyy so I'll pass on those as well.

Anyone have experience with the rest? I usually pay the extra bucks for OEM quality and would get the GKNs but funds are a little low and after the valve and timing cover gaskets I'm not exactly thrilled with the X5

Oh, I'm also doing the kingpin balljoints and dif output seals while I'm in there.


Cheers
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  #3  
Old 08-04-2021, 10:51 AM
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The reluctor ring is in the bearing so that doesn't play a part.

My outer joint was failed from a boot that tore and I ignored too long. I wasn't happy long term with some generic full axles I bought via Amazon for wife's e53 so I bought just the outer joint from FCP so I could use OEM grade. The kit is amazing but I did have problems with the spring clip. Fortunately I had a spare from a boot repair kit I had.

A recent thread on the subject had very high reviews on the cardone and I could see using in my car once my inner joints fail.

Search for that thread, I think the guy ended up getting the outer joint OEM like I did.
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  #4  
Old 08-04-2021, 11:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by E53Envyy View Post
Hi guys,

I'm about to replace both front CV-axles and I'm looking for advice on the best option/brand.

(pricing in CAD)

From RockAuto:
- Trakmotive Axles ($100)
- Cardone Axles ($120)
- remanufactured Cardone Axles ($130 excluding core charge)
- APWI Axles ($160)
- VAICO CV Axle joint ($160)

FCPEuro (Note: high shipping fees to Canada):
- Meyle CV axle joint ($180)
- GKN Axles ($630)

GermanParts.ca:
- Trakmotive Axles ($170)
- GKN Axles ($800)


A couple notes: I'm not looking to spend $800 on axles so GKN isn't an option. According to RockAuto the Trackmotive axles don't have the reluctor ring... sketchyyyy so I'll pass on those as well.

Anyone have experience with the rest? I usually pay the extra bucks for OEM quality and would get the GKNs but funds are a little low and after the valve and timing cover gaskets I'm not exactly thrilled with the X5

Oh, I'm also doing the kingpin balljoints and dif output seals while I'm in there.


Cheers
Reluctor ring? Are you referencing the ABS wheel speed sensor? If you are, that is taken off the wheel bearing. So you don't need a reluctor ring on the CV axle as the wheelspeed measurement is taken off the seal on the wheel bearing.

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  #5  
Old 08-04-2021, 11:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RocketyMan View Post
Reluctor ring? Are you referencing the ABS wheel speed sensor? If you are, that is taken off the wheel bearing.
The sensor is the part in the wheel carrier that detects the motion of the reluctor ring which is inside the bearing seal. (Just repeating for clarity not everyone knows the term reluctor ring. It's also used in the cam shaft and other similar devices).
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  #6  
Old 08-04-2021, 11:46 AM
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Thanks guys,

@Henn28 - I'll checkout ParksGeek, seems to be slightly better pricing the rockauto. But if I can get away with Cardone Axles that'll save me a couple hundred bucks.

@andrewwynn - Ahh found it! Gives some confidence for the Cardone axles.

@RocketyMan - Yeah on the E46 the reluctor ring is part of the CV axle. I assumed when I read on rockauto "Does Not Include ABS Ring" for the Trakmotive axles the other brands included the ABS ring. Thanks for clearing this up


I'll probably buy the Cardone axles. Interestingly enough the boots on my axles aren't torn but I'm hearing a poping / clicking sound under acceleration and during left turns (so probably right side axle but I'll do both). I currently have the car up on jack stands and have inspected the situation. The previous owner had replaced the lower control arm and tension strut but did not replace the ball joint in the kingpin. I dropped the strut from the ball joint and it's not too bad and not the source of the sound. So I'm left with thinking it's the axle, if you guys have any other ideas before I start ordering parts then let me know!

Oh, is the rubber bushing in the tension strut supposed to be soft? Seems to kinda dangle in the breeze, rubber looks fine. When I first picked up the car it had a loud clunk since the previous owner didn't properly torque the bolt/nut where the strut mounts to the frame. Anyway I have to determine if it worth replacing now or maybe wait and replace one part at a time and not waste money as I know she's gonna be a needy girl


Cheers
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  #7  
Old 08-04-2021, 12:05 PM
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I just replaced my tension struts and I seem to recall they were firm when I changed the ball joints a week later. If they are flippin around I suspect they are shot. You will get a pretty district thud as the wheels push backwards on quick brake application.

Either side almost as likely to pop and click from either direction turning. Mine was left turning left axle but I had shimmy and shake possibly from right CV outer never pop/click before I replaced.

Left one was full of sand causing all the noise and occasionally getting stuck at a particular angle. That was interesting no doubt.
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  #8  
Old 08-04-2021, 12:10 PM
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Take heed learn from my mistake:

Since I was going to replace my ball joints in a week I didn't bother to torque the nut holding the tension strut I just zapped with the impact.

I apparently over torqued and stretched the eye onto the Morse pin. It took a good 90 minutes or more to remove even with heat. I may have cold welded the joint from force. Broke my pickle fork etc. Disaster.

On the other side put my crowbar in to pre tension and bang with hammer and it fell off before I hit it once. Definitely use a torque wrench.
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Old 08-04-2021, 12:15 PM
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Take an audio recording of the left turn pop. There is a different possibility that is distinct to left turns under power especially tight and show turns you want to exclude.

The front drive shaft can come out of the transfer case spline and pop to the next spline. It's a distinct metal "tink tink tink" sound. Not crunchy like CV joint typically is but want to make sure that's not your sound before you reeplaced the wrong part.
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  #10  
Old 08-04-2021, 01:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewwynn View Post
The sensor is the part in the wheel carrier that detects the motion of the reluctor ring which is inside the bearing seal. (Just repeating for clarity not everyone knows the term reluctor ring. It's also used in the cam shaft and other similar devices).
Yeah--you're right. I guess that was confusing what I said. But much needed clarity as I got mixed up on that.
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