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  #21  
Old 11-08-2023, 11:11 PM
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Auxiliary heating usually means a hot box or webasto type auxiliary heating unit so you probably don't have that.
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  #22  
Old 11-09-2023, 08:50 AM
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80stech,
Thanks for the reply. I assume the difference is hose length. I put one on order to get it here on time. I think I ordered the longer one. I can trim it to the fit heater valve. A new valve is available for installation. The hose is so soft, I doubt it would last a harsh summer or brutal winter.

Does water flow through it when not in use? If not, it would be better to flow water to keep it cooler.
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  #23  
Old 11-09-2023, 09:09 AM
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The difference might be hose shape as well so hopefully the longer one is right. Looking at the diagram I would say that if there is only three hoses going to the heater valve then there can't be coolant flowing with the heater valves closed. I think if you search there is a really nice colour pic on how all that works if you want to make sure.
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  #24  
Old 11-09-2023, 09:23 AM
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A VAICO V201703 was ordered. Looking at pictures, it seems to be several inches longer. The important part is connecting to the supply pipe. With short winters here, a bypass valve would keep water circulating. Pictures will be posted to ID differences.
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  #25  
Old 11-09-2023, 03:10 PM
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A coolant system pressure check was done. First test was to 1 bar. The upper hose only two years old failed. The hose dripped under 1 bar of pressure. I thought it was at the o ring. A new o ring was installed. At 1 bar, it failed again. Using a mirror, the hose connection failed. The single clamp ring didn't hold. The lock adapter spun inside the hose. Luckily, I had another replacement. The new hose snapped in with good force. It passed a 15 min 1 bar test. No other leaks were found. Bentley says to test it, go to 1.5 bar. It should not drop more than 10% in 2 minutes. Pressure held at 1.5 bar for 3 minutes. Pressure was released and inspection was done. The test will need to be done again when a heater valve supply hose is installed. Blue coolant will go in with a new supply heater valve hose. Three gallons of distilled water diluted the previous green coolant.
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Last edited by X5chemist; 11-09-2023 at 08:20 PM.
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  #26  
Old 11-09-2023, 03:32 PM
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Good work! Don't be shy with the pressure. Look for actual leaks or hoses swelling, not so much about percentages watching it drop.
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  #27  
Old 11-09-2023, 06:09 PM
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Once the heater supply hose is replaced, I'll crank it up. Mine runs a 1.5 bar tank cap. The supply hose would probably bulge if I cranked it up more. The hose is so soft. A bypass valve is so tempting to install.
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  #28  
Old 11-20-2023, 01:08 PM
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Has anyone rerouted the B+ wire during a starter replacement? I know it is fished through the 5/6 intake runners. Why not reroute it? Just curious. I'll be installing a replacement starter on Wed.
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  #29  
Old 11-23-2023, 11:47 AM
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Finally rolled out the X5. The coolant system refresh is complete. It cranked up on the first try. The 4X4 light went out driving across the driveway. Emissions will take time to set. Only one code/warning appears: Check Coolant Level. It will take time to bleed out the air. Which sensor senses coolant level for the dash? Both lower hose and tank sensors are new. The connections are tight. Which one needs to be replaced or checked?

I need to move one vacuum hose. The small elbow connection is not on yet. I capped it for the time being. Can one someone confirm, the small elbow connection? It's the hose coming over the left fender near the brake booster. I assume it's the fuel tank vent.

The coolant temp seems really low for radiator output. It reached 90C but it took a while. It was cool yesterday. Is this the sensor causing the "Check Coolant Level" warning?
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  #30  
Old 11-23-2023, 11:56 AM
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The coolant level sensor should be in the bottom of the expansion tank. I think they are a bit finicky though. AFAIK the face lifts (mine anyway) no longer used the sensor because I think they had too many customer complaints about the light coming on.
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