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  #11  
Old 06-30-2024, 09:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Salty B. View Post
I *think* I got it in right, but I'll verify next time it's off. Thanks for that.

Now the alarm won't set and the left rear door won't lock... I didn't even mess with that one. Eh whatever...
The two "faults" are related. Re-seat the connectors on the driver's door master switch unit? If one of these is wonky, all kinds of failures happen...
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  #12  
Old 06-30-2024, 09:45 PM
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Originally Posted by wpoll View Post
The two "faults" are related. Re-seat the connectors on the driver's door master switch unit? If one of these is wonky, all kinds of failures happen...
Ugh... OK, thanks again!

What's the consensus on the Chinese knock-off DLAs? I've never heard or read anything good but the OE part is $US230+.
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  #13  
Old 06-30-2024, 10:08 PM
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Ugh... OK, thanks again!

What's the consensus on the Chinese knock-off DLAs? I've never heard or read anything good but the OE part is $US230+.
An OE Part is (usually) better than an after-market part is better that a faulty part. YMMV...

Even if the after-market parts last half the life of the OE part, at this point that's 10+ years.
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Old 06-30-2024, 10:37 PM
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The oe use pretty cheap motors I wouldn't feel bad about putting knock off DLA in any of the non driver door. I'd be a little more concerned with the driver door just because it interacts with the alarm system and the fragile door cylinder.


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  #15  
Old 06-30-2024, 10:39 PM
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The two "faults" are related. Re-seat the connectors on the driver's door master switch unit? If one of these is wonky, all kinds of failures happen...

+1. Are the locking levers still fully functional? If not I'd maybe add a screw to hold it tight lest it bumps loose over a pothole.


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  #16  
Old 07-02-2024, 08:59 PM
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+1. Are the locking levers still fully functional? If not I'd maybe add a screw to hold it tight lest it bumps loose over a pothole.


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Yeah I reseated the connectors on both doors and gave em a little shot of De-oxit. That seems to have solved it for now. Thx.
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Old 07-02-2024, 09:00 PM
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Deoxit is amazing!
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  #18  
Old 07-08-2024, 08:01 PM
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+1. Are the locking levers still fully functional? If not I'd maybe add a screw to hold it tight lest it bumps loose over a pothole.


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Yes they are presnt and appear to lock, but they don't seem all that snug anymore, and twice now the alarm chirp stopped working again after a day or so. I'll see if I can find some little screws.
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Old 07-08-2024, 08:22 PM
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A small amt of silicone works great to hold a molex connector that doesn't grab anymore. Tiny dab on the two long sides. You'll be able to pull out if needed but it should never get loose
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  #20  
Old 07-12-2024, 05:49 PM
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The oe use pretty cheap motors I wouldn't feel bad about putting knock off DLA in any of the non driver door. I'd be a little more concerned with the driver door just because it interacts with the alarm system and the fragile door cylinder.
Ended up with the OE part from FCP. It is the driver's door. So that will be this weekend's project. I rationalized the cost by the above *and* I have zero interest in ripping that door card off again I'm sure I will eventually for some other problem to replace a shitty Chinesium part.

The two on the right side work fine. I have a good used one for the left rear and will do both of them now that I have a shitton of those shatter-prone door card clips.

Reseated the window switch connectors again, the alarm chirped once, then twice on unlock, then never again... I'll try the silicone thing but I'm wondering if a pin got loose or something.
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