Rear window fuse?

[Henn28]

Got home from a week long trip to a left rear window that drops on its own when power is applied. Looks like the rear switch, but I know that the auto tilt mirror function (in reverse) is intermittent and due to a failing front switch, so I ordered both.

While I wait for them to arrive, is there any way to immobilize the window without pulling the door card and unplugging the motor? I would rather not pull the door card due to the inevitable loss of plastic bits. The only fuse I see for rear windows also handles other stuff like door locks.

[andrewwynn]

The mirror dip only works when the selector is on driver mirror. Any chance the intermittent coincidentally when the selector was set to passenger side?

[Henn28]

Originally Posted by andrewwynn

The mirror dip only works when the selector is on driver mirror. Any chance the intermittent coincidentally when the selector was set to passenger side?

I did check that, and work the switch vigorously just in case it’s just some corrosion.. Unfortunately it’s inop 99% of the time and only very occasionally decides to dip with reverse selected.

[Clavurion]

There is no separate fuse for rear windows. Besides unplugging the connector the only way would be removing the propriate pins on body module or B pillar connector going to door.

[X5chemist]

F60 - rear door locks, rear windows, and mirrors. It's a GM III fuse. I know, I traced a parasitic amp draw to it. Lower far right side behind the glove box.

[Henn28]

Looks like the door panel is coming off…again. I I just had it off a week or two ago to put in a new regulator. Ugh.

[Qsilver7]

Not sure if this will temporarily fix your rear window issue...but there's a rear window lock-out switch on the front driver's control panel. You can still raise/lower the rear windows from the driver's main switch, but if you press the lock-out button, rear passengers (usually kids) can't raise lower the rear windows from those prospective switches on the rear doors.

[andrewwynn]

Originally Posted by Henn28

Looks like the door panel is coming off…again. I I just had it off a week or two ago to put in a new regulator. Ugh.

If the back door like the front, pull the switch out and unplug it. I bet that will disable the window.

[Henn28]

Originally Posted by andrewwynn

If the back door like the front, pull the switch out and unplug it. I bet that will disable the window.

I’ll definitely try that first. I’m now not sure which window switch(es) are bad. I tried locking out the back with the kiddie lock button up front, as mentioned by Qsilver, and the back window still hunted up and down on its own for a bit.

I’ve ordered both switches from FCP which hopefully will take care of the problem. Until the other side fails.

I cut my troubleshooting efforts off to spend the morning cleaning my wife’s X5 50e as we just got home from helping our daughter move to northern VA for her first post college job. The car crushed 2000 miles and even with a depleted battery has huge amounts of power and torque. I’ve got some minor complaints, mostly having to do with complicated and who-asked-for-it electronics and technology, but otherwise I’m happy with it. We found a couple hotels with chargers and were able to realize the 50+ mpg hybrid dream for a bit, but otherwise the thing was happy at 75 mph and 27 mpg avg on the mighty B58. We had a Thule box on top so MPG might be fractionally higher without it.

The car is always trying to regenerative brake, which can be disconcerting at first. It must sense a deceleration threshold and once this is triggered, it engages the electric motor to send some juice back to the battery. It decelerates the car a surprising amount. It also seems to sense steep hills where it can engage it when you lift the throttle. Often we’d get it the hotel with zero charge, but wake up to 3 miles on the battery, which I think must be from the regenerative efforts. If there is any juice in the battery it seems to use it to accelerate from a stop, and then cut over to the gas motor at around 20 or 30 mph. If there is a lot it will stay electric until you call for more power, or it runs out of charge. You can force it to gas only with the push of the “sport” button.

We charged it last night when we got home and my wife just took it to the store (with a clean interior) in electric only mode. Her work and just about everything else is within 10 to 15 miles of our house, so under normal circumstances she shouldn’t have to fill the car up very often at all. An Autel level 2 charger cost me a $150 ish net, after a rebate from our power company.

[X5chemist]

Mine had weird issues with F60. Rear door and hatch locks acted up. Mostly blowing the fuse. I ended up replacing the GMIII module. Hopefully, yours is a switch issues. I've had no issues since then.