another major problem I don't need (no crank, no start)

[workingonit]

Well, wouldn't you know it, but everytime I think I'm getting one of my problems sorted-out, up pop 2-3 others, to take its' place.

What's been happening, August-October:

• 1) I successfully got 3 of 5 vehicles inspected and registered, with only minor repairs,
• 2) I'm about to do fluids etc on 2 more, for upcoming inspections,
• 3) I finished my MAF tuning "project box" just yesterday https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/...n-revised.html,
• 4) I got our LG french-door fridge repaired for free (not counting about $500 in spoiled food thrown out), and
• 5) I've been real busy for over a month, by myself, while the wife has been taking care of her younger sister (58 y.o.), mother (82 y.o.), and her mom's twin sister (also 82 y.o.) while they're ill, and probably will continue that way for months (racking-up miles commuting between counties), with me doing all the "animal" chores for her menagerie of critters at home...I'm wearing out. and don't need any other problems now.

What's happening now:

• 1) my X5 won't start, because somethings not right. It began after I got the state inspection, and for the second time in two years, it wouldn't start on the first turn of the key. When leaving the tax office later, it took 5 turns of the key to get it to start, so we came straight home, skipping shopping,
• 2) then home, I started it up easily the first time, then hooked up my Foxweel to read codes, but the scan tool gave me a blue screen, saying that the data was corrupted,
• 3) the SD card had to be re-formatted, and I had to use the USB interface cord to reload all the missing programs onto the Foxwell (2+ hours for BMW, GM, OBD, Toyota-Lexus software),
• 4) back in the X5, first no starts for 6 times,10 times, 20 times, then not at all.

So, istead of continuing with my MAF project, I'm looking at these threads https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/...art-issue.html, and https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/...amond-key.html, to find a solution.

The weird thing about the no start, is that I'd wiggle the key, wiggle the shifter, start in P or N, and sometime a combination might start it, but never twice in a row.

And the codes and live data kept changing, and added to my confusion. I'm about ready to bypass the EWS entirely, as I stated on one of those other threads.
these codes are usually present

I have no idea what's the comm problem

first, the key is not identified,and the EWS shows a random code problem

second, the key is still not identified, but no fault for the EWS
live data now shows the key as properly identified

[workingonit]

I can't believe I didn't state the problem correctly. Frustration, I guess. Where to begin?

Also, since I posted in three threads just now, with EWS mentioned in all, suddenly YouTube is recommending multiple videos about BMW EWS's, all of a sudden. I wasn't even searching for any.

[X5chemist]

If you think the EWS delete is necessary, I'll help. It worked great on mine. If you install a fused kill switch, then you don't have to worry about someone using a screwdriver to start it.

Do you suspect the key electrical ignition part? I have an OEM one not being used. I can send it to swap out. I don't think those need coding. I swapped mine out trying to chase a parasitic drain.

I have a PDF to email. It details EWS testing. If you order the EWS deleted DME, only one more mod is needed. A fuse needs to be trimmed to fit the EWS plug. I used small snipers to trim it. A file will work too. Only edges need trimming. You can install a kill bypass switch there.

[workingonit]

Originally Posted by X5chemist

If you think the EWS delete is necessary, I'll help. It worked great on mine. If you install a fused kill switch, then you don't have to worry about someone using a screwdriver to start it.



Do you suspect the key electrical ignition part? I have an OEM one not being used. I can send it to swap out. I don't think those need coding. I swapped mine out trying to chase a parasitic drain.



I have a PDF to email. It details EWS testing. If you order the EWS deleted DME, only one more mod is needed. A fuse needs to be trimmed to fit the EWS plug. I used small snipers to trim it. A file will work too. Only edges need trimming. You can install a kill bypass switch there.

I saw a "50's Kid" video on YouTube after I PM'd you last night, showing how to use the 30-amp fuse in the EWS plug to determine whether or not the EWS is going bad, and causing the no crank.

I'll try that first, as it will let me know if it's the EWS module gone bad or not. Please send me the PDF, because I need to pinpoint the problem, and delete the EWS if it is bad.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

[wpoll]

It sounds like a damaged/intermittent key - the EWS cannot reliably read the code from the key.

I can't recall what your key situation is - still got the original diamond key?

[workingonit]

Originally Posted by wpoll

It sounds like a damaged/intermittent key - the EWS cannot reliably read the code from the key.

I can't recall what your key situation is - still got the original diamond key?

Yes, it's the one and only key I received upon trading cars. I replaced the battery in it three years ago, and charge it on a Phillips Sonicare Toothbrush Charger (since I seldom drive the X much).

When I cut the case halves apart to change the battery, I accidently broke a small wire inside, and had to resolder it, and the keep has worked ever since, except for once when I'd run the main battery down to 11v, while testing things, and another time when I might not have insered the key in far enough (thick silicone cover, since cut away).

I do have 2 spares without the blades cut (remote functions only, in case I get locked out with the main key left inside...I always carry one with me), and an empty diamond key with the blade cut (standing by to use when I need to change the battery again, or when I delete the EWS).

I've been researching all morning on Google and YouTube to see how to

• 1) jumper the EWS module to test the starter (found),
• 2) replace the ignition switch block (found) and,
• 3) re-sync the Key with EWS and DME (watching that video now...update: requires an AK90+, MS43 Wiki downloads, and more computer skills than I possess, so no).

If, after jumping the EWS, and I find the start problem is EWS-related, and not a flukey starter (which I doubt), then I'll try and re-sync the key (while leaving the EWS jumped). I might just order a new ignition switch block, too. And I'm getting a "Car Key ECU Test Coil" just to make sure the EWS ring antenna is able to pick up the key chip.

There was a transmission "no comm" code, that worries me, but I might've caused it myself, trying the starter in avery position on the shifter, rapidly. Who knows?

[wpoll]

Originally Posted by workingonit

... and had to resolder it, and the keep has worked ever since, ...

except it hasn't... your "EWS fault" could be still be the key failing.

The key has TWO internal functions and I think you are thinking that if the fob can unlock/lock the car, then BOTH functions are good. That is NOT the case. The EWS function in the key fob can fail independently of the unlock/lock function.

[workingonit]

Originally Posted by wpoll

except it hasn't... your "EWS fault" could be still be the key failing.

The key has TWO internal functions and I think you are thinking that if the fob can unlock/lock the car, then BOTH functions are good. That is NOT the case. The EWS function in the key fob can fail independently of the unlock/lock function.

Except that when I had to resolder the trace that came loose, it was to restore the unlock/lock function. The key would start the X, but wouldn't unlock the door...I had to use the mechanical door lock ubtil I resoldered it.

Of course, it could be coming apart inside, but that doesn't explain the no comm with the EGS (transmission). Or why one minute the key is identified, and next minute it's not.

I do have the spare key housing with the cut blade ready to use, but i'm wary of cutting oped the original again, to see if something went wrong inside. I can't see close-up well enough to resolder if I find that it needs it. So that's why I'm leaning towards an EWS bypass or complete delete, whichever works, at the lowest cost.

[wpoll]

Originally Posted by workingonit

... Of course, it could be coming apart inside, but that doesn't explain the no comm with the EGS (transmission). Or why one minute the key is identified, and next minute it's not. ...

You are correct - that doesn't explain the EGS issue but if the key is "coming apart inside" then your non-start symptoms are explained...

I just think it's worth trying to eliminate this (simple) possibility before gutting out the EWS.

[wpoll]

And if it turns out to be a failing key, rather than disabling the EWS, it may be cheaper and easier to simply buy a new diamond key from a dealer... just saying.