INPA 209 EWS-Code Error

[DTM_Theory]

Update.

Just out of curiosity I decided to try resyncing EWS-DME codes using PASoft 1.4 ; using the "EWS-DME Adaptations" Option. I got an "OK" result so it looks like it was able to successfully pair them. But I'm still getting No Crank / No Start.

Originally Posted by workingonit

I've encountered EWS problems several times over 4 years, whenever

• 1) I try to troubleshoot for extended p[eriods without the engine running (my M54 averages 14v at idle-1500rpm),
• 2) I try any troubleshooting if my battery is low, dying, or near dead (even my Foxwell scan tool doesn't work correctly, usually only readin a partial list of modules), and
• 3) my key is giving me intermittent contact problems (I may have to flip the OEM "damaged but repaired" key over and try again, or "hold my mouth right", or just give it a rest 'til another day)

My usual workaround is to attach a 20amp "stable power supply" and try again, monitoring the battery voltage until it's over 13v when I try, and that has worked up until recently. My single OEM key started being unreliable, despite the 13+v, so I finally bought a new Valet key, so I can take apart my old key for possible repairs, and still be able to start the X, while the repair is being attempted.

Since my X is down due to a bad fuel system, and i've had health problems causing me to not rush repairs of the X or the key, the X is sitting on a good maintenance charge, and the Valet key starts it every time, without fail.

Perhaps your X needs what mine did/does (more power & a known good key), and then you can chase down the real problems.

P.S. my EWS codes all went away everytime the battery SOC got better, sometimes immediately and others after a few starts.

Yeah it looks like that's more likely the case the more I dig into it. I might have some sort of parasitic draw also because I voltage somehow went down .4 within the last 24 hours. It's cold up here too so that may play a role too.

[DTM_Theory]

Quick update..

I went ahead and checked all fuses related to the issue. All are good.

Also, out of pure desperation I decided to try resetting/resyncing the rolling code values in INPA again (Option F2, then Option F1 respectively, followed by the catch procedure) to see if i could get them to somehow match again. Although it still doesn't start, it now cranks again!!

It actually sputtered on, then died after that on one attempt before going back to just cranking. At that point I stopped due to not wanting to kill that battery and/or cause further problems. So now i'm back to my initial problem. I'll be checking fuel pressure and will recharge by battery as well, then go from there.

A healthy battery at rest is between 12.4v - 12.6v I believe right?

[EODguy]

Buy a new battery.
Mine went to hell all at once and showed crazy things, like outside temp at -40c (which shutdown the AC) not fun at 43c and killed the EWS so I had to replace it...

Sent from Embassy network using Tapatalk

[DTM_Theory]

Update.

Alright, so I took out my battery and put on a charger for the past 24 or so hours. Let it charge fully then tickle charge afterwards (the Noco Genius 10 is an amazing device, btw ). After it was done - I got about 13.6v on the multimeter, cool. I put in the car, and I'll be damned.. it started. It sputtered/struggled a bit, but hitting the throttle pushed it over. I'm just thankful I didn't have some serious EWS->DME issue.

However I'd like opinions on some voltage readings i've been getting while it was running (via Hidden Menu 9). These readings were all during idle also.

Idle | IHKA Off | Headlights Off - between 13.6v - 13.7v
Idle | IHKA On | Headlights Off - between 13.4v - 13.5v
Idle | IHKA on | Headlight On - between 13.1v - 13.3v
Off | 12.7 - 12.8 (on the battery)

Are these measurements indicative on an alternator prematurely going out? Some folks here report an average of 14v from the alternator - although I'm not sure if it's idle or under load. If so, I may have to start sourcing a used one from the junk yard.

My apologies for the pickiness/paranoia, I just really love my car. haha

[80stech]

Voltage doesn't really tell you much about the condition of the battery without putting a load on it. You should really be measuring charging voltage with a meter and not the menu. The regulator alters voltage with temperature so plays a role as well. There are lots of good threads here about testing the battery and alternator.

[DTM_Theory]

Originally Posted by 80stech

Voltage doesn't really tell you much about the condition of the battery without putting a load on it. You should really be measuring charging voltage with a meter and not the menu. The regulator alters voltage with temperature so plays a role as well. There are lots of good threads here about testing the battery and alternator.

Good point. I'll definitely try that out. Thanks for all your help.

[miloh]

What is the life of batteries? 5-7 years or so? Do you have any history on the battery? Brand, model, when it was installed etc. There were threads about good batteries to buy that had excellent descriptions about the battery stats you should care about for this car. Wish I remembered off the top of my head you have to dig a bit I think. If you type on google site:xoutpost.com before whatever you search you can index through this website

[DTM_Theory]

It's weird. The battery is only about 10 months old. At the time I was in need of one ASAP so I bought a Duralast Gold (900CCA, H8, Size 49, etc etc). I went for a test drive today and it looks like load voltage on the alternator was hovering between 12.7v - 13.1v. Resting with the car off is at between 12.4v - 12.6v at the battery. Using the Hidden Menu 9 (Yes, I know, inaccurate) I think the culprit was probably my alternator the entire time.

While my battery was charging I decided to change my lower intake boot due to some lean codes I was getting. While taking things apart I noticed the alternator air duct was completely disconnected from the alternator! We've had a lot of rain up here and I can't count how many little puddles I've probably drove through. I'm going to load test the alternator with it running soon and see what's going on. Those volts don't look right to me. I may have to scrap a used one from the junk yard soon.

[miloh]

Then you did all that. I’d test the alternator with load.

[DTM_Theory]

Update.

So I tested the battery and alternator yesterday after about a 30 minute drive and 30 minute rest after that. At the battery posts I got about 12.7v - 12.8v at rest, and 13.8v - 14v idle with the headlights and AC on full blast. This was done using a multimeter. I decided to tightened the battery clamps just to be sure nothing gets loosen again in the future while driving. I turned the car on.. and I got the No Crank / No Start issue again. Pulled up INPA, error 209 came back.

FWIW, I have been getting an intermittent message to check break light and back light that seems to be going off and on. Opened my front passenger door to grab things out of that side.

I attempted to reset/resync the rolling codes twice in INPA, didn't get any errors, then did the catch procedure. Still No Crank / No Start. I've also tried an EWS/DME Adaptations reset in PASoft as well.. same result. Is this is a sign of a bad key fob? Or some sort of short in the electrical system?

I'm completely confused as to why this would happen after successfully starting/driving the car multiple times.