INPA 209 EWS-Code Error

[DTM_Theory]

Previously I was attempting to replace a SAP because it was going out. Upon replacing it my engine would crank but no spark to start the engine.

Running INPA on the EWS and DME gave me two codes;

From EWS: Error 15 - Power-On-Reset
From the Engine: Error 209

Previously I wasn't getting Error 209, but because of Error 15 on the EWS research suggested it could be an issue with rolling codes between the EWS/DME not matching; thus the the crank/no start issue. I tried to resync them using INPA, then it gave me the Error 209 code when running INPA again. I tried to reset it as well (using option F2) and I still now get no crank/no start. Today I took my battery to an auto parts store and had them check it. It was running at 11.6v and they recharged it. So the battery seems to be good now regarding the EWS.

Leaving the key in the ignition, putting it in position 1, and opening the door gives me a ring with an error in OBC saying "key in ignition" So that would rule out the issue being the key transponder, keyring, and ignition switch right? I'm sort of confused. Should I try replacing the key itself? Any ideas? I'm at the loss at the moment.

[miloh]

Research you might have seen that could be helpful (I have no idea): https://www.e46fanatics.com/threads/...olved.1305067/

[80stech]

So now you're saying you initially had 'no spark' after changing the SAP ? Did you check to make sure you didn't pinch any wires under that cover that you fitted at the same time?? If I recall, it would be pretty easy to get some wires pinched under bolts that hold the cover if they where a little long. You only got the EWS code after resynching right??

[DTM_Theory]

Originally Posted by 80stech

So now you're saying you initially had 'no spark' after changing the SAP ? Did you check to make sure you didn't pinch any wires under that cover that you fitted at the same time?? If I recall, it would be pretty easy to get some wires pinched under bolts that hold the cover if they where a little long. You only got the EWS code after resynching right??

Yeah. Initially had a Crank / No Start issue as soon as I swapped my SAP. Plugging both the SAP Pump and Sensor didn't work either. At that point I figured the issue may be fuel delivery or an EWS problem as suggested by another poster. I didn't have a fuel pressure tester at the time which is I why went the EWS route for troubleshooting. When fitting the fuel rail cover I made sure not to pinch the o2 sensor wires that were mounted to their clips. Other than that I'm not sure what I could've possibly pinched.

Since trying to resync the EWS rolling codes in INPA was when that 209 error came up, and now I'm with a No Crank / No Start issue. FWIW, I fired up BMW Scanner 1.4 also and it pulled up the same codes. One thing I did notice next to the error code in BMW Scanner was the "EWS Signal is wrong, EWS Code implausible" Description. Even though the battery is fully charged, i'm thinking it's low voltage, parasitic draw, or my key/transponder isn't talking to the EWS somehow. Any ideas?

[DTM_Theory]

Originally Posted by miloh

Research you might have seen that could be helpful (I have no idea): https://www.e46fanatics.com/threads/...olved.1305067/

That's useful. I'll looking into that and dig into what those folks have tried. Thanks.

[miloh]

Originally Posted by DTM_Theory

That's useful. I'll looking into that and dig into what those folks have tried. Thanks.

Here this one seems more up your alley: https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...Power-on-reset

EDIT: Maybe get a jump pack or trickle charger, charge it for a while and then try cranking once you clear the codes. They write in the forum post for that persons situation, “if a battery is aging.” Which if yours was at 11.6v makes me suspicious of it generally speaking. Coming from electronics, devices like phones will throttle themselves near the end of a battery lifespan because consistent high voltage is no longer possible from the battery. Granted those are lithium and we’re with lead acid (I think that’s all true lol, I’m not sure)

[DTM_Theory]

You've raised a good point. Apparently BMWs do all sorts of crazy things when the voltage is below threshold. I'll definitely try and report back. Thank you guys.

[Clavurion]

EWS re-sync doesn't work correctly on many INPA versions so you have likely lost the sync because of your re-sync attempt. The EWS Power on reset code has nothing to do with it and can show many times as a temporary non active code which you can usually ignore. You will need some other diagnostics to do the re-sync. (as BMW software either older DIS or current ISTA.) After you have done the re-sync you can start figuring out the actual cause for non starting. If there are no active codes on DME it's likely fuel supply related because that is the only thing not monitored.

[DTM_Theory]

Yeah I believe the Crank / No Start problem is probably fuel related. I just have to get EWS to behave right. I'm currently using INPA 5.06 - INPA stated a value is already stored in the DME and it's stored and understood (Trying Option F1 and Option F2 respectively, when attempting to resync). Also from my research, I'm seeing different procedures for "catching" the resync after those steps are done in INPA;

either
1. remove key and wait 20 seconds before attempting to restart or,
2. remove key, get out the car, arm it (via fob or driver door), wait 30 seconds, unarm it, and try again.

I'm going to try the second option in a bit, since option 1 didn't work about three times now. I'm leaning more towards the battery voltage not being enough for the ews/dme to behave correctly; as outlined in the thread above.

Is my version of INPA one of those that doesn't sync correctly?

[workingonit]

Originally Posted by DTM_Theory

...Even though the battery is fully charged, i'm thinking it's low voltage, parasitic draw, or my key/transponder isn't talking to the EWS somehow. Any ideas?

I've encountered EWS problems several times over 4 years, whenever

• 1) I try to troubleshoot for extended p[eriods without the engine running (my M54 averages 14v at idle-1500rpm),
• 2) I try any troubleshooting if my battery is low, dying, or near dead (even my Foxwell scan tool doesn't work correctly, usually only readin a partial list of modules), and
• 3) my key is giving me intermittent contact problems (I may have to flip the OEM "damaged but repaired" key over and try again, or "hold my mouth right", or just give it a rest 'til another day)

My usual workaround is to attach a 20amp "stable power supply" and try again, monitoring the battery voltage until it's over 13v when I try, and that has worked up until recently. My single OEM key started being unreliable, despite the 13+v, so I finally bought a new Valet key, so I can take apart my old key for possible repairs, and still be able to start the X, while the repair is being attempted.

Since my X is down due to a bad fuel system, and i've had health problems causing me to not rush repairs of the X or the key, the X is sitting on a good maintenance charge, and the Valet key starts it every time, without fail.

Perhaps your X needs what mine did/does (more power & a known good key), and then you can chase down the real problems.

P.S. my EWS codes all went away everytime the battery SOC got better, sometimes immediately and others after a few starts.