Front suspension questions

[andrewwynn]

Originally Posted by Fifty150hs

I jack the axles up to correct ride height with the car on jack stands when I torque the tension strut bolts. Much easier to get to and the suspension doesn't "know" its not on the ground.

It's the only way to go. I think ideally you need to lift at the hub to get it perfect i don't have the ideal tool that is held on by the lugs to lift from the bottom. I started putting the lugs in holding the rotor tight and lift from the bottom of the rotor to simulate being on the ground. If you lift from under the spring it won't compress as much.


–awr–

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[BenFenner]

Originally Posted by andrewwynn

I bought the Neiko torque multiplier and is my favorite tool for big suspension bolts. 165/3=55 ft·lb to tighten monster bolts.

I purchased this same unit in preparation for removing and reinstalling the front main pulley on the E53. I haven't gotten to that job yet, but it has already come in very handy removing the flywheel bolts on my E90 M3.

A note about that math.

It is not especially accurate, but more like 165/2.46 = 67 ft·lb
See this video beginning at timestamp 7:22:
https://youtu.be/npM78T3SrH0?si=5ICmtoVTSzJ3NkIi&t=442

[Fifty150hs]

Originally Posted by andrewwynn

It's the only way to go. I think ideally you need to lift at the hub to get it perfect i don't have the ideal tool that is held on by the lugs to lift from the bottom. I started putting the lugs in holding the rotor tight and lift from the bottom of the rotor to simulate being on the ground. If you lift from under the spring it won't compress as much.


–awr–

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That's typically what I do. I have coil overs and have lowered my X 2", so it doesn't compress much anyway.

[Henn28]

Originally Posted by Fifty150hs

Changed mine to poly bushings. I think they're the best way to go. They have lifetime warranty and I haven't ever had to refresh the grease.

Yeah, I’m not sure why they started to squeak so badly on the OE grease. It looked like the clear synthetic stuff, and I thought I slathered it on with a heavy hand too. So far the white lithium stuff I had on hand seems to be working. The ride is nice on them tho…and a bit more quiet than the monoballs.

Andrew, thanks for the advice on airing the tires around town. I’m not too good at that and tend to run them a bit high, hoping, in vain, for better mpg. I’ll drop them down next week when im back in town.

[80stech]

Tire pressure has a much more noticeable impact on wear than gas mileage.

[andrewwynn]

Originally Posted by BenFenner

I purchased this same unit in preparation for removing and reinstalling the front main pulley on the E53. I haven't gotten to that job yet, but it has already come in very handy removing the flywheel bolts on my E90 M3.

A note about that math.

It is not especially accurate, but more like 165/2.46 = 67 ft·lb
See this video beginning at timestamp 7:22:
https://youtu.be/npM78T3SrH0?si=5ICmtoVTSzJ3NkIi&t=442

I'm familiar with that exact video. They made a big error in how they attached the reaction arm. If you want the math to work you need to apply the torque 180° from the reaction arm.

I use a jack stand to hold the reaction arm horizonal and apply the measured torque exactly opposite.

I've measured the input vs. output torque and it was spot on 3:1 in the 100-150 ft·lb output range.

Using a 1" bolt at 150 ft·lb, 50 ft·lb input it was within 3%. In fact some tests were exact. 30 ft·lb in for 90 ft·lb out to one decimal place.

I was actually going to reference that video to explain at normal human levels you will get the 3:1 torque that Neiko specifies.

I've trusted up to 225 ft·lb output doing suspension and 300+ on axle nuts i think spec was 330 so 110 on the torque adapter.

I will do another round of testing at some point but my test was this:

1/2" input with digital click torque wrench, into the multipler, 3/4 to 1/2 adapter through my 1/2" digital torque adapter that has peak reading.

First test was tighten some lubricated 1/2-20 to spec of 90 ft·lb.

30 click on the input and 90 ± 2 on the output.

Similar, used a 1.5" socket on 1" bolt "snugged" to 150 ft·lb. Was within the 2% of the input rating.

Repeated each test several times.

I was not too happy to see such a big difference in my personal experience but when you see how they used a chain at an extreme angle, the sideways force on the output shaft would be 2-3x what would happen from 180° application of force and counter force and i suspect that's why they had such a big difference.

The design is 3.3:1 gearing on purpose to make tge torque ratio easier to work woth. (3:1)

I'm happy to use the 3:1 but i will do another test at some point


–awr–

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[miloh]

now this is podracing

[paramax55]

This many years down the road, it seems like most aftermarket parts are made by the same manufacturer. Sometimes you get lucky, sometimes you don't. I bought an eBay kit that had all of the parts for both sides. It was a 10 piece kit for about $120.00. It worked well and solved my twitchey steering. Actually, my more-than-normal toe probably also had something to do with it.

The ball joint that's held in with two bolts can be pretty stuck. And the tie rod ends are known for freezing. But an acetyline torch can fix both of those problems.

[andrewwynn]

I changed the main ball joint you describe on my e53: was one of the last jobs i did.

One popped out with a couple his of the hammer the other took the better part of an hour.

I use mapp* gas there's just a lot of metal to wick away the heat meant to help.

*It's no longer actually mapp but it still burns hotter than propane.


–awr–

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