Help needed. Problem with start-up getting worse. Did some testing but need more help

[Estroil 4.8is]

I remember seeing something on here on how to program your key to your car. I will give it a shot today. Thanks for the idea. It's worth a shot!!

Actually I just reprogramed one of them. I will use that key from now on and see if it still occurs. I'm crossing my fingers!

[The Cleaner]

Ignition switch, that is the place the power to the starter originates. Turning the key all the way past “ON” to signal the starter to engage is unique to the ignition switch.
That is your starting point, check that you have power off that switch when you turn it past on to initiate the starter. If power is leaving the switch move to the fuse box and relays. That ignition switch is likely the problem due to the intermittent nature of what’s happening.

List price 49.00 part number 61 32 6 901 961, time to change (if you have never done it) 1.5 hours.

[The Cleaner]

Oh Let me state I have not done an X5 yet, I have done 325's and it's the same switch.

Good Luck

[Estroil 4.8is]

Thank you very informative. I will try to find power at the switch. Hopefully I will find something there. $50 is a steal to fix it. Thanks again

[Estroil 4.8is]

OK. I took apart the column. Is the large white terminal block on the left side of the column the ignition switch terminals? If so, I had the problem happen and the lower light-green wire on the ignition wiring block showed 2 volts. The rest of the time the light-green wire showed 12volt. Looks like that is the culprit! I will order one asap. How tough is the install? I'm not sure how you remove the lock cylinder. Also how do you program the old key. Or does the ignition come with a new key and reprogram the old ones. Again thanks for your help this may be it.

[The Cleaner]

The switch is connected to the ignition lock assembly directly behind where you insert the Key. Since I have not done an X5 yet proceed slowly... but it should be very similar to the 325’s. That switch is kinda square and has a wiring harness plugged into it. Disconnect the harness and there is probably 2 set screws that hold it to the ignition lock assembly. They probably are painted orange or yellow. Once those set screws are out the switch will pull off the ignition lock assembly. I do not know what else is under there, but it will be tight I am sure. You are not messing with the ignition lock side, you need to work from the side inside the column. I made the mistake of removing the ignition lock and cylinder, that was a waste of time.

[The Cleaner]

Sorry I forgot, the key thing you are talking about is not related to the switch, all that "mess" is in the lock cylinder, you are actually not even dealing with that.

[Estroil 4.8is]

Thanks I went on real Oem and see what you mean. The switch is seperate from the lock cylinder. I see to hex bolts that hold the switch in place. Looks fairly simple and I have plenty of room with the wheel extended out. I will let you know how it goes once the part comes in. I owe you! Rob

[The Cleaner]

I just re-read your post, i gave you the switch number for a 3.0 not a 4.4, apperently they are different, you need 61 32 6 901 962, same price however.
Sorry, It's habbit to look up parts for 3.0

[Estroil 4.8is]

No problem I just ordered the switch from PelicanParts.com. They had it in stock. $59.14 shipped!! Should have it next week.