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  #91  
Old 08-18-2006, 11:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Cleaner
that has ended my job quick, gonna do everything else but my pullers were not up the the job, brand new over even broke.
40 bucks from the local autozone will get you right back up to speed

like i always said: "if you don't go get new tools, it ain't a diy session " LOL

you'll have it done in no time after that....

btw.. diy is done. jeff is gonna get it posted in the articles section soon.
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  #92  
Old 08-18-2006, 11:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Cleaner
that has ended my job quick, gonna do everything else but my pullers were not up the the job, brand new over even broke.
Cleaner,

Did you have everything else unbolted from the axle support frame? If you didn't, that will make it a little harder to pop off the carrier assembly. Mine wasn't too hard to take off but it did require a lil time and effort. I used a 3 jaw puller and a long a$$ breaker bar to get the job done.


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  #93  
Old 08-18-2006, 11:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hayaku
40 bucks from the local autozone will get you right back up to speed

like i always said: "if you don't go get new tools, it ain't a diy session " LOL

you'll have it done in no time after that....

btw.. diy is done. jeff is gonna get it posted in the articles section soon.
Dude I didnt forget about you and sending you those pics for the diy reference. Been busy and havent had time to get them off my laptop. If you still want them let me know k.
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  #94  
Old 08-18-2006, 11:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ecko
Dude I didnt forget about you and sending you those pics for the diy reference. Been busy and havent had time to get them off my laptop. If you still want them let me know k.
if you got the ones where you took apart the cv joint itself, that would be great. otherwise, i used the 2 pics you posted that had the ball bearings out (gave ya credit in the diy too )
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  #95  
Old 08-18-2006, 11:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hayaku
if you got the ones where you took apart the cv joint itself, that would be great. otherwise, i used the 2 pics you posted that had the ball bearings out (gave ya credit in the diy too )
Awesome bro, I'll PM you the pics ASAP like right now!!!!!
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  #96  
Old 08-19-2006, 12:21 AM
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Ok I have taken a shower and pressed in the new support arm bushing which was broken, that was the entire reason I need to get in there, the boots are cracked but not broken yet. The new puller was a craftsman so I’ll swing by and get another one tomorrow and try again.

It went like this... When I could not find my breaker bar I switch to air on the pullers which was not wise, but I was all set up so I pulled the trigger till I had 450 foot pounds and I was not moving an millimeter. I cranked the gun to 700 and lost my old reliable puller and switched to the smaller craftsman that snapped an ear when I was about half way that pressure.

Interesting the new control arms are different, they have a metal sleeve now, I have never seen that before.

Anyway, I only took a couple pics, one of the new control arm and one of pressing the new bushing in.
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Last edited by The Cleaner; 08-19-2006 at 12:27 AM.
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  #97  
Old 08-19-2006, 02:04 PM
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Update, new puller and still no luck getting the thing to break free. If I go any harder it will break again, only 5 ton rated. Gonna have to go to my freinds shop and use a more agressive hydralic puller. I think I know why It's so hard. I live less than a 1/4 mile from the beach and beautiful pacific ocean. My cars NEVER stay outside due to the heavy fog and high salt content in the air (stainless steel will start to rust in days). Anyway my cars did have to live outside for 8 months wheh my house was getting remodled, I think maybe the shaft and the hub are on there with some help of rust. Really disapointed I have to do this again.
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  #98  
Old 08-19-2006, 02:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Cleaner
Update, new puller and still no luck getting the thing to break free. If I go any harder it will break again, only 5 ton rated. Gonna have to go to my freinds shop and use a more agressive hydralic puller. I think I know why It's so hard. I live less than a 1/4 mile from the beach and beautiful pacific ocean. My cars NEVER stay outside due to the heavy fog and high salt content in the air (stainless steel will start to rust in days). Anyway my cars did have to live outside for 8 months wheh my house was getting remodled, I think maybe the shaft and the hub are on there with some help of rust. Really disapointed I have to do this again.
dang.. sorry to hear...

while i thought i was stuck in my progress about not having that special bmw hub tool, my car was up on the lift for at least 24 hours. i had blasted the hub area with lots of wd40 in preparation of trying to pull it (so it soaked for a long time). I only had to use a standard 24" break bar to start it, then switched to a standard 1/2" rachet with not much effort...

although your high salt and water content in your area does make it more challenging, perhaps a good soak in some penetrating oil will help?

i'm sure that hydraulic puller will work in the end tho...

good luck
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  #99  
Old 08-19-2006, 03:20 PM
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It will get done, next week probably, only been beaten once before and that was a rear wheel bearing that the race was welded into the trailing arm.
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  #100  
Old 08-19-2006, 08:06 PM
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I just got my car back from Stealer. Here are some pics that I took after I got the cv boot fixed, it seems like I got the whole half Shaft replaced with new one. Attached pictures with different angles and I hope it will help any of us who have done this job before and figure out how dealer fix this problem with in 2 hrs without removed too much nuts and bolts. Because the old grease still there before and after it's done.

Total charge from dealer before deductible was 667
Half Shaft $487.00
Labor $189.00
Nut $11.00
I paid from my pocket was 118.00 included the nuts because the warranty does not cover any nuts and bolts.

I hope these pics helps.
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