Custom Subwoofer Enclosure and Amp Installed

[malcris]

Hi All,
Just started reading through the thread and I'm just wondering if anyone has thought of using the driver side compartment where the factory amp/cd setup is. I've already got rid of the factory cd changer in favor of an ipod 2point5 kit see this link: BMWE53V2IPKG. I've got a Jl 10w6v2 and I'm considering using mdf to replace the factory cover for the compartment. I figure I can relocate the factory amp and use the entire compartment which is definetly larger than the one on the passanger side (no fuse box, no fuel latch). Also, I figure I can remove the plastic block used to hold the spare tire compartment cover in favor of more box space. If I carpet it to match the interior it should be pretty good. Also, there are a couple of factory screw holes for mounting near the top of the compartment (to the left and right of where the factory compartment cover's latch is).

any suggestions would be greatly appreciated, I'll post pics as the project unfolds...

BTW. I've got the factory non-dsp non nav system. I'm in the process of doing a complete gut saving only the factory head unit (love the factory look and my steering wheel controls).

Here's the list of gear I currently have:

Front speakers: DLS iridium 6.3 3 way seperates
Rear Speakers: DLS iridium 6.2 2 way seperates
LOC (to convert high level signal from factory amp): Rockford 3sixty.1
Subwoofer: JL Audio 10w6v2 DVC
Amp 1 (Front/Rear): Old School PPI Art Series 404x (4x100)
Amp 2 (Sub): Jl Audio 500/1

Total Gear cost: About $2500 (The PPI is really old and I've had it for a long time, I forget what I paid but for those in the know, there is no substitute)

[m5james]

Using the passenger side compartment is easier and has the same amount of space w/o the need to relocate the amp. I hope you're not making the same initial mistake I did which is not realizing that there is also room under the floor. Search for some of the other subwoofer enclosure threads on here and you'll see what I mean. I don't see any benefit of relocating everything from the drivers side to the passengers side when both compartments are identical to each other. The fuse box takes up minimal space above the enclosure, and I removed my fuel door latch and the welded bracket (just wiggled back and forth till it came off) to make a hair more room for my total internal volume.

[malcris]

thanks James,
I wasn't anticipating using the space under the floor as extra enclosure space so much as a good place to use the factory screw posts as added support for the enclosure. Also, I plan on using mdf to re-create the factory hatch, have you tried this? if so how did you secure the bottom of the hatch (i.e. my thinking using the factory posts underneath the plastic piece on the side. I figure I can put some felt or something underneath it so it won't rattle. As far as using the driver's side, I'm eliminating the factory amp and housings anyway so it's no big deal using this side. I'm still not sure If the AM/FM tuner located in the tire well is directly connected to the head or if it runs off of the factory amp, haven't taken it apart yet to see. Also, I plan on using the Passanger side to mount my amps as they are too big to fit on the factory rack on the drivers side and I don't think they'll fit in the tire well. Side note: Have you experienced any problems with the electrical system in the car. I've heard that the computers in these things are a little touchy and adding a 70-100 amp draw sounds scary....Any suggestions...deep cycle battery/gel cell?

[m5james]

I haven't gutted the trunk area of my X for a few months, but if we're talking about the same thing and making an enclosure similar to the size of BSW's, then you could make your own enclosure and put it on either side since you're ditching the factory setup. I removed the factory amp and rewired all 14 speakers locations in my 740iL...it was hell, but I got it.

You mentioned that you're planning on keeping the factory deck so you can use the steering wheel stereo controls, so I don't know how you plan on being able to do that, unless I missed something. I'm not sure how the tuner works, if it's independant or intergrated into the stock deck since I'm bone stock in the X and completely custom in the 7.

The electrical system in BMW's have and always will be hell, but I haven't had any problems in my 7. I run a 1500watt monoblock MTX 81000D amp running a single DVC RE Audio 12" in a huge box, no cap, and it runs w/o a problem. It's convenient that the battery is located in the back, so your amp will love the short current path of power. I'd just make sure to use screen 7 (I think) on the OBC and monitor the battery voltage if you suspect your system is giving you gremlins after you get it up and running. I still run the factory BMW battery in the X, but the 7 had a Duralast (Autozone) 69D (I think) battery...similar CCA and size, longer warranty and only cost like $90.

[malcris]

thanks again,
I'm using something from rockford fosgate called the 3sixty.1 here's the link: http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/product_details.asp?cat_id=1&series_id=49&family_i d=50&item_id=106185&locale=en_US&p_status=[/URL]

It will let me take the signal from the head unit sum up all of the cut frequency's and process them via a laptop add on program so that I can send a clean pre-amp out signal to my aftermarket amps. The cool thing about this thing is I can adjust the levels of each individual speaker via a laptop....pretty cool....

As far as the enclosure goes, I've made up my mind to go with MDF, I'm actually creating a template for the front cover while I'm writing this. The spot I am referring to is the plastic piece located under the floor cover that is held in by 2 plastic 10mm nuts. I plan on making a flange on the bottom of the front face of the enclosure and drilling a couple of hole to utilize the bolt posts that come out of the chassis. I'm guessing these along with the two bolts at the top (the ones that hold the fuse box on the pass side) should be enough to secure the box. I'll let you know how the mock-up I'm currently making works out. Will send pics if it works , when its done....

[m5james]

Damn bro, that thing looks like it could be fun or a headache. Keep us posted for sure. My box is basically a custom made version of Zero's custom box, just made larger to fit super tight and to use up the space from where the fuel door locking mechanism was.

[newdezign]

Does anyone know the facotory amplifier's power output (watts) to the subwoofer? My '05 has upgraded sound with DSP, sounds good, except the bass from the factory 2x 6.5" subwoofers is a little light, I was thinking of modifying the factory sub enclosure to house a relatively low power dvc 10" subwoofer, driven by the factory sub amplifier ouput. If that works, great, but if the oem amp can't power the sub properly, I can always upgrade to an after market amp at a later date.

Any thoughts?

[malcris]

Don't know the power rating on that but I'm sure a decent aftermarket will provide much better output, especially since the factory is only pushing 2-6" drivers. The 10" will need significantly more muscle to move it properly.

[m5james]

Originally Posted by malcris

Don't know the power rating on that but I'm sure a decent aftermarket will provide much better output, especially since the factory is only pushing 2-6" drivers. The 10" will need significantly more muscle to move it properly.

Some have just taken the stock enclosure, cut the face off and fiberglasses a piece of MDF on in order to mount a 8"-10" sub. Many people keep asking about going up to a 12", but a good 8"-10" in the right airspace will always sound better than a 12" in too little airspace. If you're going to go through all the trouble, just pick up a nice 300 something watt monoblock amp like I did for $80.

[malcris]

Getting back to the enclosure I was making.........MDF is simply not an option if you want to maximize the space in the rear cargo holds and use a normal sized subwoofer . It doesn't make any sense to me to go through all of the trouble to create a sub enclosure for a slim mount if the net gain isn't all that much. Therefore, I've succumbed to making a fiberglass enclosure (first one) but it's gonna have to wait until the temps warm up a bit.