Oil Separator Valve DIY? - Page 5

Wayne's World · #41 04-05-2009, 12:09 AM

Hey guys - on my '06 3.0, I'm trying to get the stupid OS out but I want to reuse the hoses. They're in very good condition and are the newer updated ones with insulation around them. Even my OS is insulated. The lines look pretty clear and not all gunked up. I'm stuck trying to get the OS out. I've got the bottom hose out but the lower and upper are near impossible to get off of the OS. I tried disconnecting them from above the intake manifold and valve cover and tried to pull the OS out and bring the hoses along but it just won't budge from where it's at. I've removed both T25 Torx bolts for the OS and it's loose but just can't seem to wiggle it out of there. Should I snap it in half? Any suggestions?? I'm STUCK!.

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Jr ///MSport · #42 04-05-2009, 08:29 AM

There is not enough room to remove the O/S along with the hoses. The old version (non insulated) hoses will easily snap away from the O/S and allow you to remove it. Although disconnecting the hoses can be done, they usually snap because of the years of engine heat. Save some aggravation and buy new hoses.

The updated version of the O/S kit comes with a new dipstick, and costs about $400 for everything. The old dipstick has a smaller drain tube that goes back into the crankcase, this is where the whole problem starts. Oil and condensate have mixed, and allowing it to go back into the crankcase will allow the condensate to boil off. It works in theory, but the smaller opening soon sludges up and then the oil/water mixture is trapped inside the oil seperator. In extreme freezing weather conditions after sitting overnight the condensate inside the seperator freezes the valve in a closed position. When you start the car, pressure inside the crankcase builds up and usually blows off the valve cover gasket. This brings us back to the smaller drain tube that connects to the oil dipstick. If the updated dipstick tube isn't used, chances are, you will have the same problem later. The updated dipstick is a much larger opening and uses a full size drain all the way to the oil pan. The insulated O/S along with the improved drain will give time for the condensate to drain away in colder temperatures before it freezes the valve shut.
Replacing the O/S without the new designed dipstick will not alleviate your problem. But there is something to can try to buy some longevity in the repair.
Remove the dipstick entirely and using a metal wiper blade insert, run it through the drain line to clear out the opening. Wire usually isn't strong enough.
I hope this information helps those that are having this problem to understand what is actually going on with this system. The job is tight enough without having to do it twice and using just the regular replacement (non insulated) parts is only a temporary fix. Consider replacing the dipstick with the updated version so the system can work properly. Maybe you won't be on the side of the road with smoke boiling out of the hood because the valve cover gasket blew again, in sub-zero temperatures, because if it's going to fail again, it will fail when it's extremely cold outside.

JR

X5 Meister · #43 04-05-2009, 05:53 PM

The dipstick is a redesigned part just so you know. Post # 12

http://www.xoutpost.com/x5-e53-forum/...ng-else-2.html

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jr ///MSport

There is not enough room to remove the O/S along with the hoses. The old version (non insulated) hoses will easily snap away from the O/S and allow you to remove it. Although disconnecting the hoses can be done, they usually snap because of the years of engine heat. Save some aggravation and buy new hoses.

The updated version of the O/S kit comes with a new dipstick, and costs about $400 for everything. The old dipstick has a smaller drain tube that goes back into the crankcase, this is where the whole problem starts. Oil and condensate have mixed, and allowing it to go back into the crankcase will allow the condensate to boil off. It works in theory, but the smaller opening soon sludges up and then the oil/water mixture is trapped inside the oil seperator. In extreme freezing weather conditions after sitting overnight the condensate inside the seperator freezes the valve in a closed position. When you start the car, pressure inside the crankcase builds up and usually blows off the valve cover gasket. This brings us back to the smaller drain tube that connects to the oil dipstick. If the updated dipstick tube isn't used, chances are, you will have the same problem later. The updated dipstick is a much larger opening and uses a full size drain all the way to the oil pan. The insulated O/S along with the improved drain will give time for the condensate to drain away in colder temperatures before it freezes the valve shut.
Replacing the O/S without the new designed dipstick will not alleviate your problem. But there is something to can try to buy some longevity in the repair.
Remove the dipstick entirely and using a metal wiper blade insert, run it through the drain line to clear out the opening. Wire usually isn't strong enough.
I hope this information helps those that are having this problem to understand what is actually going on with this system. The job is tight enough without having to do it twice and using just the regular replacement (non insulated) parts is only a temporary fix. Consider replacing the dipstick with the updated version so the system can work properly. Maybe you won't be on the side of the road with smoke boiling out of the hood because the valve cover gasket blew again, in sub-zero temperatures, because if it's going to fail again, it will fail when it's extremely cold outside.

JR

Jr ///MSport · #44 04-05-2009, 06:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by X5 Meister

The dipstick is a redesigned part just so you know. Post # 12

http://www.xoutpost.com/x5-e53-forum/...ng-else-2.html

Exactly right, making this repair without the updated dipstick will ensure future failure. It also makes up about $110 of the $400 repair package.

Just wanted to share the trick about using the metal wiper insert to clear the opening of the old type dipstick if you don't have the money to opt for a new one.

Thanks for adding to the clarification.
JR

X5 Meister · #45 04-05-2009, 08:42 PM

No problem. Great tip with the wiper btw.

Wayne's World · #46 04-05-2009, 11:29 PM

Thanks for the replies guys. I did end up using the wiper blade to clear out anything that's there. I never really had any probs to begin with but this was just a preventative maintenance type thing as the result of a failed OS is pretty disasterous. I also don't live in an area with sub zero temps. The coldest it will typically get is 20F and that is rare. This was probably the job from hell and I dont think I ever want to do that again.