new OEM front rotors out of round? - Page 3

Weasel · #1 08-23-2008, 11:19 PM

Yeah, I forget about the regular pricing at the dealer... I probably couldn't afford my BMW's if I didn't work there... :eek:

we350z · #2 08-23-2008, 11:37 PM

hahaha, so are you a BMW certified master mechanic? How many BMW's do you have? I hope they don't give you as much trouble as mine does

To be honest as much as I love my X5 I would sell this beast in a heartbeat If wouldn't take such a bath on it right now. I am moving to SF and I can't have 2 cars there. No way I am selling my classic '93 300ZX TT w/40Kmi. But I am thinking I will keep the X5 and use it to move and tow my Z then try and sell it in the bay area. I definately need to get her roadworthy first lol. Dunno I feel I have invested too much time in the form of blood sweat and tears not to mention monetarily about $1700 on rims, tires, nav, tint, speakers, trim, trinkets, etc...

Quote:

Originally Posted by weasel56

Yeah, I forget about the regular pricing at the dealer... I probably couldn't afford my BMW's if I didn't work there... :eek:

Weasel · #3 08-23-2008, 11:50 PM

I am a BMW certified mechanic, but haven't made it up to master yet... there's alot of schooling before you reach that level. I have of course my 4.6is, the '98 528i I bought for my mother to drive, and the '93 325is I am selling... gonna miss it when its gone though... great car.

But I don't blame you on wanting to keep the Z! Thats gotta be a blast! But why can't you have 2 vehicles in SF? Can't park 2 going down a hill?

we350z · #4 08-24-2008, 12:06 AM

Well... If I can find a way I will, but I will be lucky to find a place with secured parking for 1 car. Space is at a major premium there tho I think when I buy a place I can find something with a private garage. My parents crib is in Tahoe so I can always park it in their driveway there until I have space. The Z is a blast and I could never bring myself to sell it.

Quote:

Originally Posted by weasel56

I am a BMW certified mechanic, but haven't made it up to master yet... there's alot of schooling before you reach that level. I have of course my 4.6is, the '98 528i I bought for my mother to drive, and the '93 325is I am selling... gonna miss it when its gone though... great car.

But I don't blame you on wanting to keep the Z! Thats gotta be a blast! But why can't you have 2 vehicles in SF? Can't park 2 going down a hill?

we350z · #5 08-24-2008, 11:40 PM

weasel56 - any tips on removing the thrust arm after its popped out out of the swivel bearing assembly? Seems like it would be difficult to fit anything other than hand wrenches in there to remove the bolt that goes through the bushing. I usually leave this attached when i remove the half axle.

Weasel · #6 08-25-2008, 12:00 AM

Well, what I use actually is a couple of ratcheting hand wrenches to speed it up... but the bolt won't clear the brake air duct. It's just a couple more screws to remove it. After the brake duct is removed, you can fit a regular socket wrench on that side.

Another tip, the arm is a bitch to get off of the swivel joint. Go spend a couple bucks at the auto parts store for a set of inverted torx sockets and remove the 2 bolts that hold the joint to the spindle. E10 socket if I remember right. Then it just drops right out.

And more importantly, the spindle needs to be at "ride height" when the bolt through the bushing is fully tightened/torqued. Otherwise, it will always have torsion on the rubber and will end up tearing soon. In the driveway the easiest way would be to just jack up the spindle at the lower control arm to about the height it would be when driving. Other than that, not a bad job. Pays about 2.4 hours labor at the dealer, and does not call for an alignment with this repair because you touched nothing that affects alignment angles.

we350z · #7 08-25-2008, 12:36 AM

Cool. Where are the screws for the plastic brake air duct / how do i remove that?

I have a pitman arm puller to pop the other end off the swivel joint, works great.

I also knew about tightening everything back up with the wheels back on the ground so the suspension is at least partially compressed to prevent the bushings from getting worn out. I couldn't drop it all the way on the jack since I needed some room to get in there with extensions while holding the other side of the bolt with a hand wrench using my feet for the lower control arm (wish bone).

**Does this rule apply to both the upper and lower control arm? They both have bushings so they should be torqued with weight on them correct?

--Thanks!

Quote:

Originally Posted by weasel56

Well, what I use actually is a couple of ratcheting hand wrenches to speed it up... but the bolt won't clear the brake air duct. It's just a couple more screws to remove it. After the brake duct is removed, you can fit a regular socket wrench on that side.

Another tip, the arm is a bitch to get off of the swivel joint. Go spend a couple bucks at the auto parts store for a set of inverted torx sockets and remove the 2 bolts that hold the joint to the spindle. E10 socket if I remember right. Then it just drops right out.

And more importantly, the spindle needs to be at "ride height" when the bolt through the bushing is fully tightened/torqued. Otherwise, it will always have torsion on the rubber and will end up tearing soon. In the driveway the easiest way would be to just jack up the spindle at the lower control arm to about the height it would be when driving. Other than that, not a bad job. Pays about 2.4 hours labor at the dealer, and does not call for an alignment with this repair because you touched nothing that affects alignment angles.

Weasel · #8 08-25-2008, 01:13 PM

There are 3 screws on the brake duct. The obvious one right at the opening in the inner fender liner, and the other two you have to get to with the lower fender liner panel out. (triangle panel). The one against the body at the top of the back end of it, and the last one is also at the top of the duct to the body/frame and is further to the front... right in front of a bracket if I remember right. Just use fingervision and you should find it easily.

And as for tightening the bushings, any bushing that the center sleeve doesn't turn (any OEM bushing) needs to be at the the ride height to tighten properly. As for getting to that point while having room to wrench on it, Thats why I recommended leaving it up on jackstands and putting a hydrolic jack under the spindle at the lower control arm. That way you still have room to get to it.

we350z · #9 08-25-2008, 11:31 PM

Seems easy enough to remove the duct. Good call on the jack, for some reason I would have never thought of that lol. Is there a way to "mark" the ride height? So I know where to jack it up to? So it's not so much about the weight of the vehicle being on the bushing as it is just the suspension being compressed. I guess that's kind of the same thing...

Quote:

Originally Posted by weasel56

There are 3 screws on the brake duct. The obvious one right at the opening in the inner fender liner, and the other two you have to get to with the lower fender liner panel out. (triangle panel). The one against the body at the top of the back end of it, and the last one is also at the top of the duct to the body/frame and is further to the front... right in front of a bracket if I remember right. Just use fingervision and you should find it easily.

And as for tightening the bushings, any bushing that the center sleeve doesn't turn (any OEM bushing) needs to be at the the ride height to tighten properly. As for getting to that point while having room to wrench on it, Thats why I recommended leaving it up on jackstands and putting a hydrolic jack under the spindle at the lower control arm. That way you still have room to get to it.

Weasel · #10 08-25-2008, 11:42 PM

Well, to get it perfect would be to have both spindles supported by the jack stands and the vehicles weight on them.... Or if you have the standard cheap set of drive on ramps, you can leave the bolts a hair loose, get it together and back on its wheels, then drive on the ramps to get under it with it at ride height. But if you simply jack it up untill that side just comes off of the stand under the lifting pad... then go back down about 1-2 inches, that would be close enough.