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  #31  
Old 04-28-2009, 05:58 PM
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Just wanted to say thanks for this DIY. With some loaned tools (torque wrench and Breaker Bar) i was able to get this done in about 4 hrs. I'm so stoked thinking about the money I saved doing this myself.
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  #32  
Old 04-28-2009, 08:16 PM
GXL GXL is offline
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It's a 32mm.

I finally did it the other day!! With the right tools is really not that difficult, and I didn't have to take a picture or look online to remember how to put back the main belt.

In all, well worth it. Thanks to everyone that contributed to this thread and helped us to get the job done right and for the right price:-)
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  #33  
Old 07-23-2009, 10:19 PM
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Ok, following instructions. The DIY must be from "not" a 2004 3.0 as some of the bolts and tensioner parts are different. Most are the same though as far as instructions. I posted 2 pics of what I am having issues with. AC Tensioner worked like a charm and I got the AC Belt on without issue. Now, the Serpantine belt is another story. I routed it around pulleys as in pics, but I have no tension. There is "NO" Upper Tensioner nut as in pics. I try to move the tensioner with an allen wrench but it isn't adjusting. What am I missing here?
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  #34  
Old 07-24-2009, 12:09 AM
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Ok final update. Installed my alternator that was rebuilt by a local shop ($220). Started her up, battery light off, 4x4 light on. Drove to gas station to fill up gas. Started the car back up and 4x4 light was off. No more warning lights, all looks great.

Checked voltage when I got home.

13.8 at idle

12.8 car off

Yaaay!!

Here is a final pic. Notice Serpentine routing a little different. Lots of tension on the tensioner, had to use a breaker bar.
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  #35  
Old 07-24-2009, 11:25 AM
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MPDano,

Good info, thanks for the input. Mine is a 2003, hard to tell from the pics but everything looks identical except for your upper tensioner (I don't see the tensioner lug) Mine was spring-loaded and I still used a breaker bar, was yours hydraulic?

The belt routing is the same for all M54 motors...
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  #36  
Old 07-24-2009, 11:31 AM
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I think the angle of the original posted pics is what threw me off. Not sure if the tensioner is hydraulic or spring, I just know that a normal ratchet wrench felt like it was locked up. Used a breaker bar for more leverage and walla. Drove the car to work today and it purrs like a kitten. I should probably tell the wife I need to test it next week too
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  #37  
Old 07-24-2009, 03:23 PM
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PUT INTO HOW-TO ARTICLES!!!!!!!!!!!
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  #38  
Old 08-11-2009, 03:48 PM
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Thanks for the post- it helped me even though I wasn't replacing the alternator (not sure what happened to the pictures from the water pump series!).

One thing to note: My '01 X5 3.0i with MANUAL transmission has a hydraulic tensioner for the drive belt, and the bolt on the PULLEY is turned clockwise to relieve tension. I think the fact that mine is a manual may have something to do with the clockwise rotation because other folks have indicated CC. With the hydraulic tensioner, look at which way the thing has to move to compress the piston, and apply torque to make it happen. No impacts, by the way, just leverage. <-- From the BMW tech.

Thanks Again.
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  #39  
Old 08-11-2009, 05:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thumbs View Post
One thing to note: My '01 X5 3.0i with MANUAL transmission has a hydraulic tensioner for the drive belt, and the bolt on the PULLEY is turned clockwise to relieve tension. I think the fact that mine is a manual may have something to do with the clockwise rotation because other folks have indicated CC.
Thanks Again.
Glad it helped! This should help others out since it's hard to see from above, here is a better picture ( top and front view) of the upper tensioner. The whole area encircled in red is the upper tensioner and turning the lug clockwise will spin the whole unit to the lower left which releases tension on the serpentine belt

Top view:



Front view:


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  #40  
Old 08-11-2009, 05:08 PM
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Yep- that is what is different on mine. Yours has the mechanical tensioner while mine is hydraulic. Here is the realoem link: RealOEM.com BMW E53 X5 3.0i Belt Drive Water Pump/Alternator

In the image it is part #21 and you torque the allen head bolt #7 clockwise to compress the cylinder:
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