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#1
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#2
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Yep- that is what is different on mine. Yours has the mechanical tensioner while mine is hydraulic. Here is the realoem link: RealOEM.com BMW E53 X5 3.0i Belt Drive Water Pump/Alternator
In the image it is part #21 and you torque the allen head bolt #7 clockwise to compress the cylinder: ![]() |
#3
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#4
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I don't recall exactly what I used, but it was something standard that I already had in my tool box.
I did find the torque specs in the Bentley manual for the fan clutch: w/ BMW tool 11 5 040 30Nm w/o BMW tool 40Nm None of the pictures I took are really worth a darn. Sorry I can't help any more than that. |
#5
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Less than 2 months and my Alternator is no longer putting out. What a pain. Now I have to remove it again and take it back to the local shop that rebuilt it. I just can't get motivated to do this.
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#6
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My battery light came on again over the weekend. I have a 2-year old battery and a fairly new alternator. I posted a new thread HERE asking for some input from the experts. |
#7
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Ok all, pulled and dropped off my Alternator at the shop that rebuilt it. I told him that I tested it with a volt meter the day I installed it and it showed around 13.5 volts. I then told him all my other cars show an average of 14.5 volts. He said this is true, but the BMW has the battery in the rear of the car and this is why it is 13.5 volts.
Is this true? Can someone please take a volt meter to their battery post while running and take a reading? Last edited by MPDano; 09-21-2009 at 07:47 PM. |
#8
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MPDano, your mechanic is incompetent. Voltage its the same while running whether you take a reading off the terminal posts in front or directly on the battery.
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#9
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I am still hoping someone can verify that pulling a 13.7 volt average from a running X5 "IS" Normal. Please. |
#10
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This post also helped with R&R the belts. Good info.
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