P0171, P0174 resolved

[mysweetx5]

Originally Posted by flatlander

I've replaced the oil sep hoses too. I was still getting P0171 and P0174 codes that would not stay reset. I cleaned the MAF, but that did not change the outcome.

Then I ordered a new MAF online. The new MAF worked fine, giving a smooth idle. When I checked the active codes, the P0171 and P0174 were inactive. I cleared them to reset the CEL and it's been all clear for 4 days.

Try cleaning the MAF and if that doesn't work, you could try to swap MAF's with someone who has the same engine to troubleshoot, or just bite the bullet and order a new one.

My(01 X5 4.4i) has the same codes, also with:P1158/P1160). Due to what I've been advised by some folks in the forum, I than finally decided to visit a shop for a smoke test done in the intake system. Well... amazingly it was a vacuum leak right under the front intake manifold gaskets, which lead me to a major mechanic job I've ever done in my entire life. See pictures below for details....

[mysweetx5]

I've been searching the entire web for pictures about how to perform this heavies jobs on my: (2001 BMW X5 4.4i M62) but unfortunately no body seems taking their chance to do this type jobs. Amazingly! I came across of: E38 BMW 740i/iL M62 Intake Manifold Removal

which is a link showing you how to do the same job, but on a different BMW models. However I have to say thanx to the guy who has posted these pictures on the web because by following them I was able to succeed and also saving me:$ 3,265 dollars jobs in labor. Please don't get me wrong! the entire job cost me:$405 dollars, only because my car was due for tune-up service and this is a perfect time for me to do everything at once. But some parts are not pictured.
Because the procedure of the intake manifold removal, replacing all the gaskets: rear, front, under the intake took me about: 8hrs job.

See pictures below for details....

[mysweetx5]

I've been searching the entire web for pictures about how to perform this heavies jobs on my: (2001 BMW X5 4.4i M62) but unfortunately no body seems taking their chance to do this type jobs. Amazingly! I came across of: E38 BMW 740i/iL M62 Intake Manifold Removal

which is a link showing you how to do the same job, but on a different BMW models. However I have to say thanx to the guy who has posted these pictures on the web because by following them I was able to succeed and also saving me:$ 3,265 dollars jobs in labor. Please don't get me wrong! the entire job cost me:$405 dollars, only because my car was due for tune-up service and this is a perfect time for me to do everything at once. But some parts are not pictured.
Because the procedure of the intake manifold removal, replacing all the gaskets: rear, front, under the intake took me about: 8hrs job.

See pictures below for details....

[mysweetx5]

Pull out all eight of ignition coil connections. You will need to pull the metal clip upward and as you pull it upward, take out the connector from
the ignition coil. It is tricky, but not too bad. We need to unclip all the connectors so we can move these electronic boxes out of the way. There is
a box on each side of the engine. Pull out (most of the plug sensors) and the knock sensor(3) connector. Loosen (4) 10mm nuts and you got yourself a loose box! Be
careful pulling them out yet. You will need to take out the connectors that hook to the injectors. Take a look at the bottom of the box, you will see
4 injectors hooked up on each side. Uncliping is a pain in the (S) specially the two last injectors by the firewall inside, but with a little plier, you can open the thin metal clips and once you unclip the metal, injectors may pull out free easily from the electronic box wires.

I was by myself guys! and this was inside the parking lot of autozone 3 miles from my house. imagine trying to finish on time so, my car won't stay there overnight and taking pictures at the same time.

[mysweetx5]

In order to remove the intake manifold, we will need to remove the plastic engine/cylinder cover, (unhook the injector's clips are the most part on this job, otherwise remove the throttle body and the top fuel rail together with the injectors are easy. You may used 2 markers with different colors just to identify certain plugs. Certain BMW's model are much different than other because I found the job more easy on my car than E38 model explained.

(REMEMBER THIS WAS ON A: 2001 BMW X5 4.4i M62)

I hope this helps for some of you... Because The $tealers will charge you $$$Thousandsss of dollars to get to this point, now you can do it for free. At this point, you can clean out the intake manifold, intake valves, the fuel injectors, replace the back plate of intake manifold just like I did! Good luck! And for those who need to replace the valley pan gasket, you will need to remove the water pump and take out the center "cap and seal" part... However I do not mess with it and mine looks ok, once I do not have any leaking antifreeze under the vehicle.

Be careful on the gas pedal when testing the car later, because as the engine notice there is no more vacuum leak, the compression now build-up inside the entire intake system pushing his way back normally through the muffler now, which resulting the car to take-off like a jumbo airplane.

[MPDano]

I am going to remove my DISA from our 04 X5 3.0 and verify the part number. I see 11617544805 as the Part Number, but i want to physically verify this.

Also, would putting vacuum to the DISA, a good test of it's operational?

[mysweetx5]

Not so sure about your question whether if you willing to change your disa valve but this is the part that you're looking to work on picture below...
And No need to to the stealer to get the part. just go to: Bimmerspecialist.com and get the same genuine quality for less...And get yourself some drink with the rest of the money after you done.


Description:
Adjusting Unit for Intake Manifold (DISA Valve)
Manufacturer: GENUINE BMW
List Price: $224.42
Part#: 11 61 7 544 805 Your Price: [email protected]

[MPDano]

Thanks for the reply. If you look at the 1st Post on this topic, the part number is a little off, which is why i wanted to verify it before spending $200. Looks like you verified my part number for me. Also, thanks for the Vendor referral.

[MPDano]

I ended up taking mine out and inspecting it. I saw nothing broken, flap seems to function fine and didn't fall out even when I took out the metal pivot pin. Not sure if the flap just moves around or there is some tension?

So I just cleaned up all the gunk on it and snapped some photos for your visual inspection. I put the DISA back in. There are "3" Torx screws and not 2. I believe it's a T40 and I thought the picture would show the number on there but it didn't. I cleared all the codes and did a road test to include a short freeway drive. Nothing so far. I will let my wife know to tell me if the Service Engine Light comes back. Keeping my fingers crossed.

[Nik]

Do 4.4is have that also? or is PCV same as that?