Handbrake adjustment at rear wheels

[TiAgX5]

Bentley procedure.....

[Ricky Bobby]

Thanks so much!

I just checked mine last night and its def at 8 clicks so will work on it over the weekend

[Doru]

If you observe the TIS, turning the star adjusting wheel can be a SOB, especially if one didn't touch (read remove the disk) in a long while. Visual is very limited, and the star wheel can be hard to turn. Been there, done that.

[TiAgX5]

I actually modified a 5/16" flat blade long screwdriver, heated/bent a 20deg dogleg (perpendicular to blade) around 1" from blade tip.

With the bend TOWARD the direction of starwheel rotation, slip off is eliminated.

For anyone doing this for the first time and/or had it done prior at a repair shop, I would recommend the cable back-off step be done first (just to be sure nobody gave your vehicle that "Midas Touch" )

[jdstrickland]

Originally Posted by Ricky Bobby

I was planning on maybe doing it over the weekend, now that I think about it though I have to get some wheel chocks since I need the car in N and parking brake down when adjusting.

You don't need chocks, a block of wood under each front tire should be sufficient. All you really need is to lift the car on flat ground and put a jack stand under each side, then put the trans into N. If you're working on a hill, then you need to establish a means to keep the car in place, but it will not fall off of jack stands in your garage.

You are not taking the tires off, you are only taking out a lug bolt on each side. If you need to service the brakes -- replace the shoes, for example -- then you need to take the tires off. But if the shoes are in good shape and the only problem is that the handle moves to the top of its travel and the brakes do not hold, then an adjustment is needed.

Parking brakes should last the life of the car since all they are intended to do is hold a stationary load stationary.

[jdstrickland]

Originally Posted by Ricky Bobby

Thanks so much!

I just checked mine last night and its def at 8 clicks so will work on it over the weekend

4 clicks is the adjustment spec. If the car holds on 8 clicks then leave well enough alone. You only need to adjust when the parking brake does not hold the car when the brake is set and the handle cannot be pulled up any more.

The goal of 4 clicks is to be sure the brake shoes release while still giving ample ability to continue working over time. You want the brakes to fully release, and if it takes at least 4 clicks of the ratchet to set the brake well enough to hold the car, then the brake will be released when the handle is put down. If you yank the handle to the top and the car still rolls, then you adjust according to the procedure. And, the parking brake only has to hold the car with engine off, it might not hold the car in D or R with the engine running.

[TiAgX5]

Actually, it's recommended that the parking brake be applied at 10 to 15 mph for around 5 seconds, this removes dirt/dust/rust from the contact surface.

Even at 200k miles/12 yrs I have the OE pads in there (and yes, even with an automatic trans, I set the brake on even slight inclines. Must be habit from over 30yrs of driving 3 pedal vehicles).


"And, the parking brake only has to hold the car with engine off, it might not hold the car in D or R with the engine running."
The above will fail state vehicle inspection here in TX, even auto trans vehicles.

[Clockwork]

TiAgX5, like you and Doru, I use my handbrake, but every time!
Its smarter/better for the useage of an automatic transmission as well. I've read reports proving this as well, but in honesty there is the real world test (and you can try yourself). try it on a hill using my method then not using the parking brake.

How I park my Automatic vehicles (as was described to me):
When parking, bring vehicle to a full stop using foot pedal brake.
While foot pedal still being pressed, Put vehicle in Neutral and pull up on hand brake.
let go of foot pedal and vehicle MAY shift (depending on angle being parked or strength of parking brake system).
Once car has stop shifting/moving (if at all) then put vehicle in park.

when putting into gear from Park:
Press foot pedal and remove gear from Park into any other gear and keep foot on brake pedal.
With brake pedal still pressed, now lower the hand brake.
Drive away with a smile on your face.

This method of parking (ESPECIALLY on an incline) then puts NO STRESS on the transmission's Parking Pawl. This stress I speak of is when you are parking on a hill (or even slight incline) and you put vehicle in park then let off foot pedal and vehicle moves a bit to a rest position. Then when you go to put vehicle in any gear from Park, and you have a "notch " feel or a clunk sound when you shift OUT of park, well this is because all the weight of the vehicle is resting on this part inside the transmission. So be friendly to it and use the handbrake.

Parking pawl - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
read the section under recommendations.

[TiAgX5]

Same here, load the vehicle weight on the parking brake (trans in N, footbrake released), then into P.

[jdstrickland]

Originally Posted by TiAgX5

"And, the parking brake only has to hold the car with engine off, it might not hold the car in D or R with the engine running."
The above will fail state vehicle inspection here in TX, even auto trans vehicles.

I know nothing about Texas, but the purpose of a parking brake is to hold the car in place while parked, so any test that has you leave the engine running and in gear exceeds the stated design of the parking brake. Surely the brake may hold the car but it should not be surprising if it does not, especially if the car is on a hill and the gear selected moves the vehicle down the hill.

Nobody would reasonably set the brake and leave the car in gear with the engine running, why would the presiding authority demand such a thing? It's nonsensical to have that standard.