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  #21  
Old 11-16-2013, 01:53 PM
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perfect details

Thanks twinpoppa for the run down it was perfect. I did exactly what u wrote but ran into a little problem due to the fact that my sav was in an accident before I bought it and was told that it never was they put screws into the quarter panel brackets instead of just buying new ones kmft
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  #22  
Old 03-15-2014, 05:22 PM
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Well, after reading this I believe i'll have the indy spend the hour and replace the
current Xenon's. I have the same ones that came with the X when bought it in 2005
and they appear less white since then. Perhaps 8 1/2 years is long enough.
May as well change the turn signals as well. Thinking of going with the 6000's.
Any thoughts regarding the temp of the OEM lamps and the 6000's
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  #23  
Old 03-15-2014, 08:27 PM
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Quicksilver why not just get new Philips bulbs? Much brighter than 6000k and better output and beam alignment using a genuine bulb
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  #24  
Old 03-16-2014, 10:52 AM
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Which one are you suggesting? (Temperture, and part number)
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  #25  
Old 03-16-2014, 01:28 PM
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Genuine Philips 85122 (D2S):

I posted in TiagX5's thread about these as well, the guy who runs this shop has a father with aviation contracts with Philips, so he buys pallets of Genuine bulbs from them direct at wholesale pricing.

Philips D2S (85122) - HIDbulbsRus


For 74 shipped, they are going to be the best OE bulbs you can buy, you WILL notice a difference after almost 9 years in the brightness of new xenon bulbs. Your other options are GE 53500 bulbs, or Osram 66240 bulbs, but those are actually a couple bucks more than Philips, and rated at same 4300k color temp and 3200 lumens.
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  #26  
Old 03-17-2014, 12:56 PM
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Are these the same ones you said in post 20 lasted 3 years?


Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricky Bobby View Post
Genuine Philips 85122 (D2S):

I posted in TiagX5's thread about these as well, the guy who runs this shop has a father with aviation contracts with Philips, so he buys pallets of Genuine bulbs from them direct at wholesale pricing.

Philips D2S (85122) - HIDbulbsRus


For 74 shipped, they are going to be the best OE bulbs you can buy, you WILL notice a difference after almost 9 years in the brightness of new xenon bulbs. Your other options are GE 53500 bulbs, or Osram 66240 bulbs, but those are actually a couple bucks more than Philips, and rated at same 4300k color temp and 3200 lumens.
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  #27  
Old 03-17-2014, 01:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Quicksilver View Post
Are these the same ones you said in post 20 lasted 3 years?
Quick that was me that said that - not Ricky.
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  #28  
Old 03-17-2014, 07:30 PM
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Oops you're right my bad.
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  #29  
Old 03-22-2014, 11:26 AM
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I just did this so have a couple of comments.

First, some of the bolt size references were different on my car, but all are either of the two sizes referenced.

Second, and more important, you don't have to move any accessories to remove the headlights if you (a) remove the bumper, and (b) remove the two screws under the headlights along with the two at the top front. There is a slide-in plastic bracket that bolts in at the front under the headlamp, it has the two rear bolts that are mentioned in the OP but those won't need to be removed if you take out the front ones. If you do remove the back bolts and leave that bracket installed, when you slide the headlamp assy back in you'll need to be sure the slots on the headlamp assy mate properly with the tabs on that bracket.

There is a reason I know about this bracket - I had to replace mine after breaking off one of the rear tabs when trying to replace bulbs/exciters without taking off the bumper. See, I got to do it both ways!

FWIW I just used a large cardboard box to rest the bumper on while doing the headlamp work - it only needs to drop about an inch and move forward to do all the work. And as others have already commented, the bumper removal is easy.

Now I have to source the bolt that was stripped (fender well) and the screw for the fog light that was missing - not the first time this bumper has been off!

2005 4.8is
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  #30  
Old 03-22-2014, 11:26 AM
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I just did this so have a couple of comments.

First, some of the bolt size references were different on my car, but all are either of the two sizes referenced.

Second, and more important, you don't have to move any accessories to remove the headlights if you (a) remove the bumper, and (b) remove the two screws under the headlights along with the two at the top front. There is a slide-in plastic bracket that bolts in at the front under the headlamp, it has the two rear bolts that are mentioned in the OP but those won't need to be removed if you take out the front ones. If you do remove the back bolts and leave that bracket installed, when you slide the headlamp assy back in you'll need to be sure the slots on the headlamp assy mate properly with the tabs on that bracket.

There is a reason I know about this bracket - I had to replace mine after breaking off one of the rear tabs when trying to replace bulbs/exciters without taking off the bumper. See, I got to do it both ways!

FWIW I just used a large cardboard box to rest the bumper on while doing the headlamp work - it only needs to drop about an inch and move forward to do all the work. And as others have already commented, the bumper removal is easy.

Now I have to source the bolt that was stripped (fender well) and the screw for the fog light that was missing - not the first time this bumper has been off!

2005 4.8is
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