stupid shock questions

[shooter]

I already did everything X5Girl did except those rear subframe mounts. I have never heard of them until I read the write up last month. I gonna change them up. Hopefully they will help the sloppy handling.

So I'm going to order these:
rear submount bushings
4 OEM shocks

Do I need to get anything else since I'm doing this? Mounts, bearings, etc..... This is going to cost a lot of $$$ so I would like to do it right.

I also noticed a nasty sounding deep screech from the front left when going over a big speed bump.
My assumption is that its my "X" that I once again need repair. I love working on my truck but it has gotten to the point that I can't even enjoy it because I'm either working on it or it just drives like straight up garbage.

[alpac]

Originally Posted by shooter

Really embarrassing question:
What is the difference between a shock and a strut?

Not a stupid question actually. Where I came from we call both 'amortisseurs' (shock absorbers) although there are differents.
Let me try to help if I can.
Both serve the same purpose, they both cushion/damp the vibrations of a car’s suspension but the Struts are also an integral part of the suspension. As such a strut not only limits vibration but also hold the suspension together and supports the weight of the vehicle while the shock absorber is just a add on component which only purpose is to dampen/cushion the spring vibrations/bouncing. Without the shock the suspension still works. Without the strut the wheel carrier is not attached to the vehicle body anymore. Therefore a strut is more than only a shock absorber component of a suspension. Struts are used in a McPherson suspension system set up which most modern cars use today for their front axle. Therefore, struts are usually part of the front axle suspension while shocks are usually in the rear.
Hope that helps

[cslee]

shooter,
Please update on your progress, my X5 also has sloppy handling and bouncy. I feels awful during turns if there's a dip on the road.

[shooter]

Update:
So I went to that place zsX5o3 said to go and didn't really get anything accomplished. However, they did say my shocks were perfect and that I need an alignment, but the funny thing is that I just got one 2 or 3 weeks ago at BMW of Watertown. They saved me 1k by confirming my shocks were still good.

Earlier, I picked my truck up (4th time) from BMW to get this steering and suspension problem checked out again. They were unable to duplicate my concerns. As soon as I pulled off the lot, I let go of the wheel and there we go off to the right side of the road (not road crown). I cannot understand how this cannot be duplicated.

I will bullet the rest of my updates to make this easier to read:
1.) Brought truck to NEO Auto
2.) Went there driving rough; left there driving rough with self level light on. He cleared the code but it popped back on before I left the driveway. (Not their fault)
3.) Drove around for a few days depressed and upset about how the X was driving.
4.) Self level light still on!
5.) Brought to Watertown to get reexamined --- (Rough ride, sloppy handling, wandering, shimmy when braking, pulls to right, steering wheel slightly loose and does not feel as tight/heavy turning right as when turning left)
6.) BMW cleared faults (No susp. light on anymore!!). Bumpy ride and handling significantly improved.
7.) Asked what triggered code and was told ride height sensors were bad. I assume they say this bc of the lowering links/rods from the H&R kit being installed.
8.) Unable to duplicate steering issues. I am very irritated because all I want is for the f****** thing to drive straight!
9.) It has been 5 hours since I picked it up and I have started it 5 times tonight. So far so good. Self level inactive light still remains off!

Anyone able to help with these questions:
Can the ride height sensors be bad or not working if the self level light is off? In other words, is the stealer just saying they are broken? How do know for sure they shot?
--I ask bc my ride was crappy before the light came on and did not worsen or change when it did.

Would a shot tie rod ball joint be the cause of all the steering problems?
--I have to admit that I wasn't looking when replacing my control arms and accidentally pickle forked the ball joint of the tie rod. Yeah... the rotor was blocking my view and I was on hour 3 of the right side.

Thanks everyone for your input and suggestions. It is very appreciated.

[dpgx5]

Did you try to re-balance? I had a shake and got my wheels rebalance. Cause... It was out 10-30 grams! Smooth as silk. Keep us posted!

[Werewolf]

Originally Posted by alpac

Not a stupid question actually. Where I came from we call both 'amortisseurs' (shock absorbers) although there are differents.
Let me try to help if I can.
Both serve the same purpose, they both cushion/damp the vibrations of a car’s suspension but the Struts are also an integral part of the suspension. As such a strut not only limits vibration but also hold the suspension together and supports the weight of the vehicle while the shock absorber is just a add on component which only purpose is to dampen/cushion the spring vibrations/bouncing. Without the shock the suspension still works. Without the strut the wheel carrier is not attached to the vehicle body anymore. Therefore a strut is more than only a shock absorber component of a suspension. Struts are used in a McPherson suspension system set up which most modern cars use today for their front axle. Therefore, struts are usually part of the front axle suspension while shocks are usually in the rear.
Hope that helps

Also changing struts is a lot harder and more expensive than changing shocks.

[shooter]

yeah the wheels were rebalanced by the dealer. I went back for another alignment (free of course) tech confirmed it still pulled right.
They said the front right caster was off due to after market modifications to the suspension. Meaning that the stock alignment specs would make it off. Dealer said the tech manually adjusted the caster. Well, wouldn't you know it that it still pulls right.
Dealer also pulled out H&R ride height sensor rods. They installed the stock ones and lowered it through their computer. Its about 30.5" from ground to wheel well.

So I did some aggressive cornering and it feels like the front right isn't as firm as the left. By this I mean taking right hand corners feels more sloppy than when taking a left. Its almost like when I turn right the front right compresses more.

This is getting rediculous! Anyone got anything else for me?

[BennyX]

I have a 4.6 and I need rear shocks. Could someone post a link to an aftermarket parts place that carries these? Thanks.

[Hit Redline]

Originally Posted by BennyX

I have a 4.6 and I need rear shocks. Could someone post a link to an aftermarket parts place that carries these? Thanks.

This is a dealer item only. I have looked all over myself for aftermarket rear shocks. They are in the ballpark of $300 each.