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#1
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OK disregard there is a threaded hole for the temp sensor on the new pump too in the same spot :-) Well it's all thoroughly cleaned now time to button her up. Got the new WP fitted, gasket dropped right into place. I lubed up the o-rings and the coolant pipes with some BMW antifreeze - still wasn't that easy to slip it in so I would DEFINITELY recommend this step.
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Indy Shops: Berkeley: German Auto Sport Phoenix: Babbitt Motor Werks | Arizona Bimmer Motor Works Reno: Reno Rennsport Rides: 00 BMW X5 4.4 93 Nissan 300ZXTT 88 Nissan 300ZXT Shiro #853 88 Nissan 300ZXT Shiro #773 84 Nissan 300ZXT 50th AE 78 Datsun 280Z Black Pearl 15 Yamaha WR250R 06 Yamaha R1 AE Email: WE350Z at gmail |
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#2
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seeing that you are fresh on this topic, I need to replace my thermostat very soon. My 04 3.0 is not producing any heat and the temp gauge reaches 1/4 at best. Couple of questions regarding this...
1) Do you think I should change my water pump while I am in there? I have 71k on the X 2) Should I completely drain the coolant from the rad and the engine block? 3) Any other hints while I try to change the thermostat? I have the gasket and thermostat already. Thanks |
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#3
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1) Yes - they are inexpensive, and yours will probably fail at some point might as well do it while you are in there. And if you have higher mileage.
2) Yes - especially if >4 years since last flush. It's relatively easy to do too. 3) N/A - I have 4.4i, I know 3.0 has a less beefy t-stat & water pump and I have heard it's a easier job. Quote:
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Indy Shops: Berkeley: German Auto Sport Phoenix: Babbitt Motor Werks | Arizona Bimmer Motor Works Reno: Reno Rennsport Rides: 00 BMW X5 4.4 93 Nissan 300ZXTT 88 Nissan 300ZXT Shiro #853 88 Nissan 300ZXT Shiro #773 84 Nissan 300ZXT 50th AE 78 Datsun 280Z Black Pearl 15 Yamaha WR250R 06 Yamaha R1 AE Email: WE350Z at gmail |
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#4
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Yes! Change the water pump. Inspect your pulleys and your belts
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#5
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If belts are 4-5 years old or have a lot of mileage I would just change them. Otherwise definitely inspect them for cracking. For $40 you can have peace of mind.
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Indy Shops: Berkeley: German Auto Sport Phoenix: Babbitt Motor Werks | Arizona Bimmer Motor Works Reno: Reno Rennsport Rides: 00 BMW X5 4.4 93 Nissan 300ZXTT 88 Nissan 300ZXT Shiro #853 88 Nissan 300ZXT Shiro #773 84 Nissan 300ZXT 50th AE 78 Datsun 280Z Black Pearl 15 Yamaha WR250R 06 Yamaha R1 AE Email: WE350Z at gmail |
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#6
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OK - so everything is put back together now and naturally the battery is dead from opening and closing the door after not driving the car for almost a month.
Question about the filling process. What Magnum's article suggests and TIS suggest seem to differ. Magnum:
1. Turn on ignition. 2. Set heating controller to maximum temperature. 3. Set fan to low setting. This opens the heating valves and starts the auxiliary water pump. 4. Perform filling operation slowly. 5. Pour coolant into coolant expansion tank up to max. cold fill level. 6. Close vent plug when bubble-free coolant emerges 7. Close coolant expansion tank.
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Indy Shops: Berkeley: German Auto Sport Phoenix: Babbitt Motor Werks | Arizona Bimmer Motor Works Reno: Reno Rennsport Rides: 00 BMW X5 4.4 93 Nissan 300ZXTT 88 Nissan 300ZXT Shiro #853 88 Nissan 300ZXT Shiro #773 84 Nissan 300ZXT 50th AE 78 Datsun 280Z Black Pearl 15 Yamaha WR250R 06 Yamaha R1 AE Email: WE350Z at gmail |
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#7
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Magnum's is wrong about the fan speed settings, so maybe that was a typo on his part. As the TIS says, the fan speed needs to be set on low so the heater valves will open and aux pump (little internal waterpump in the heater valve) will be running. I don't know if the revving will be needed, but I guess it couldn't hurt either. Just be careful since this is a hot and messy job, but there doesn't really seem to be a better way w/o making a mess.
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650hp 10 X5///M - Stage 2, Vibrant 1794's , gutted cats, custom intake, AC Forged 22's 325hp 98 BMW 740iL - ///M5 6spd, www.bavengine.com w/ Performance Option, electric fan, CF intake tube w/ heatshield, Mag 14816 w/ notched bumper, Bilstein/H&R Stage II/Powerflex 600+hp 02 Harley F150 - MHP900 Stage 3 engine, KB2.3, 8# lower, 60# inj, Walbro FP's 135hp 01 TL1000R - M4 full exhaust, K&N, Yosh box, -1/+2 gears, 2CT's
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#8
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cool man thanks for the advice!
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Indy Shops: Berkeley: German Auto Sport Phoenix: Babbitt Motor Werks | Arizona Bimmer Motor Works Reno: Reno Rennsport Rides: 00 BMW X5 4.4 93 Nissan 300ZXTT 88 Nissan 300ZXT Shiro #853 88 Nissan 300ZXT Shiro #773 84 Nissan 300ZXT 50th AE 78 Datsun 280Z Black Pearl 15 Yamaha WR250R 06 Yamaha R1 AE Email: WE350Z at gmail |
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#9
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NP brotha. Just make sure to have some coolant and distalled water ready and keep some in the X for the next few days just in case any burps don't escape from bleeding...unfortunately it still happens.
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650hp 10 X5///M - Stage 2, Vibrant 1794's , gutted cats, custom intake, AC Forged 22's 325hp 98 BMW 740iL - ///M5 6spd, www.bavengine.com w/ Performance Option, electric fan, CF intake tube w/ heatshield, Mag 14816 w/ notched bumper, Bilstein/H&R Stage II/Powerflex 600+hp 02 Harley F150 - MHP900 Stage 3 engine, KB2.3, 8# lower, 60# inj, Walbro FP's 135hp 01 TL1000R - M4 full exhaust, K&N, Yosh box, -1/+2 gears, 2CT's
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#10
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Sounds like either way will work. Just topp it off with the bleeder screw open, then dothe heater thing to get the valves open and aux waterpump running, then topp off again, etc. Just take James suggestion and bring a gallon of mix with you in case it gets a hiccup and has to burp. (but if that happens let it cool off a bit before opening cap or it will spray everywhere)
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"When you do things right, people won't be sure you've done anything at all" (Bender, futurama) You make something idiotproof, they'll make a better idiot You think professional is expensive, just wait until you pay for amateur. Never let your sense of morals prevent you from doing what is right. Examine what is said, not who speaks. X5 pics RIP 4.6is..... 2003 4.6is
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