coolant leak

[we350z]

Ok yeah that's what I thought. Just to reiterate is sounds like the pipes just kind of lay in there. So if one or both of them stick to the WP (perhaps due to the o-ring) as you are pulling it off then you could pull it out of the rear which means pulling the heads off to stick it back in on the rear.

The DIY article for the 4.4i I found is missing pics. I found some pics here on the block drain plug here, and a writeup for the 3.0 procedure here. I will just look up the procedure for the 4.4 on TIS.

According to the service records it looks like the last coolant flush was performed 09/09/05 when the Expansion Tank/Coolant Reservoir was replaced. So according to the Fluid Maintenance Guide it is a little bit overdue. Both drive belts were replaced 10/07/05, so I would think they should be good but of course I will inspect them more closely once they are off the car.

As for parts - looks like I will need:

• Thermostat (11 53 1 436 386)
• Thermostat Gasket/Seal (11 51 1 705 408)
• Water Pump (11 51 1 713 266)
• Water Pump Gasket (11 51 1 731 462)
• Water Pipe to Water Pump O-Ring (11 53 1 710 048)
• 2 Gallons Zerex G05 Antifreeze
• 2 Gallons Distilled Water

Please confirm this.

Originally Posted by Weasel

The block drain plug is on the passengers side of the block behind the ac compressor. And the coolant pipes actually slip into the water pump, which is the point they need to slip out of. If the rear of the pipes lets go and they come out with the pump it will mean more work.

I'm sure there are writeups all over this site, just search it and see if you can find pictures.

[we350z]

Do I need this special tool in the attached picture to remove the fan clutch or just the 32mm wrench? I imagine the last picture is only necessary if you actually want to replace the fan blade?

Originally Posted by Weasel

You would need the 32mm wrench to take off the fan clutch, and it's either a t45 or t50 torx to remove the crank pulley... there are 8 bolts in a ring that hold the pulley on, and one alignment pin to make extra sure you line up when putting it back on.

[Weasel]

32mm wrench ,and anything to hold the pulley while you break the fan clutch free. (what the bar with 2 holes is doing over the waterpump pulley bolts) *note* the fan clutch is reverse thread so you have to "tighten" it to take it off.

As for the parts, sounds good except there are 2 o-rings you need, different sizes for different pipes. (as shown in the ebay link)

[m5james]

Look on e38.org BMW 7-series information and links for more tips on this job. We share the same motor, and pay particular attention to the bleeding as it can be a real headache if you don't do it right. No one replied yet, but you HAVE to use BMW coolant or Zerex G05 because it is phosphate free. I'm due for my cooling system overhaul soon, all new pieces (better safe than sorry), pre-VANOS intake manifold swap, intake gaskets, etc...it'll be like a whole new engine

[we350z]

Cool - what can one use in place of the special tool to hold the pulley? Good call on the reverse thread for the fan clutch I would not have known that and the TIS doesn't say anything about it. I listed the two gaskets here though I am going to buy the pump off ebay anyway:

• Water Pump Gasket (11 51 1 731 462)
• Water Pipe to Water Pump O-Ring (11 53 1 710 048)

Is the stock Pump manufactured by Graf or Meyle? The one on eBay is Meyle.

Originally Posted by Weasel

32mm wrench ,and anything to hold the pulley while you break the fan clutch free. (what the bar with 2 holes is doing over the waterpump pulley bolts) *note* the fan clutch is reverse thread so you have to "tighten" it to take it off.

As for the parts, sounds good except there are 2 o-rings you need, different sizes for different pipes. (as shown in the ebay link)

[we350z]

Yeah that's true I will check it out. Why is the bleeding a bitch? The TIS says to do the following:

Draining coolant: Separate coolant expansion tank (M62): Open cap on coolant expansion tank

Release screws. Remove underbody paneling (1).

M62: Open drain plug at bottom of radiator. Drain, catch and dispose of coolant.
Installation: Replace seal. Tightening torque, 17 11 2AZ.

Open drain plug on right of engine block. Drain, catch and dispose of coolant.
Installation: Replace seal. Tightening torque, 11 11 5AZ.

Adding coolant:

Note: The tank mark indicates the fluid level at approx. 20  C. Use only recommended coolant, refer to BMW Service Operating Fluids MG17.

1. Turn on ignition.
2. Set heating controller to maximum temperature
3. Set fan to low setting. This opens the heating valves and starts the auxiliary water pump.
4. Perform filling operation slowly.
5. Pour coolant into coolant expansion tank up to max. cold fill level.
6. Close vent plug when bubble-free coolant emerges
7. Close coolant expansion tank. Vent cooling system and check for leaks.

I knew about the phosphate free antifreeze :-)

Originally Posted by m5james

Look on e38.org BMW 7-series information and links for more tips on this job. We share the same motor, and pay particular attention to the bleeding as it can be a real headache if you don't do it right. No one replied yet, but you HAVE to use BMW coolant or Zerex G05 because it is phosphate free. I'm due for my cooling system overhaul soon, all new pieces (better safe than sorry), pre-VANOS intake manifold swap, intake gaskets, etc...it'll be like a whole new engine

[m5james]

Its not necessarily a bitch, its just messy. Its important that its done right so all the air comes out. I've bled cars and still had a fluctuating needle a couple of times from it still burping...im just paranoid about the cooling systems on the V8.

[Weasel]

I usually use a long flat blade screwdriver between the head of a pulley bolt and the fan nut... But you gotta be carefull in the positioning of the screwdriver, and there is a possibility of the screw bending and breaking the pulley if the fan is too tight.

[we350z]

Hmmm... Maybe I'll just fabricate one of these special tools with a piece of metal and my drill/dremel if I can't get the screwdriver trick to work. I'll have to go play with it to see what you are talking about. Where does one get these special bmw tools anyway?

Originally Posted by Weasel

I usually use a long flat blade screwdriver between the head of a pulley bolt and the fan nut... But you gotta be carefull in the positioning of the screwdriver, and there is a possibility of the screw bending and breaking the pulley if the fan is too tight.

[Weasel]

If you get the part# from it you can order it through the dealership's parts department. And all BMW special tools have lifetime warranty too. They're just expensive sometimes...