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  #101  
Old 12-22-2010, 12:18 AM
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That's what I was thinking. The light has yet to go off, which worries me a bit.

Is there a way to turn that light off?
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  #102  
Old 12-22-2010, 09:43 AM
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After 4-5 days, you should think about going at the dealer and ask them what code is in there. Also, request for an oil change which will help removing the humidity you may have in the crankcase.

There's two ways you can reset the light: 1) the dealer, 2) buying a device that does it
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  #103  
Old 12-28-2010, 03:38 PM
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So you are saying that the humidity in the crankcase might have caused the mis-firing? This issue didnt develop until after the dealer did an oil change on the vehicle....i just got an oil change done.

Thanks
Ryan
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  #104  
Old 01-30-2011, 11:57 PM
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Do you think if I install an oil pan heater pad this would take care of the issue?

My 328is has been sitting for 2 weeks outside in 5-15 degree (F) weather and starts on a dime with no issues. Damn 4.4i POS engine.
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  #105  
Old 01-31-2011, 01:15 AM
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Its not the cold oil that is the issue. Its the cold AIR.
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  #106  
Old 04-07-2011, 04:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikem0re View Post
I was having the exact same symtoms with my 4.4 2006, and I had the levels replaced but didn't fix my issue, the mass air flow sensor was the problem in my case.
Hi,

Can you please explain the symtoms you had ?

My symtoms are:

1 - in cold weather temp under 10 deg C, misfire sometimes the first 2 min. with rough idle only the first start in the day. Idle can be very little shakey until the engine is completley warm (about 15 min from start) , after that 100% perfect.

2 - temp above 10 deg C-> no problems at all!

My car is 2004 with N62 engine.

many thanks in advance!

George
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  #107  
Old 04-07-2011, 09:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hafrse View Post
Hi,

Can you please explain the symtoms you had ?

My symtoms are:

1 - in cold weather temp under 10 deg C, misfire sometimes the first 2 min. with rough idle only the first start in the day. Idle can be very little shakey until the engine is completley warm (about 15 min from start) , after that 100% perfect.

2 - temp above 10 deg C-> no problems at all!

My car is 2004 with N62 engine.

many thanks in advance!

George
Classic intermediate levers symptom. Are you getting the flashing service engine light?
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  #108  
Old 04-08-2011, 01:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CTSportX5 View Post
Classic intermediate levers symptom. Are you getting the flashing service engine light?
Hi,

YEs, I am getting misfire on different cylinders on the very first start of the car in the morning according to the error codes and sometimes the service engine light lights.
I am also getting a fault from the seconday air pump error code 2760 together with the misfire codes.

I have also heared that some has changed the intermediate levers but did not get rid of the fault.
Also, according to the TSB:
Important: The lower production range of the affected intermediate levers is only an approximation. It
is possible that levers produced prior to "04 180" (but not earlier then "03 363") may have certain

deviations in tolerances.
My car is manufactured in october 2003 which is earlear than 03(Year) 363 (day number).
And according to the TSB the fault should not be present after the cold start period 20 seconds, the fault in my car is present under the warming period of the engine (3-10 min) but degrades until reaching the 100% correct idle .

Thnaks
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  #109  
Old 04-09-2011, 03:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jhb View Post
Intersting post. I have been fighting this issue for 2 winters now.

I have a 2004 4.4. When the temp is somewhere between 13 and 27 degrees, the engine idles rough at start. If I start backing out of my space, at idle, the car bucks and shakes, and the CEL flashes. It usually stops and the CEL clears, or goes solid than clears in a a day.

The Levers have been replaced TWICE. The problem never cleared. To me, the CEL is a symptom, the problem is the idle, and I was searching for other cold start idle issues when I came across this.

The worse case was last January, when it was about 4 degrees out. I started the car and I swear, only 3 or 4 of the cylinders fired. CEL flashed, went solid, than flashed some more. The car had no power, but could drive. I drove it home for 2 reasons: 1, I was afraid to get stranded in such cold weather, and 2: it was CPO, so if it really broke, they would have something to fix!

I took it to the dealer the next day (it ran fine, but CEL was on) and the dealer told me the DME was "asking" to be reprogrammed. The issue disappeared with the warm months, and has now reappeared. I am taking it to the dealer again.

My CPO ends in May, but since all work has a 2 year warranty, I should be able to work with them until the issue is fixed.
Hi,

Is this issue fixed in you car ?

Thanks
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  #110  
Old 04-14-2011, 11:07 PM
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Well count me in on this club. Mine was diagnosed with this condition 2 weeks ago. I about choked on cost. $1,500 in labor, $3,500 in parts. My extended warranty company want's me to pay for the tear down of the engine to prove that the parts are bad...yikes. But it drives like crap now and I have no choice. AND the sunroof has now come loose on the right rear corner - so can't wait to see what that is going to cost to fix.
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