CV boot / axle replacement

[c4racer]

I have a split CV boot on my X5. I checked with a local indy shop and they normally just replace the entire axle rather than just the boot. They sell a Empi shaft for $250 and install is $215 which is just under 2 hours.

so I did some checking on-line and found I can get that same part for under $100 with shipping.

02 2002 BMW X5 Axle Assembly - Driveshaft & Axle - EMPI, FEQ, Front Right, Front Left, Rear - PartsGeek

Normally I just dig in my heels and do this stuff myself. Right now I am pretty busy with a motor swap on my wife's Mazda Protege5, so I was considering having a shop take care of it since the labor rate seemed reasonable. Also I may not have the right tool to separate the axle from the hub.

But I really don't feel too good about paying them $215 for the labor plus an extra $180 for the part. That is too much of a waste of good money for my taste.

Plus the shop is not convienent for me to get to and drop a car off.

So combining those two things, I guess I am talking myself into doing it myself.

Here is the axle the indy shop uses:
02 2002 BMW X5 Axle Assembly - Driveshaft & Axle - EMPI, FEQ, Front Right, Front Left, Rear - PartsGeek

That does seem much easier than dealing with a boot replacement, especially since the joint could fail at some point with over 100K miles on it.

Any thoughts?

Is the job that hard? If the shop is quoting under 2 hours of labor it can't be that bad.

What is the best way to separate the hub from the axle? Is there a tool I should go ahead and pick up while I'm at it?

[CharlieHustleX5]

IMO aftermarket axle shaft replacements are a hit and miss. You may or may not have a good experience with the axle. Sometimes the axle wont seat well into the differential, have a hard time mating the hub and outboard shaft, components may be inferior to OEM resulting in premature failure, or will cause vibration due to improper or no balancing done to the axle shaft assembly.

I switched out the boots @ around 70K due to small cuts in the rubber. The outboard looked fine and did not show any accelerated wear. As long as that unit is lubricated and sealed from the elements, it should last at least 140k miles??

Since the BMW axle tool is pricey to obtain, many who tackle this job use a HD 3 jaw puller, a hub puller that attaches to the brake rotor, mini 3lb sledge, 22mm socket, 36mm socket, 2x4 piece of wood, just to name a few. What I found to work the best was a KD tools HD hub puller.....I'd have to find the part number, but it made the job much less painful.

2 hours would be expected of a trained technician who's done the job a few times. I would save at the least 4 hours total time if you're fast and dont get sidetracked.

[c4racer]

Thanks - good input. Maybe I will just do the boot myself then.

Is this the hub puller you have?
Best Price Guarantee on KD Tools 2251 at ToolTopia.com

not cheap, is it?

This OTC one looks similar in design. I like the idea of attaching directly to the wheel studs - seems to me that is the right way to do it.

Amazon.com: OTC 7394 Universal Hub Puller: Home Improvement

4 hours doesn't scare me.

[01 BMW_X5]

I used aftermarket Advanced Auto($74.99) axles over 20K miles ago.
Had a hard time seating the shaft into transfer case like Charlie said, but once I figured out what I was doing wrong was a snap.
No vibration split boots, so far.
Had to remove recently to replace oil seal on transfer case.

Remove the complete axle shaft with hub and take to a shop to press out.
Should cost no more than $45.
YMMV, I paid $15/side.

[petener999]

Originally Posted by c4racer

Thanks - good input. Maybe I will just do the boot myself then.

Is this the hub puller you have?
Best Price Guarantee on KD Tools 2251 at ToolTopia.com

not cheap, is it?

This OTC one looks similar in design. I like the idea of attaching directly to the wheel studs - seems to me that is the right way to do it.

Amazon.com: OTC 7394 Universal Hub Puller: Home Improvement

4 hours doesn't scare me.

You should check with Kragen or Autozone for tools rental..

[c4racer]

Originally Posted by 01 BMW_X5

I used aftermarket Advanced Auto($74.99) axles over 20K miles ago.
Had a hard time seating the shaft into transfer case like Charlie said, but once I figured out what I was doing wrong was a snap.
No vibration split boots, so far.
Had to remove recently to replace oil seal on transfer case.

Remove the complete axle shaft with hub and take to a shop to press out.
Should cost no more than $45.
YMMV, I paid $15/side.

there's an idea. I have a few neighbors with presses that might work, otherwise know a few shops that could do it easily.

Well - I ordered the Empi boots from Autohous, so I'll probably just go that route. If not, I paid $28 for 2 outters and 1 inner and could always keep them for spares.

[Repoman]

I too replaced my whole axle assy (front right) with an aftermarket and have had any issues, has driven smoothly for a while now. I paid $87 for mine. You really shouldn't need any special BMW tool or even a 3 jaw puller. Since you are replacing the entire axle shaft assy as I did, all you need to do is get you a nice beefy punch and a beefier sledge. Center the punch on the axle indention and give it a few nice solid pops. The shaft will begin to move inward. A few more light taps later I was able to pull it inward out of the hub with just my hands. There is enough play at the u-joints and if you have unbolted the rear of the control arm for it to slide out. I wasn't worried about the damaging the axle because it was being replaced. I have a 3 jaw puller and originally got prepared to use it but I really did not want to dislodge the dust cap so after looking at it for a while I decided to use the sledge/punch method. Came apart easy as pie. I did use never-seize on the reinstall so that it would be easy to take apart on the next go round. Not a very difficult job but it can get a bit messy depending on the condition of your old boots. Good luck with it!

[CharlieHustleX5]

Originally Posted by c4racer

Thanks - good input. Maybe I will just do the boot myself then.

Is this the hub puller you have?
Best Price Guarantee on KD Tools 2251 at ToolTopia.com

not cheap, is it?

This OTC one looks similar in design. I like the idea of attaching directly to the wheel studs - seems to me that is the right way to do it.

Amazon.com: OTC 7394 Universal Hub Puller: Home Improvement

4 hours doesn't scare me.

Yes, thats the KD tools one I have. Was able to snatch one on ebay for a little under 65 bucks. There are similar hub pullers out there that can work for this job, and cost a bit less, but thats all preference.

The EMPI boots may be a bit oversized for the OEM axle, if Im remembering correctly. I personally used GKN boots which is identical to the OEM boot on the axleshaft right now.

Another option would be running to your local NAPA and picking up a remanufactured axle. I have heard a couple good things about the CARDONE axles from rockauto and Oreilleys. Those too are remans.

Aftermarket axles are a hit and miss for me. I've used them on my previous cars and have had good and bad experiences. I wont completely blame the manufacturer because the cars I installed them into were lowered significantly which can put added strain on the axle assembly. Regardless, I dont think it was necessary to have to change the same axle 3 times due to some manufacturer failure. I've had bad experiences, but it doesn't mean everyone else will share the same luck as I have.

[c4racer]

I borrowed one of these FWD hub pullers from AZ. Not sure if it will fit the BMW bolt pattern. We'll see about that...

AutoZone.com | In Our Stores | Loan-A-Tool Program | Pullers - Specialized

[mywidebody02]

you realize u dont want to pull out the hub. you can use an air hammer to get the shaft off the hub. if the cv joint is still good why not just replace the boot.