Replacing rear control arms

[jsoto]

On the X5, the rear upper CA is usually the culprit.

Not sure on the LCA or BJ, I was told my a BMW Mastertech - now branched off on his own, that they don't really go bad on the E53 platform.

I'll need to get mine up in the air, as I did a prelim on the rack, and the left rear camber could not be dialed in to spec

[Ricky Bobby]

Originally Posted by Doru

If you check the rear wheels with the air suspension on, the only wiggle you will get, is from the control arms. So you won't know if the rear ball joint is shot. usually the ball joint fails before the arms, but I am speculating here, because that happened on 2 of my BMW's. Maybe on other vehicles it's different?

Anyway, what you have to do is, with the vehicle lifted and secured, you take out the air supply held in place by a clip - it's in the rear hatch left & right below the plastic trays - very easy to access. You have to leave the air connection off, because the car will pump air all the time, even without the key in the ignition. Also, if you change stuff, it's much easier to work with "limb" suspension parts, as opposed to stiffened parts, due to the air bags pushing down hard on the control arms & wheel carrier.
I have the BMW tool (it's a press, which isn't fancy), and it's a very easy job to do with the right tools.

I changed the ball joints only about 2 weeks ago, because the rear could not be "adjusted/aligned" properly, and I would go through tires too often.
it took me about 45 min/side, but to change the ball joint only, once the car is up and you do the other stuff, the procedure to press out/in the balljoints is no more than 10 minutes.

Once you're done, you have to place the air hose (clip) back on, then lower the vehicle SLOWLY. Once the air compressor will start pumping harder, you will hear it humming. That's when you STOP lowering the car, and wait until the hum stops. Then you lower a bit more, and so on. If you let the car all the way to the ground, you can damage the air springs (bags).

Myself, I use Lemforder for all the suspension components on all my BMW's.

Hey Doru, my right rear is not able to be dialed into spec either (currently like -2.9 degrees) but my toe was able to be zero'ed out on both sides in the rear to hopefully save my tires, I'm suspecting the straight guide links are fine as the toe adjustment was ok, but I probably need to do the UCA (wishbone arms) and the ball joints in the rear.

I've heard horror stories about doing the rear ball joints with the carrier on the car (even with the special tool), what was your recommended method to get them done easily, what did you remove?

From what I see, you gotta let the air out of the bag on the side you're working on, take the wheel off, possibly the brakes (can you leave them in place?), disconnect the rear sway bar links, take out the HUGE long bolt that goes through the integral link and ball joint, then that should give enough slack to pull the wheel carrier down so you can remove the integral link and have access to the ball joint?

If you could give some tips I'd appreciate it, I have a local member who has the BMW special tool for removal/reinstall of the rear ball joints who I can borrow it from.

[Doru]

Originally Posted by DillonInCO

My car doesn't have air suspension so unfortunately most of this doesn't apply to me, but it sounds like a very simple job to replace the upper control arms---just unbolt the old part and bolt the new one in.

Right rear is creaking badly, indy shop told me rear upper control arm. I'd rather replace everything now though if there are other parts that fail. By ball joint, are you referring to part #2 in this diagram? The diagram is sort of hard to read. These BMW rear ends are a lot more complex than I'm used to

RealOEM.com * BMW E53 X5 3.0i REAR AXLE SUPPORT/WHEEL SUSPENSION

Yes, that is the one. Part #2.

[Doru]

Originally Posted by Ricky Bobby

Hey Doru, my right rear is not able to be dialed into spec either (currently like -2.9 degrees) but my toe was able to be zero'ed out on both sides in the rear to hopefully save my tires, I'm suspecting the straight guide links are fine as the toe adjustment was ok, but I probably need to do the UCA (wishbone arms) and the ball joints in the rear.

I've heard horror stories about doing the rear ball joints with the carrier on the car (even with the special tool), what was your recommended method to get them done easily, what did you remove?

From what I see, you gotta let the air out of the bag on the side you're working on, take the wheel off, possibly the brakes (can you leave them in place?), disconnect the rear sway bar links, take out the HUGE long bolt that goes through the integral link and ball joint, then that should give enough slack to pull the wheel carrier down so you can remove the integral link and have access to the ball joint?

If you could give some tips I'd appreciate it, I have a local member who has the BMW special tool for removal/reinstall of the rear ball joints who I can borrow it from.

Hi RickyBobby.

Take the plastic covers in the rear, pull the rubber cover to expose the air line. Once the car was lifted, here is the order I did:

1. Take wheel off
2. Unclip air line, and leave out on the side you work.
3. I followed this Bentley Publishers vid to a "T" - he did it in 15 min, I did it in 45 min/side (no lift):

BMW 5 Series (E39) 1997-2003 - Rear ball joint DIY, how to remove and install - YouTube

The hardest part is position back the wheel carrier. "IF" it seems you cannot place it back in order to insert the long bolt, you "could" unclip the air bag (it has a steel clip at the bottom) and push it aside. But in reality, it's not needed. Just be patient and make sure you position it correct, then adjust it with a long steel rod (thinner than the long bolt) - a screwdriver could work (that's what I used). Also, you should have the upper bolt of the integral link tightened loose (by hand), just to keep it in place. As you work on it, you will see how it goes in. A helper could be used for this part only.

There is absolutely NO NEED to take off anything else. No brakes, no swaybar links, nothing.

Once everything is back on and tight to spec, put the wheel on, put the air clip back on, then start lowering the car VERY SLOW. Once the wheel touches the ground, at some point, the compressor will start pumping air more vigorously. You will hear the hum. Stop there, until the hum stops, then lower a bit more. Just repeat this procedure, until the air bag is fully inflated to spec. It should take about 1 -2 minutes tops.

GL

P.S.: The integral link is probably the only part you have to remove - if this wasn't clear. But follow the Bentley vid sequence of removing the 2 bolts.

[Ricky Bobby]

Awesome man, thanks! I think those ball joints are more often the culprit than the upper control arms as far as getting the camber back into spec goes!

Did you notice the suspension a bit tighter after install?

[Doru]

Originally Posted by Ricky Bobby

Awesome man, thanks! I think those ball joints are more often the culprit than the upper control arms as far as getting the camber back into spec goes!

Did you notice the suspension a bit tighter after install?

I know when I went for an alignment early spring, the alignment guy who is a BMW specialist, pulled me in the bay and pulled/pushed with a prybar everywhere possible, to show me there is no play, but yet he still can't straighten the rear camber.
Once home (my bad, I should have checked this PRIOR to the alignment work), I raised the rear, then I took off the air connector, and surprise-surprise: both rear wheels could be moved by hand very easy in/out (not left/right - which would be your control arms). So this is a trick, Fmugur shared it with me. Even the BMW guys for a reason, don't know this. Once the ball joints were out, they have an axle, which moved very easy when I moved it with the fingers - pretty loose to say the least. The new ones were tight as a drum, and you can't move it with the fingers.
As far as "tight suspension" maybe a tad more planted, but definitely not the same difference as when you change an ubershot part. Maybe those ball joints just started to fail? I have seen much worse on other e53's or e39's (it's the same identical part for many BMW's, that's why I have that special tool), where the outer metal sleeve literally parted. That's when you could probably sense a huge improvement after replacement.
My only clue was the same verdict you had, that the camber can't be adjusted more than x.xx°, where everything "checks OK". So something must've started to fail.

[davintosh]

Originally Posted by DillonInCO

Bumping this thread because I need to replace my rear upper control arms as well and have the same question. Dealer wanted to sell me the value line kit, which I think they said was close to $400. Febi parts are $53.75 each from Pelican. There is also Lemfoerder which is about $100 a piece. I would pay that extra price for that if the quality is worth it, but I have to wonder how much of a difference there is. So, anyone still running Febi RUCAs? How have they held up?

Also, someone mentioned a DIY for replacement earlier in this thread, did that ever get done? Are there any good ones elsewhere? For some reason I'm having the hardest time finding service info online.

Replacing the control arms is pretty straightforward; like the others said, pretty much unbolt the old & bolt up the new. Some of it is hard to get to though, so it's a workout, especially if you're like me & don't have access to a lift.

Another couple of things you might consider replacing are the ball joint and integral link (#2 & 4 in the diagram below.) I replaced the whole works (along with the wheel bearings) on my X5 earlier this year, and it made a world of difference. I have a tool for removing/replacing the ball joint; I'd be happy to lend it out if you need it.

[Ricky Bobby]

Originally Posted by Doru

I know when I went for an alignment early spring, the alignment guy who is a BMW specialist, pulled me in the bay and pulled/pushed with a prybar everywhere possible, to show me there is no play, but yet he still can't straighten the rear camber.
Once home (my bad, I should have checked this PRIOR to the alignment work), I raised the rear, then I took off the air connector, and surprise-surprise: both rear wheels could be moved by hand very easy in/out (not left/right - which would be your control arms). So this is a trick, Fmugur shared it with me. Even the BMW guys for a reason, don't know this. Once the ball joints were out, they have an axle, which moved very easy when I moved it with the fingers - pretty loose to say the least. The new ones were tight as a drum, and you can't move it with the fingers.
As far as "tight suspension" maybe a tad more planted, but definitely not the same difference as when you change an ubershot part. Maybe those ball joints just started to fail? I have seen much worse on other e53's or e39's (it's the same identical part for many BMW's, that's why I have that special tool), where the outer metal sleeve literally parted. That's when you could probably sense a huge improvement after replacement.
My only clue was the same verdict you had, that the camber can't be adjusted more than x.xx°, where everything "checks OK". So something must've started to fail.

Yeah basically everything looked fine, but they told me the eccentrics on the lower swing arm were maxed out. So I'm leaning to the fact that the ball joint is loose on the opposite side of the arm. I'm sure there is something up on that right side though. Also going to pop the washer off the subframe bushing and see if the bushing is still intact (the bushings tend to get separated completely in the middle as you know), the car drives great now and I'm really glad that the toe is zeroed out to save my tires.

Now that my complete front suspension is fresh and tight again with fresh parts, I know in the springtime I'll want to do some work refreshing the rear, with the manual transmission and the wide 20's in the rear I know its harsh on that suspension, and at 10 years old some of the parts I'm sure are showing wear. When I go under the car to paint my calipers I'll give every bushing/balljoint a thorough look and see what is worn. You're right though, I watched the video again and those ball joints look easy, with the tool its a time/lifesaver. I would recommend using a stiff C-clamp on the swing arm to prop it open as opposed to Vice grips though, if those slip you could mar up something.

[Ricky Bobby]

Originally Posted by davintosh

Replacing the control arms is pretty straightforward; like the others said, pretty much unbolt the old & bolt up the new. Some of it is hard to get to though, so it's a workout, especially if you're like me & don't have access to a lift.

Another couple of things you might consider replacing are the ball joint and integral link (#2 & 4 in the diagram below.) I replaced the whole works (along with the wheel bearings) on my X5 earlier this year, and it made a world of difference. I have a tool for removing/replacing the ball joint; I'd be happy to lend it out if you need it.

DAVE! Hope all is well man. Next spring, I may be contacting you for the ball joint tool, most likely my integral links are fine at my mileage (just rolled 69k), and the guide links too, but I have a feeling I'll want to replace the ball joint and wishbone control arm in the rear, and possibly my subframe bushings if they are worn too.

The X drives great now however, it just bothers my OCD that one of the corners is unable to get camber into spec, lol! Hope I can get 9 months of driving without another alignment haha!

[DillonInCO]

Some awesome information in this thread, and great video, thanks for the link! Control arms, ball joints and integral links will be on their way soon

And, davintosh, thank you for the offer on the ball joint remover, but as I'm sure any standard ball joint removal tool will work (I imagine it doesn't need to be the BMW special tool) and I'm likely to be using it again, I think I'll just buy one.